what kind of upgrades can be done to a 95 xlt (600 tripple, single pipe). what kind of speed are they cappable of?? how are they compared to other 600's?? faster or slower. i have heard that they are very reliable.

thanks

There are a lot of performance upgrades for these sleds. I have a '95xcr 600, which has the exact same motor as yours. First thing to know is what kind of performance are you talking about? HP adders, Traction aides, handling...

There is two places that will make the most difference though, Clutching and gearing.

Gearing- go buy a 19 tooth top gear, very inexpensive and is the single best mod I have ever made. Get a new chain while your at it 66 pitch 11 wide. Your top speed will be lower, but the acceleration makes up for it 10 fold.

Clutching is tough and takes some dialing in but you can buy your own components and make it work fine, just get the highest rpm's at about 8200 no more. A higher engagement primary spring will give you more hole shot.

HP adders: there is a actually quite a few mods you can do, first is to check out startinglineproducts.com and go for the high compression heads. I have heard they are pretty good at making a little extra power.

If you still have the stock steel skis get yourself a set of composite skis, I personaly chose USI skis. Studs will ALWAYS add more tracktion. But they do lower you top speed, Not many people run top speed very often so this is a good mod. But in my oppinion, get a better taller lug track with studs, it is expensive but our tracks are pretty worthless in any powder. On the trail and lake (with studs) they rip pretty good because they are so light.

Thats quite a bit of info, and there is still more that is possible. One thing that I would stay away from is tripple pipes. They are known to cause problems.

rollinredcavi,

thanks for the info, that helps a lot. by anychance you don't have a clutch set up do you?? like what springs and weight to use??

Yeah I have a setup right now that I like but I will have to check all the specs on stuff. I know that I have the EPI black primary spring for higher engagement RPM's and the yellow secondary spring. I havnt really got the clutch dialed in yet, my rpm's are running a little to high if I put the throttle to the bars. I should be getting a progressive helix from EPI to try out, but its been like two weeks since I ordered it.

I am leaving right now to go work on the sled, I honestly forgot what weights I have in there. I switched them like 4 times last year so I cant remember what I stuck with. I will check them for you and post it.

thanks man

Ahh, I actually forgot to look at the weights. I am pretty sure they are 51 gram weights. You best bet is to just but the clutch springs that you want. If yourse have never been changed its about time to do it anyway. I would call Erlandson performance and ask them what springs to use for your sled, Just make sure to get the higher engagement primary spring which will give you a little bit more HP at the engament of the clutch. Keep the secondary spring the same for now, they a pretty cheap anyway. Then once you put them on you can adjust which hole to spring is in on the secondary to get the RPM's where they should but. If you loosen to secondary spring one hole is usually causes a 200 or so RPM drop. Raise it one and the opposite will happen. Just make sure to shoot for around 8200 rpms at full throttle. So if your sitting stopped, punch the throttle, if it goes above 8200 its not shifting soon enough to keep the rpm's down. Now if you adjust the secondary and you still cant get the rpm's where they should be, this is where you have to start playing with the weights. Heavier weights will bring the rpm's down. Trying to do you own clutching really is game of cat and mouse. If you change one thing it can cause other things to happen that you dont want, so then you have to change those. I tried all last year to get mine set up right and definatly got close but still have a little tinkering to do. I havnt spend any more than $100 buck on the clutching so far and it was well worth it. The only major problem I had after doing the clutching and dropping the top gear to 19 teeth, was tracktion. These 3/4 tracks dont grab to well. So I had to add studs.

All in all it was worth it. My 95 xcr 600 will now take my dads 600 HO rev out of the hole and keep him behind me for a little while. Thats pretty darn good for a sled with like 95 HP. But it does have to be on hard packed trails or I wont even come close.

I have a clutched 96 xlt special with a dayco max 1105 which is not a good enough belt for the power that this sled puts out and most of the time when I take off slow I smell burnt rubber. I have a max 2 for a spare and I just ordered a ultimax 3 that I am going to put on, but I don't want to burn it up if there is something wrong. Is the burn't rubber smell normal?

Thanks

I have a clutched 96 xlt special with a dayco max 1105 which is not a good enough belt for the power that this sled puts out and most of the time when I take off slow I smell burnt rubber. I have a max 2 for a spare and I just ordered a ultimax 3 that I am going to put on, but I don't want to burn it up if there is something wrong. Is the burn't rubber smell normal?

Thanks
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No, burnt rubber is not normal. It is a sign that you are slipping at engagement. If you look at your primary, there is probably a ring of rubber stuck to the sheaves where it engages. Your belt guard and belly pan are probably also showing rubber residue I would bet. You need more belt squeeze at engagement so it doesn't slip. Either that or the rubber compound is simply too soft, but I would look into it further and sort it out before destroying a new belt because of it.

I have a clutched 96 xlt special with a dayco max 1105 which is not a good enough belt for the power that this sled puts out and most of the time when I take off slow I smell burnt rubber. I have a max 2 for a spare and I just ordered a ultimax 3 that I am going to put on, but I don't want to burn it up if there is something wrong. Is the burn't rubber smell normal?

Thanks
[/b]

Have you checked your belt deflection lately. You may have the belt to tight. Also check your clutch alignment. Even with a crappy belt, there is no reason to smell burnt rubber.

If you don't feel like buying individual components for your clutching I would highly suggest a Hot Seat Performance Hyper shift kit. I have one in my XCR and it works great. Best $200 bucks you'll ever spend. This way you don't have to fool around buying individual parts and testing to make your own, the work has already been done for you.

what kind of upgrades can be done to a 95 xlt (600 tripple, single pipe). what kind of speed are they cappable of?? how are they compared to other 600's?? faster or slower. i have heard that they are very reliable.

thanks
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I always say if you are asking on the internet how to get your sled to go faster, you are better off leaving it alone, and buying a bigger sled. I hear soooo many horror stories of novice guys modding thier sleds, and realizing after spending $500, their sled ended up being slower that when they started. Sorry for the negitivety, but older Polaris' start to loose a lot of relibility when you heavily mod them (like granading chaincases, and twisting cranks). The only way to get the XLT's to go faster, is to clutch them to engage at 5500 rpm's and wind them to 8900 rpm's full shift out. This is what you can expect from most all 580/600 clutch kits.

Have you checked your belt deflection lately. You may have the belt to tight. Also check your clutch alignment. Even with a crappy belt, there is no reason to smell burnt rubber.
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What is belt deflection? and how do I check it.

Also, I park my sled under my deck on concrete, and I have to take of and then go up onto the snow because where I park there isn't any snow, ok. Now, can take off just fine but if I stop right befor the snow and try to take off, I can rev it to like 65 or 7 grand and the track won't turn. I don't have a clue what is going on. This will also occationally happen if I stop in a snow bank and then try to take off. Once I am moving it will go just fine and shift up fine and everything, but taking off is strange sometimes.

I think I am going to clean my sheaves off and lube my primary. Can I use carb cleaner on the sheaves? The previous owner told me that it was clutched and it revs to maybe 5000 or so rpm when I take off normal.

As a side note, I have reverse on it and I can turn the secondary back and forth about 45 degrees, I always assumed that it was just slop in the fwd to reverse cog, does anyone know if this is normal or not?

Eric

P.S.- Sorry to threadjack.