I have been trying to get secondary clutch off .It must be rusted on .Tried putting penetrating oil on and let it soak.Still wont come off.

I have been trying to get secondary clutch off .It must be rusted on .Tried putting penetrating oil on and let it soak.Still wont come off.
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Been there done this many times. Use good quality penetrating oil (pb Blast_ keep working at it might take a few days. Rock it back and forth and in and out. The key way loves to seize on these. When you do get in off reinstall with a light coat of anti-seize(light coat!)

they can be a real bear at times but they will come off if you are persistent.

time for a clutch puller .3 jaw type

is there a special puller to use to take it off, i have a nice big set of 3 jaw pullers but i cannot fit them insde the belly pan. Would i be able to make up a tool to do this?

I am sure there is an arctic cat factory tool, but it may just be a three jaw puller.

If the sled is still runable then try this.
Get the track off the ground, soak the shaft w/ good penetrating oil (pj1 or pb blaster are the best IMO) and run it out and then apply the brake a few times. This shock load will help loosen the driven. Or, if you have snow, then just ride it for a bit to work the secondary back and forth a bit. I never have a problem removing them during the season, it is always seems to be pre season maintenance time where they are really stuck.

If not, you can probably just remove the belly pan rear bolts (above the foot well) and flex the belly pan enough to get a small three jaw puller on it.

Good luck

well this is getting abosolutly ridiculous, i finally broke down and went and bought a puller made for taking it off and the puller breaks on me after i get the clutch moved about an inch! i dont understand why its so tight. i didnt cross the threads either and it still pulled the threads through the puller JEEZE. so now i cant ride the sled at all until i can get it off or hammer it back on. im going straight to royal distributing and telling them exactly what i think about their 60 dollar puller! anyone else have any ideas as to how to get this off?

got a pic of this puller you are using ?

btw if there is room now see if you can get the key out so you can spin it (hopefully off ) by hand

http://www.receng.com/catalog/725-182.jpg

there is the puller im using, the threads on the bolt are stripped now, so i guess ill have to rechase it or find a bolt the same size but hardened. i just wish they wouldnt make things so cheap these days

Go to your Home Hardware store and pick up a can of KP 53 or could be KP 54, not sure exactly. This stuff really works on anything seized. It boils like peroxide on an open cut. I had an XLT 96 with the same problem mind you I tried the puller with no luck then my buddy told me about that penetrating oil and man did it loosen it off, mind you I still had to use the puller but it did come off. I rate this as my product of the year.....

well to no luck and 2 hours of usless pulling and prying its SEIZED. i even cut got the keyway out of the shaft and it would still not turn on the shaft. somthing is seriously messed up with either that shaft or the clutch. so next step... torch the clutch and find a new one.

I had to lay a sled on its side over night,,, filled the end of the driven clutch with penetrating oil and put a light over the end of it to heat it up,,,, came out the next morning and she came off,,, didnt just pop off,,, had to pull a little, but it did work. You may wanna give it a try to see what happens before cutting it off. grease up where your shaft goes into the clutch real well so it will hold the penetrating oil.

yeh i tried that the other night, and it still did nothing.So i finally cut it off tonight, and threw another one on, then took it for the first ride ever. man that thing is quick. cant wait for the trails to open.

TIP: after you get the clutch off, replace the keyway with a stainless one, this will make it a lot easier in the long run as they dont rust!