we have just finished installing a stretched out edge suspention in a 2000 sks that had x10.this is a gen 2 chassis.when we got it on the floor and push down on the back bumper,it goes real easy about 1/2 way until it hits the rear scissor blocks and then thats it.it wont go any furthur.feels like its dead x.my 02 contiues down another 5 inches.we have looked it over till were blue in the face and cant see anything wrong.we also have a spare skid on the floor to look at.has anyone ever seen this before.??any ideas appreciated.

Is your center to center mounting bolt dimension 24" or maybe just a little less?

I did run into something similar on one of the conversions I did. Might be the same thing. The one I'm thinking of was right at 24" and would go down until it hit the stop and bind (much like you are describing), but if you put a lot more weight on it, would continue as if it's gone past center. Coming up it would do the same thing.

Betting your coupling blocks are on high in front hole? If so, try on low. See if that changes anything.
If that does it, no big deal. Just don't run it on high. Most setups I end up with don't use the coupling blocks in the front hole anyway. In the front hole, they couple up way to quick on the downstroke, leaving the bottom half of the suspension travel unused most of the time.

Edit: By the way. I did that exact same sled. Been riding a long time, and that may be one of the best all around FUN machines to drive I've ever ridden. Think twice before letting go of it.......

so your saying that if the mount holes arnt correct that it will hit dead x instead of rolling over to the front shock for help.i weigh 250 and when i stand on the rear bumper after it hits the rear blocks;which are in the middle hole and turned to the least position.it appears that the transfer rods are under great stress.shoudnt they be moving the pivot gizzmo that the bottom of the front shock is hooked to.cause i8t dont.thanks for your help here.

If you are binding up with the block in the middle, mounting dimensions are likely not at play. They'd have to be way off.

The link/lever at the bottom/front of the rear shock. Is it horizontal or vertical? Should be vertical/standing up.

Had the same problem,
Coupled suspension: front mounts to high up OR rear mounts to low. Take your pick>

Had the same problem,
Coupled suspension: front mounts to high up OR rear mounts to low. Take your pick>[/b]
i have tons of slop in the limiter straps.possibly front mount to low maybe putting the weight on the front first.if thats the case then would that make it seem like the rear shock is ineffective.you can push down on the back with the rider seated and it will stay there.the shocks are fresh rebuilds.

Man, somethings just not right. Back to basics. What did you use for mounting dimensions? Hopefully something close to the ones on Jerry's web site? (http://jbshocks.com/edgemount.JPG) The ones that are most important/need to be pretty close to what is shown there are the location of the front cross shaft, and the distance from the front crossshaft to the rear (as mentioned earlier).

If that stuff is close, I can walk you through the rest. Just need to know where to start. The binding thing is scary. Getting the sled to return to the top shouldn't be that big of a deal.....

If you are binding up with the block in the middle, mounting dimensions are likely not at play. They'd have to be way off.

The link/lever at the bottom/front of the rear shock. Is it horizontal or vertical? Should be vertical/standing up.[/b]
the lever was leaning to the back alot.i removed the rear mount bolts and pryed the lever forward to stand up.this moved the hole mount ahead 1 inch.after measuring we had 24 inches.works great.thanks to you guys fopr the help.