1993 Phazer. How the heck do I get the drive sprocket out to change the track??? I've removed the chain case cover and gears, and speedo housing and nut, and bearing. I can get the sprocket shaft out of the hole at the speedo housing, but I can't get it out of the chaincase. I wasn't able to remove the secondary clutch, but I unbolted the chaincase from the frame, and when I pull on the chaincase, everything moves with it (but the drive sprocket prevents me from removing the entire chaincase housing.). The drive sprocket shaft, the bearing....everything. I tried looking for some kind of circlip or other locking device....but I can't see anything.

http://www.snowmobileworld.com/forum/index...mp;hl=chaincase (http://www.snowmobileworld.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=63609&hl=chaincase)

Posted this not too long ago...follow that and you should be set!

(Its the long post with the pictures)

I pounded on the chaincase side of the jackshaft like crazy and it didn't move. I'll try again tomorrow night. My sled is actually the 93 VentureXL.....maybe it's different from the Phazer? I thought it was the same though.
Here are some pics of my chaincase and one of the inside of the tunnel where the shaft goes into the chaincase.
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/2093/venture9xh1.jpg
http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/3010/venture10hw6.jpg
http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/1172/venture11gi9.jpg

When you pound on the chaincase side of the driveshaft, is the chaincase fastened into the frame? Or does it move around? If the latter, try fastening it to back to the frame, and tapping on the shaft then. Make sure you don't mar up the end of the shaft, as you will not be able to slide it through the bearing.

If you really feel that it should be sliding out, and maybe it is just stuck on the shaft, you could try heating the bearing race with a torch. The downside of this is that you will probably wreck the bearing.


I would imagine my earlier instructions are what you should follow, I can't see them changing anything too major between the designs...

Let us know how you make out.

Finally got it off!!! WooHoo! :thumbsup:
Chaincase MUST be unbolted from the frame, as the gear on the end of the shaft is pressed on, and WILL NOT come off without a gear puller. So, chaincase had to be unbolted from frame, then as soon as I started working the track, the shaft dropped down and back. This shaft will not come right out from under the sled without the special tools needed to remove that gear on the chaincase end.
Thanks for all your suggestions and help! Now it's time to go get another track. :thumbsup:

in the pics i didnt look like there was anything preventing you from pullin out the drive shaft, you should have been able to push it out of the chaincase bearing towards the cluch side untill it droped then pulled it out, as it moved over the track would have jammed, you would of has to jiggle it but it shuld have come off.

could you explain this gear you needed to pull, the only gear that needed to come of in my mind is shown as already off in the center pic, that should be the only one that actually matters, more may have needed to come off to get the chain of, but as for getting the shaft off you should not have had to undue the entire chain case.

eric phazer....If you look real closely at the centre pic, you'll see that the "teeth" on the end of the shaft have a larger diameter than the hole in the centre of the bearing. Therefore, the shaft would not come out that way.

So how do you get the shaft out? If you can't slide it out of the chaincase, what do you do? Obviously you can't slide it out the OTHER way, as the drive sprockets and such are on that end of the shaft. Are you saying that the gear teeth on the shaft are too big to slide through the bearing?? (I think that is what you ARE saying, but I can't imagine they would be dumb enough to design it like that).

I am having a hard time understanding how you did this, although if you remove the drive shaft on a phazer incorrectly, you DO have to unbolt the chaincase. (It is already established that if done correctly, you DO NOT have to, for the record)

Apparently this is considerably different than the phazer style...

Are you saying that the gear teeth on the shaft are too big to slide through the bearing?? (I think that is what you ARE saying, but I can't imagine they would be dumb enough to design it like that).[/b]
Yep, that's what I'm saying. I'm assuming those gear teeth are pressed on to the shaft, and some type of gear puller would be needed to remove them. I'll try and get a pic tomorrow. It is quite an odd situation though.

Here's how the chaincase dissassembled from the frame and upper driveshaft for track removal for those who were wondering.....
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/4590/venture12we5.jpg
You can see here how the upper drive gear and spline is built to separate from the upper drive shaft (secondary clutch).
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/272/venture13wm8.jpg
Here's the back side of the chaincase.
http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/2007/venture14sn1.jpg

Anybody got any ideas as to how I should clean the "gunk" off the inside of the chaincase? I was thinking gasoline.....the sled will be sitting for a couple weeks before I get my track anyway. The gas should all evapourate by then.

hello all, was looking around for old venture/phazer stuff and came across this thread. i happen to have two identical machines rvanderklok, and i am putting new tracks on them now!
this is what i have found out using both attempts.
http://jarretandholly.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/normal_bothmachines.jpg
wether or not you have to remove the entire chaincase seems a moot point if you have take the cover off - it is only two more bolts.
when i took the cover off, i was very puzzled at how to get the drive shaft loose from the lower gear. where i expected to find a circlip or nut i found this
http://jarretandholly.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/normal_plugs.jpg
what it turned out to be was a "freeze plug" in the end of the shaft. i punched a hole in it and pried it out.
then i could pound out the shaft with a drift punch.
the gear slips off of this hub easily
http://jarretandholly.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/normal_sproketcase.jpg
the hub was stuck to the splines of the shaft, and that is what required pounding.
this is what the hub looks like with the chaincase removed (note, you cannot get the case off without first removing the hub, its splines are larger than the support bearing)
http://jarretandholly.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/normal_justsproket.jpg

here is the crazy part.
the hub is NOT press fit on the shaft, it was just rusted on. (8,000 mi each machine)
a little wire brush and some grease, and it slips on and off nicely. watch out for the oring on the inside bore of the hub.
http://jarretandholly.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/normal_splines.jpg
so the real trick is that YOU DONT EVEN HAVE TO REMOVE THE COVER OF THE CHAINCASE TO GET THE MAINSHAFT OUT!!!
that nasty freeze plug in the end of the hub means that it wont even leak lube when you pull the shaft!!
provided it is not an old rusty one (which it probably is), you can just remove the four fasteners holding the left support bearing, and slide the drive shaft out that way. i tried on the second machine, but there was too much pounding involved, i popped the freeze plug on that one too.

i put mine back together with rtv on the splines, instead of replacing the freeze plugs, oh well, may be sorry later. i also used rtv to seal the cover back on. gaskets are a pain.

i cleaned mine out with some spray brake clean. the drive dogs have been leaving some metal flakes in the oil.

so, is this 91 venture w/reverse different than a phazer?

If there an oring inside that small spline hub than the freeze plug at the end is useless...It will let oil lube the splines so they wont rust and oil will be stopped by the oring?

Martin

In 1993 Yamaha started pressing on the gears, there is no freeze plug after 1992. That is some great info though! Those Ventures were similar to Phazers in most aspects of things. Ventures were geared lower, and of course had reverse and electric start, with a windshield and headlight on the hood.

In 1993 Yamaha started pressing on the gears, there is no freeze plug after 1992. That is some great info though! Those Ventures were similar to Phazers in most aspects of things. Ventures were geared lower, and of course had reverse and electric start, with a windshield and headlight on the hood.[/b]

thanks 76 that was a very informative and easily followed post, great info!

If there an oring inside that small spline hub than the freeze plug at the end is useless...It will let oil lube the splines so they wont rust and oil will be stopped by the oring?

Martin[/b]

good point, i think you are very right. as long as you dont mind loosing some lube if you pull the shaft out.


why they got to go and change stuff?? poor 93 guys

I was just doing some more research, and it seem's as though I was mislead by the Yammi mechanic I was speaking with. In 93 the shaft is supposed to come out like any other sled. Remove the clutch side bearing housing and bearing, then move the shaft towards clutch side and it should drop out of the chaincase. This came from a guy who has a 93 Venture and just changed his track last week.......

vanderklok, did you get stuff apart?
if not, i would pound out that freeze plug and use some "hammer and punch" persuasion on the shaft.