Ok...As you all know a RMK with X-10 doesn't really lift the skis as easy as a RMK with X-Lite..So. Having a 99 I want to do something to my X-10 to get it to raise thse skis sky high. Problem is, I don't know what to do. I've tried removing the coupling blocks and loosening up the limiter straps: MADE NO DIFFERENCE WHAT SO EVER! Help me out here! Do I really have to change to a X-Lite to get the sled to perform as I want it to? Are the mounting holes for the X-Lite and X-10 the same? I'm guessing "not" but hoping "yeah!"

Set your front limiter strap loose, and front spring firm. Set the rear strap as tight as you can, with the rear spring as loose as possible. If that doesn't do it, you need more horsepower.

You will loose your approch angle if you try to transfer too much weight to the front of the track. If you want to travel in deep snow I suggest you keep the front pressure light.

If your not running in deep powder and you want to lift the skis, you will have to change to front shock location. I believe yours came stock in the upper mounting point. You will have to change to the lower point. But then again, you will loose track angle which is needed to travel deep snow. This will be more of a hard packed/lake setup, which is not what the RMK was designed for.

Just my 2 cents

So it's preferred to get no weight transfer at all the? I find that hard to believe. If that was true, Pol really made a BIG mistake when they changed from the X-10 to the X.Lite: The Lite is only front to rear coupled and the X-10 is a fully coupled slide. Ok, so the manufacturers aren't always doing the right thing I admit, but most mountain slides are in fact front to rear and not fully coupled allowing weight transfer. Ok, so they changed 'cause the X-10 is heavy - that still doesn't explain why they went from fully coupled (no or little weight trans) to front to rear (much more weight transfer). Yes I agree, initially you will loose som track angle but you also get the sled to raise up out of the deep initially and therby making it easier to "steer" in the deep.

Take the limiter straps out, or lengthen till there is plenty of slack. Take it for a spin, I believe it will tail walk all over the place. Then start sucking up the limiter till you have the lift you desire. I don't know what RMK you have, but with the blocks out and the limiters loose, a fan cooled will stand up.

I have a '99 RMK 6-hun. Would it also help if I moved the shock to the lower position?

Lowering the shock position will give more front track pressure, which is needed to lighten the front end.

Also, you can move the RRSS to the lower back hole and put it to the lowest setting. (or just remove it completely)

Mad,
That's what I was thinking too. Set the front straps long, then pull the back stops right off. VIOLA! No more coupling! And I would think if he were getting any traction at all, he won't have a problem getting a little air under his skis...

Xtra-10s are a riot to run like this, with a little caution (corners can be interesting when your skis are in the air!) at first, and very easy return to stock if necessary.

Bought a &#39;00 700 SKS this weekend for a back up sled (potential for triple implant in the back of my mind<g>), can&#39;t wait to try this exact setup.

Al

the edge is the same way. if you remove the RRSS stops, the skis come up in the air if you even look at the throttle, and then they don&#39;t come down until 70 mph or so. I did this to my sled for some lake riding and let me tell ya, it was a blast. I know that that much weight transfer isnt what you want for a hole shot, but let me tell ya, chicks dig guys doin wheelies :D. I dont think I would ever do it for trail riding, though. the front end was too easy to pick up, and I am a little throttle heavy for that.