I found one post from 2003 that mentioned the brake switch but that wasn't the problem being discussed. Here's the deal:
tail light works normal
brake light does not light
i replaced the bulb first- didn't work
tested continuity underseat plug to taillight socket- red, yellow, brown- ok
(with bulb in socket- continuity btween red, yellow, & brn all combos on plug....this didn't make sense but no continuity with bulb out and same with both bulbs)
tested continuity from other side of underseat plug to plug by handlebars- ok
tested continuity from plug by handlebars (steering post) to brake light switch- ok
Now this will be tough to describe:the brake handle (master cylinder?)has a socket where a plastic piece clicks in. This piece has a little rubber grommet in the bottom where a metal plunger resides. The Metal plunger has a little plastic sleeve on the smaller end toward the wire side. Then the wire clips over the middle plastic sleeve and the plunger slips through the wire. (still with me? hey....wake up!) The wire itself has two contacts. It appears connecting these two contacts completes the circuit and turns the brake light on.
whew.....if you even have half an idea what I'm talking about I'd be amazed....
Here's the brown's diagram:here (http://www.brownsleisureworld.com/frame.cgi?url=http%3A//www.brownsleisureworld.com/Parts/SNOWMOBILE/)

I'm talking about the piece between #17 and #11

The sleve that plunger rides in was cracked. Could that cause the malfunction? it didn't look like it would affect anything but what do I know? Also, I broke that litle plastic sleeve that rides on the plunger so I ordered a new part number 17 which includes the plunger piece.


Anyone have this happen? Anyone ever replace the brake switch? Anyone still awake after reading that?

Any thougths on this are GREATLY appreciated.

without even looking at the diagram,,, if your bulb works and still worked when you changed it to the new one, but your brake dont work, then its probably in your switch or in the wiring from your switch.

You could always take the bulb and put it in a buddies sled to verify 100% that you dont have a bad NEW bulb. I have seen weirder things happen.

I’ve been an electrician for 15 years and you got me all confused. :dazed: But if I understand what your getting at, I may be able to help a little. First it sounds like (from what you said) the trouble seems to be centered around that switch. Which should be in the brake lever. That plunger your referring to sounds like ether an barrow connector or a scotch lock. They are used for splice purposes only. it kinda sounds like you may have done this but take the wires from the engine side (stator, magneto, battery if it has one) and connect them to the tail light side , bypassing the switch. If she lights, get a new switch. If that is not the problem the next thing I would think is ground! A bad ground can cause all kinda funky problems with a low voltage system. I don’t know which wire that is on your sled but if I had to guess I’d say brown?? Another common thing you could check is all your plug ends! The pins do get corroded . And like puree said, try another bulb or sled just to be safe. Hope this helps.

Actually that was pretty dumb of me NOT to try bypassing the switch. I knew another set of "eyes" on it would help! Thanks guys....i'm not usually that dumb....
http://96lt4.com/smileys/sma7.gif

SWRules

You can always take an your 10 dollar ohm meter and check any bulb.

Set the ohm meter to ohms, and touch the wires. You should get a straight connection and a full reading on the ohm meter.

Now touch one end on the ground of the bulb (metal base, and the other to each of the lead terminals. If you get a full reading the circuit is made and the filiment is good. If no reading the bulb is bad.

If you have a good bulb and you are CERTAIN, that the socket is not corroded up, then you do a process of elimination by finding 12 volts from in front of the switch, and then all along the route to the tail light.

Step by step you should find 12 volts. When you don't you have a broken wire, or a bad junction. Clean or replace it and your back in business.

101 electrics class.....class dismissed, quiz on Friday.

well he knows the filiment is good as the taillight worked,,, but does that work for the brake light?? I am not 100% positive on how that works. Are there 2 filiments in the bulb, or is there more voltage sent to the buld when the brake lever is pushed (via the brake plunger) that causes the buld to light up brighter??

well he knows the filiment is good as the taillight worked,,, but does that work for the brake light?? I am not 100% positive on how that works. Are there 2 filiments in the bulb, or is there more voltage sent to the buld when the brake lever is pushed (via the brake plunger) that causes the buld to light up brighter??
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Not more voltage, but bigger winding ( filament inside the bulb.) If the brake and tail is one bulb you will have two filaments, if there is two bulbs, they should have one filament each. in an duel filament bulb they use a smaller winding for the tail, and larger for the brake. Winding size = wattage intensity. bulb class 101 class dismissed quiz on monday :lmao:

ok, but my point was, are the windings inside the bulb where they can BOTH be tested seperately?? or when you put the meter on it,,,, if one is good and one is bad will the bulb still test good because you are getting continuity through the good filiment??

I WANNA BE READY FOR THAT QUIZ ON MONDAY!!!! LOL

Had the same problem on mine. Turned out to be a defective brake switch.

It's definitely the switch. I got the brake light to light by contacting the two prongs inside the wire (up by the handlebars.) I'll be installing the part tonight. Seems like a dumb design to me. Why not just some sort of momentary contact switch. That would have much more positive engagement than this little plunger thingy.

After writing my above posts I went out to the garage and took a look at my t660 turbo and my 440 snopro. Both sleds have micro switches as part of the brake lever. You can hear it click when you press the lever. Your plunger is probably a variation of this switch. If not, AC must have changed things . Mine is an normally open switch. Three things that go wrong with theses switches are 1) the return spring wares out, 2) the contacts get corroded or dirty, 3) the contacts and the make/break mechanism wares out. They are usually so cheep, its easer to replace rather than try to repair. Glad you found the problem. No brake light can suck on the trail, especially at night!!! Oh ya and your from Erie so you probably ride W.N.Y. And with my luck Ill be the one who rear ends the sled with no tail light LOL...