I just put reverse in my sled, shop manual says to use GL3 #75 or #80, I assume that means wieght. I put in Quakerstate synthectic 75-90 wt., which is a GL5 rating which is a higher rating. *I called Yamaha about parts and ask the tech what his thoughts where and wasn't very helpful, said as long as its good in freezing temperature. It says on the bottle "good to subzero temperature" What are you running?

I highly recomend Amsoil chaincase lubricant. Compare it too other brands and you can clearly see the difference.

permafrost, could you possibly give me a comparison of the amsoil synthetic to ski-doo synthetic? *ski-doo syn. chaincase oil is all I have used and just figured synthetic was synthetic. *I have never had any problems with ski-doo syn. chaincase oil.

NP 2tone800x This summer on one of those 35 degree hellish days i took some doo syn chaincase oil and the amsoil and put them in 2 different containers. The amsoil was clear and moved around like water. The Doo syn was yellowish and slowly poured sort of like honey. The amsoil costs me $6CAN/change compared too $16 /chng. That way i can change the chaincase oil *twice a year while saving money and having clean oil in the chaincase. I would also make the claim that it is less power robbing by offering less resistance.There is no need to let the chaincase rob anymore power than it alreadys does.

Thanks permafrost, I too have noticed ski-doo's chaincase oil pours like syrup. *This fall when I change the oil I will get amsoil. *I am not aware of anyone who sells it in my area, so I may have to do some looking to find it.

I've been running polaris synthetic chaincase oil in my Doo's, Polaris syn, chaincase oil is $4.00 a quart U.S., the Ski Doo marketing boys want $14.00 U.S. for 16 oz!!!......they must be smoking something??? *and I've checked all over for a better price..... *
I'm hearing more and more good comments on amsoil products, I'm considering switching to them this season....
DooZ.... *http://www.snowmobileworld-s2.com/forums/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif

I started using maxima products last year, *like all there products.

Well #### I've been using auto trans fluid for years with no problems.

* *Auggie

Augie - I too have been using ATF for a long time. Actually Mopar ATF4.

i have been running mobil 1 synthetic 75-90 gear oil for a number of years in my sleds with no problems. i have a couple of buddies that mix regular gear oil with atf with no problems....mike

It is only a chaincase, nothing near the complexity of an automatic car tranny. So any lube will work as long as it has a low pour temp: ie,-40 <. But as in ,you can put ATF in your power steering in a car for a subsitute, I would not. Unless it is an old junker. *I&#39;ll stick to the recomended fluid. At $6CAN /chng. It is worth it for my sled, which cost me thousands http://www.snowmobileworld-s2.com/forums/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif

I&#39;ve been using Amsoil synthetic for several seasons now, its priced reasonable and works great making it affordable to change the oil several times a season. To me it seems like cheap insurance against a chaincase failure. Rick.

permafrost - My logic for using the ATF is like this. If Ford, GM, Chrysler use the same fluid in the transfer-case of their 4x4 vehicles, it should be good enough for a sled.

The TCases are the same thing inside, a link belt chain over 2 gears. I figure if it is good enough for a loaded 10,000 lb truck with 500+ ft. lbs. is is good enough for my 750 lb 100ft. lb. sled!

Good point.

But I still tend to baby my toys more than my vehicles, so I run amsoil.

Warranty is the big reason for me as if the dealer gets wind of ATF in my chaincase I dont know what he would say.

Good point on the transfer cases as i run Amsoil ATF+4 in the NP 241 in the Dodge.

My bearings went out during one of my trips to the UP. *Had a mechanic replace them at the "Shell station" in Paradise. *Obviously during the replacement, he emptied and refilled the chain case. *He showed me some deposits inside and asked me what type of oil I replaced. *I told him I was unsure, but I was fairly certain it was A/C chaincase oil. *He said the deposits were due to the mixing of synthetic and non-synthetic oil. *And stated if you mix the two you&#39;ll end up getting these goopy deposits. *Need to be careful to get rid off all the old oil if you change types. *

I&#39;m not sure of the validity of those statements as far as confirming them. *Has anyone seen these things happen with their chaincase. *BTW: I forgot to find out if he put "synthetic" or "non-synthetic" oil in there after hearing the story. *

I had replaced the chain oil at 4,000 miles when I replaced the chain itself with a new one (just for routine maintainance/safety reasons). *The bearings were replaced at 5500 miles. *(About the same time as the hyfax.) *This was on a 2000 ZR600.

Greg

Actually, now that you mention it, when I put syn in my chain case last year, I started getting a black goo (for lack of a better term) sticking to the top of the dip stick.

The first few times I checked it, I had to wipe the stick clean. *Since then, there is very little. *I wonder if thats some kind of incompatability with the old oil?

I use Klotz.

I use Klotz as well, how often do you guys change your chaincase oil?

When a sled is new (or new chain and gears) it should be done at a 10 hr check up. After that I do mine once a year.

I had been using the Klotz chaincase oil, but found out the Amsoil lube has a lower pour point. I don&#39;t have the specs handy, but I think the Klotz spec is -25*F

I have routinely added Skidoo chaincase oil to my sleds, nothing else. *I have however noticed that over time there is an accumulation of black gunk, which I assumed was metal filings from the chain wearing over time. *I have friends that use atf and don&#39;t have this accumulation and I have heard that if I use "Energy Release" additive that I won&#39;t have any. *Sounds possible since I&#39;m pretty sure that all it is, is some sort of slip modifiers in a bottle. *I have emptied my chaincases several times to change gears and have seen this gunk each time, maybe I&#39;ll have to switch to atf. *No gunk must mean no chain wear hmmmmm?

I don&#39;t know what is going on w/ the &#39;doo chains/gears or oil. You can change the oil, clean everything, then ride around the block & the magnet is covered w/ filings. I noticed this w/ my &#39;98 MXZ 500 & now my &#39;01 MXZ 600. My &#39;95 440 & &#39;90 Mach 1 never created as much in the way of filings as my last 2 sleds.

Anybody else notice this?

*I&#39;m going to try some Lucas Oil products. I played with some gears last weekend that were bathed in different oils and the Lucas ones really moved smoother. And the stuff isn&#39;t bad. i spoke with some one about his thoughts and he said that in his 600HP 502 chevy he gained oil pressure at idle. Said that he&#39;d lose oil pressure at idle before but now never goes under 20psi. I think that it&#39;ll make a diffence in the Chain case. Less rotating friction means more track HP. http://www.snowmobileworld-s2.com/forums/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif
Caleb

Good point MXZ800 about atf in transfer cases. I am probably over reacting, but I just spent $600 on the reverse kit and don&#39;t want to smoke it the first time out. This thing has got ildler gears on the jack shaft with really small needle bearings. My concern was maybe the 75/90 wieght oil was too thick to get into the needle bearings to get lubed. But it will be fine. Thanks for all the input.