With your setup you can go down as low as 19:47 in the mountains.
The 04 800 Gade w/10 tooth driver had gear range of 19,21,22,23,26 top and 43,45 bottom.
What gear ratio do you have?
Know that when going from 10 th to 9 th you are lowering the gear ratio 11%.
Or...if you want an economical avenue to have something with all the work done already...
http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=82438 :)
Here is a post I did on a few other snowmobile forums.
:ride: <div class='quotetop'>QUOTEwas on clickers 3 with x pin wt. Worked the clickers to 6 which was constant improvement but still off.
Dropped flywt, set clickers to 3: Same problem! Worked clickers up to 5 but not any better. Soggy response.
Did not want to back shift. Seemed to pull good when I got the rpms up to 8000 but getting there was a problem.[/b]
If you get rpms that are difficult to recover when grabbing the fuel trigger...
Test and pick the clicker you like the best...
Look at helix finish angle, what is it?....
Leave every other clutching detail alone and only lower finish angle on helix.
Primary is pushing too hard for the helix angle that is being utilzed at that moment/speed for the condition you are driving in.
So you think to yourself:
"Darn, but the sled is getting mushy here" You continue to think "clicker?...too much pinweight?"
Consider:
"What position is the button on the helix?"
"What angle am I utilizing at this moment"
"Could I use a larger helix angle right now or a lower angle at this point/speed which my sled feels like a dog at?"
To improve recovery rpms, make the secondary resist the push from the primary by "stalling" the shift. The shift is stalled, you let the engine pick up again. This is especially noticable when the exh pipe is hot.
Chew on Theory:
*Large angles produce great upshift/smaller angles produce great backshift.
*Large angles produce low belt clamp forces/smaller angles produce increased belt clamp forces.
*Belt slip = heat production
Knowing those 3 details could you not think you would want to apply a "required angle" for the speed or shift ratio the sled is at? A more required angle to provide an engine rpm that follows your thumbtip?
A little tidbit from the inertia dyno at ECP in CT.
02~05 800 Doo's. The hotter the exhaust pipe gets on continuous pulls/testing the more lbs torque the engine loses between 4700~7450 rpms however for a gain in peak hp. The hotter the exhaust pipe gets if you were to see the torque curve on a graph, the curve shifts to the right towards higher rpms making larger peak hp gain but for a loss of torque in the midrange rpms.
Do a dyno run with ice cold rags on the pipe the peak hp is a disaster but the torque 500 rpms below known peak is monster.
The events in the snow; You let off the throttle, the rpms come down to say 5000+. With a exhaust pipe that is hotter than previous runs, the torque may be down 4~5 lbs less than a cooler pipe and with too large of a helix angle at that point, you would require a smaller angle to keep the engine up and maintain proper rpms. With the torque loss you grab the throttle again and the engine should accelerate from that 5000 rpms to 7850 rpms?......no, you find the engine could only accelerate from 5000 to say 7000?....7200? OR if and when the engine gets to 7850 it took a long time to get to peak rpms.
You find the responce is very slow, the engine labors back to peak rpms, if...it...can...get...there.
To prove this...
If you were to turn around and go back to the start position, let the pipe cool off, the repeat the exercise with letting off the throttle at the same point along the run then get back on the throttle again....You'll find the engine will be more responsive.
The first thing to do is when you see this event you mention regarding "soggy response".....stop, pop the hood and check the secondary temperature, compare to primary temperature. Measure on sheave faces.
The temperature is the clutch telling the tuner that the system is not being efficient. The warmer temperature is a result of the belt slipping through the secondary sheaves.
The non-destructive testing portion of my job, I have to take temp readings on industrial motors. I used a laser temp gun to measure. I went around and so called "calibrated" my hand touch in "seconds" to the motor temps.
The other two guys in my job use the touch method also and find it quite accurate.
Touching hand on metal:
130 deg F = 5 seconds or more
140 deg F = 4 seconds to "ouch"
150 deg F = 2 seconds to "ouch"
160 deg F = 1 second to BLISTER!
If you have hot clutches then there is belt slip. Why belt slip? Lack of spring force or lack of a "more required" Lower-helix angle to provide improved clamp; missing out on improved backshift and engine responce.[/b][/quote]
SWRules