So on both my current sleds, if I don't run the track extremely tight I will get ratcheting under certain conditions. Most likely to cause it will be accelerating after a bump while climbing a hill. It isn't just skipping one tooth...feels like four to six. Currently the inner lugs on these tracks are still in excellent condition. No, I won't upgrade to anti-ratchet drivers because that's way out of my budget and too much work for me. I just want to tune it as good as possible as-is.

So the question is...is any amount of ratcheting acceptable? I know it can damage your inner lugs, but I thought that running the track too tight could damage the track and wear the hyfax as well. I do know the "service manual" procedure for measuring and setting proper track tension, but running them at "proper" tension or even slightly tighter still allows this ratcheting and it really bothers me. I envision inner lugs being torn off by the dozen. Hasn't happened yet, but could it?

As you can probably guess, if I run it tight enough that it never ratchets at all, it's so tight that I get a noisy track and I assume the hyfax must be getting worn out too fast, and I know it must also be dropping my effective power due to extra friction. I weigh over 220 pounds, so I understand that I'm really loading up these aged suspensions over the bumps (Springs are already set to maximum preload on both sleds). My wife, at 115 pounds, has never had this problem on the same sleds, but she's not as aggressive a rider either.

Any thoughts on this subject? Basically, should I allow minimal ratcheting or should I over-tighten the track? What are the true trade-offs? I assume that if there was an easy answer here I wouldn't have to ask, but I can hope...

A lot of what you describe depends on factors such as track condition, number of studs your running and condition of your skid. The ratcheting of the track is a good indicator of a imminant failure if not put in check. I worked on a '05 Mach Z with the same issues untill the operator tore a few drive lugs off the track. Yes he was a big guy (275 lbs) and he did go crazy on the Woodys (220) but the worst mistake he made was to spray tire dressing on the track for summer storage. This alone cause the original ratcheting issues. I've also seen leaking chaincase and speedo bearing being over lubed cause track deterioration. That added with the 25 Lbs of studs can be a real problem. The cure on this particular machine was a 1.5 Camoplast Grizzly with grooved cleats and integral cone spikes. We did however install extrovert drivers to allow the track to be run loose. The change was night and day. The next mod will be the drill some 1 1/4 inch holes between the ribs to exhaust snow build up on powder and mountain passes.

Well let me leave the Yamaha out of this because I adjusted it and it seems good now...haven't owned it long enough to say for sure. The EXT is what really brought up the question as I have incrementally tightened this track throughout the year but the ratcheting still won't quite go away. There are no studs in it...I don't think anybody studs their tracks here in Oregon. Last time out there was no ratcheting - and I tried - but I wasn't able to stress it they same way I described originally. When I say I got ratcheting while accelerating after bumps, I'm talking about full throttle in powder, getting some air and bottoming out the suspension for sure, and then continuing to accelerate up the hill.

It sounds like the short answer to my questions is, no, you don't want any ratcheting under any circumstances. Is that right? So with an old sled that I only paid a few hundred for and don't intend to put any money into, I should probably run it tight and keep an eye on the hyfax?

This does bring up a related question. I set my track tension while the sleds are sitting cold on the trailer. Is that maybe the problem? It would make sense that the track stretches and gets a little looser (more pliable) as you ride it. I don't know if this is the original 16 year old track but it's definitely old. Is it possible that I'm actually setting the tension too low? The track isn't noisy the way it is so maybe another half turn on the tensioner screws is in order? The alignment is absolutely perfect.

Supension geometry plays into it also. Track tension can tighten and loosen at difffernt points in the front and rear arm travel. You really notice this on uncoupled skids and skids that have been relocated, extended or arm location have been modified.

Situation you decribe climbing at full throttle then having compression of the rear arm and getting some ratcheting. Think we've all experienced this from time to time on certain sleds in certain snow conditions. Usually what is happening is the front arm is extended while the rear arm is compressed, this loosens the track. Tightening the track can help to point. Pulling the front strap up can help, as can running the rear springs tighter, also if you have a coupling device like transfer rods running them tighter. Next time you set your track tension at home, take all the slack out of the front strap while you or someone that weighs as much sits on the sled. Then support the rear of the sled and set you tension. If need be loosen the strap back to tune to your liking.

just do yourself a favor and install some anti rachet drivers....buy a set of ski-doo drivers they are cheap and well proven, if Mike Napp uses them in his yamaha on the tar, then they must be decent. they run about $50US each at your local doo dealer, they come in 1 1/16" size for your yamaha, or if your really pushing some serious HP you can press on som 1" diameter drivers. here are the parts #

8 tooth #504152552
9 tooth #504152503
10 tooth #504152502

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/6289/dooextrovertdj5.jpg

just do yourself a favor and install some anti rachet drivers....buy a set of ski-doo drivers they are cheap and well proven, if Mike Napp uses them in his yamaha on the tar, then they must be decent. they run about $50US each at your local doo dealer, they come in 1 1/16" size for your yamaha, or if your really pushing some serious HP you can press on som 1" diameter drivers. here are the parts #

8 tooth #504152552
9 tooth #504152503
10 tooth #504152502

http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/6289/dooextrovertdj5.jpg
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got an 06 nytro, i cannot get it to stop racheting, i tried all the adjustmets possible. the next step is to get the anti racheting drive wheels, but will they work with the camoplast ripsaw? the windows in the track are not equaly spaced apart. have the same problem with my 99 sx

all windows must be cut to use any anti rachet drivers these included!