I just bought a 1994 Arctic Cat prowler and the guy ( sold it for his son )said the the machine runs but there might be a problem with the EFI. It had no battery so I couldn't try it. I got it home changed the plugs, topped up the coolant, installed new battery. I noticed that the positive connector was unpluged. When I hook up the battery you could hear the fuel pump kick in and the battery light came on. Both the key and the kill switch were off at the time. Not knowing anything about EFI, turned the key and started the machine. It seems to run fine idle a little high I think 3500 rpms. Any ways I go to shut it off and can't the key or kill switch don't work. So I had to unplug the battery. I tested the key switch works ok but I'm getting ground from both connectors.I unpluged the ECU same problem. Any ideas???

I would say you have a wire shorted out somewhere letting the ground flow through whether the key or kill switch is in the on or off position. I remember seeing a zr600efi that did that once and that was the problem,,, I would assume he was pulling the plug wires to kill it,,, start looking at your wiring and see what you come up with first.

The high idle is most likely the intake rubber flanges! They get a hair line crack right at the clamps!
Your in Minden... you should ask at North Shore about the running on. Sounds to me like a wiring issue!

I had this prob. with my sled once after a sloppy coolant fill. Check that the connectors from the stator and cdi are clean and dry.

Well I took off the seat and traced the wiring harness. Found a old mouse nest in the wires. Two wires were melted together another skinned altogether in a WET nest.
I cleaned out the nest dried off the wiring harness and fixed the wires.
Now it runs and shuts off !

But it's hard to start when it's cold you need to play with the gas.It still idles at about 3500 rpms,. When you go to give it gas it bogs at the at first but then seems to be find above 4500.

If you let it idle for a minute and give it gas it die's only when it's warm. When I check the plugs one is fine and one is wet . I noticed on that same side that the exhaust leaks at the manifold. I think it justs needs a gasket. I'm new to EFI not sure were to go next, could the exhaust leak cause a plug to foul and hard to start?.
Thanks Paul

PS the plugs seem to be fine if you keep the rpms up no fouling

If it is the cracked intake boots (between the throttlebodies and the reeds) as mentioned above replace them asap. They can let air in and it runs too lean and can burn down the motor. Luckily I've never done that. One way I've heard to check them is to use a propane torch (NOT LIT!!!!) and run the nonlit propane around that area. If the RPMs go up they are definily shot.
(This trick works on cars for chasing a vacume leak too.)

EDIT: I should clarify to do this while the engine is running

[I will try it tomorrow
Thanks

Well I think I got it figured out. I cleaned most of the connectors and checked the ignition switch it was faulty could not get a clean reading on the meter. I bypassed
the switch and the machine started right up and runs smoother. It still seems to idle
high but could just need a good run as it sat for awhile. I'm hoping to go for a ride this weekend up north they got 6 inch.
Thanks for all the ideas

For your idleing did you try to adjust it. there is usually a screw on each carborator with a spring on it. Maybe ther is one on your throttle boddies im not sure.

on efi there is only one idle screw.should odle around 1000 rpms or maybe a little higher. 3500 is to high. clutch should kick in around 4000 to 4500.if it's stock.as far as a bog.older efi's seem to have some.if it sat for some time you clutches may need cleaned.