I just picked up another relay for the sled today at the local auto parts place and I want to make sure the one I have is the same specs as factory. It has all the same pin placements and the guy behind the counter assured me that it was the same but I'm not real confident in their abilities. Would like to be sure before I stick it in the sled and fry something else. :wink:
Here is a couple pics, the only difference I can really see is that the casing is a bit larger.

Sorry, I can't help you on this one...but when you find out be sure to post it here. I was just thinking the other day that it would be a good idea to carry a spare relay in the trailer. Do you know if the SDI and non-SDI relay's are the same? I found a NAPA part # on DT for a non-SDI relay, but I don't know if they're the same relay or not. Aparently, the relay for the SDI is in the fuse box, where as the non-SDI sleds have them zip tied to the chassis, up underneath the console.

The cheaper relays don't employ a clamping diode across the electrical winding which pulls the contacts closed. The diode is run in parallel with the winding and chops the electrical spike when the relay is commanded open and the calapsing field induces voltage into the contacts. The is important on sensitive electronic circuits which are controlled by the ECM (read MEPEM).

The cheaper relays don't employ a clamping diode across the electrical winding which pulls the contacts closed. The diode is run in parallel with the winding and chops the electrical spike when the relay is commanded open and the calapsing field induces voltage into the contacts. The is important on sensitive electronic circuits which are controlled by the ECM (read MEPEM).[/b]

Thanks TD. So...are you saying that we shouldn't use the relays that we find at the auto stores or just to be aware that some relays don't have this clamping diode? How do we know if we have a 'good' relay?

On good quality relays like the one Jason has shown, there is a schematic of the pin allocations on the side of the relay and as indicated on that schematic there is a diode parallel to the winding (pins 85~86).

In case anyone didn't know the one on the left is the Doo stocker and the one one the right is a $10 Auto value special. I have heard that you can get them cheaper but I this was the only one that I found locally in stock,( other than the Doo dealer $30).

Great info Thumbdoctor, can I ask how you know so much about these? Never expected so much info on a will this work thread :tongue: , you rock :tongue:

So, the one he picked up at the auto store is a good replacement? If so, what is the part # for that Jason, and where did you get it from?

Thumbdoctor: Would you use the automotive replacement relay if an external diode was placed across the coil? Thanks for sharing your expertise with us.
John.

Thumbdoctor: Would you use the automotive replacement relay if an external diode was placed across the coil? Thanks for sharing your expertise with us.
John.[/b]
Yes you could do that but why go to the trouble if you can get a relay with an integral diode. With the potential for disaster on these glorified vibrators, I try to stick with the KISS principal.

(Keep It Simple Stupid) :rolleyes:

So, the one he picked up at the auto store is a good replacement?[/b]

I'm still not 100% on this one either? What do you think Thumbdoctor?

first of all not sure but here is a little advice i am in the h.v.a.c field and we can save 10 to 15 $ putting in a cheap no name relay but it is cheaoer in the long run to go with the factory ones the after market ones always buzz and never seem to fit perfect even though they look the same no these are not 12 v they are 24 or 120v but still how muck are you saveing 10 15$ or 100 to 150$ its only a couple of $ on a very $$$$$$ toy spend the extra 10 bucks 4 the piece of mind

first of all not sure but here is a little advice i am in the h.v.a.c field and we can save 10 to 15 $ putting in a cheap no name relay but it is cheaoer in the long run to go with the factory ones the after market ones always buzz and never seem to fit perfect even though they look the same no these are not 12 v they are 24 or 120v but still how muck are you saveing 10 15$ or 100 to 150$ its only a couple of $ on a very $$$$$$ toy spend the extra 10 bucks 4 the piece of mind[/b]


I agree, if its only 20$ more to get OEM, I think its worth it knowing u have the right part and won't be off on the side of the trail later on... I also am in the HVAC field. :p

first of all not sure but here is a little advice i am in the h.v.a.c field and we can save 10 to 15 $ putting in a cheap no name relay but it is cheaoer in the long run to go with the factory ones the after market ones always buzz and never seem to fit perfect even though they look the same no these are not 12 v they are 24 or 120v but still how muck are you saveing 10 15$ or 100 to 150$ its only a couple of $ on a very $$$$$$ toy spend the extra 10 bucks 4 the piece of mind[/b]


I agree, if its only 20$ more to get OEM, I think its worth it knowing u have the right part and won't be off on the side of the trail later on... I also am in the HVAC field. :p[/b]

You are both probably right in most cases but for the number of people I hear (including myself) that are having to replace these I believe that the Oem ones arn't to great either. :confused:

I'm still not 100% on this one either? What do you think Thumbdoctor?[/b]
Jason,

Note the symbol beside the red arrow on your relay. Its a diode so your OK.

[attachment=32148:post_478...thumb_1_.jpg]

Jason,

Note the symbol beside the red arrow on your relay. Its a diode so your OK.

[attachment=32148:post_478...thumb_1_.jpg][/b]

Got it :wink:

You are both probably right in most cases but for the number of people I hear (including myself) that are having to replace these I believe that the Oem ones arn't to great either. :confused:[/b]

Lucky for me I haven't had any problems with the relays :whistling: on my sled, and I think our sleds are the same, If your having problems with relays going out maybe its something else like voltage spikes, :confused:, most relays that go bad aren't because of the relay, but what comes into them... IE amperage,

Just to hijack your thread Jason, what's the porn DVD you have on the table?

Simon, that is just one example of why we all breathed a huge collective sigh of relief when we saw you were back on the site.

Jeff

...what is the part # for that Jason, and where did you get it from?[/b]

:huh:

Just to hijack your thread Jason, what's the porn DVD you have on the table?

Simon, that is just one example of why we all breathed a huge collective sigh of relief when we saw you were back on the site.

Jeff[/b]

Jeff, you should know better, porn is best left in the Dvd player :p . Actually its the new Clerks II, great flick.

Matt
The part number I have is STD RY116 and it was bought at the local Auto Value. I'm pretty sure you should have one down by you. MikeD said that he got them much cheaper than this even so with a little searching you may even do better yet. :thumbsup:

Later J

Jeff, you should know better, porn is best left in the Dvd player :p . Actually its the new Clerks II, great flick.

Matt
The part number I have is STD RY116 and it was bought at the local Auto Value. I'm pretty sure you should have one down by you. MikeD said that he got them much cheaper than this even so with a little searching you may even do better yet. :thumbsup:

Later J[/b]

Armed with this new info (diode) I'm going to check my spare when I get home .....

A five terminal auto relay is a five terminal auto relay. If the pins line up and it says 85 86 87 &87A & 30, buy three and ziplock them in your tool pouch and ride!!!!!

I'm with ontariohuter on this one too. My job isn't HVAC but backup power supplies and generators. We find that OEM replacement stuff fails as often as anything and some of the aftermarket suppliers are better quality. Make sure it's rated for the right voltage and that the contacts are supposed to be normally open or closed and that all matches up with the OEM.

A side note is that if you do put in a non-oem relay and it something electronic goes in your sled... Make sure to slap the OEM one back in before you take it in for warranty work!

Woodler

A five terminal auto relay is a five terminal auto relay. If the pins line up and it says 85 86 87 &87A & 30, buy three and ziplock them in your tool pouch and ride!!!!![/b]


I'm with ontariohuter on this one too. My job isn't HVAC but backup power supplies and generators. We find that OEM replacement stuff fails as often as anything and some of the aftermarket suppliers are better quality. Make sure it's rated for the right voltage and that the contacts are supposed to be normally open or closed and that all matches up with the OEM.

A side note is that if you do put in a non-oem relay and it something electronic goes in your sled... Make sure to slap the OEM one back in before you take it in for warranty work!

Woodler[/b]

Thanks guys, this is what I think as well. I have heard many people say that the oem where of very poor quality anyways so why not explore your other options. :wink:

A five terminal auto relay is a five terminal auto relay. If the pins line up and it says 85 86 87 &87A & 30, buy three and ziplock them in your tool pouch and ride!!!!![/b]

No offense ontariohuter, but I would rather put my faith in the wisdom of TD. Make sure that the spares you buy have the clamping diode. Don't take the chance that the cheaper one could damage your electrial system.

Jason,

Did you have the cut out problem with your SDI when hitting a bump or mogul? Is this the reason your replacing it?

Or was it the no light thing.

Jason,

Did you have the cut out problem with your SDI when hitting a bump or mogul? Is this the reason your replacing it?

Or was it the no light thing.[/b]

Yep is was a lighting issue, I started the sled up after doing some mods and the lights flickered on and off a few times and then just stayed off.

The only time the sled has cut out was when hiting a good size jump after hammering down through some powder. My dealer seems to think that I was over reving the engine but the engine cut out in the air typically when you are off the gas :whatever: It only did this a couple times so it hasn't bothered me to much.

there is way to much emphasis on this relay,remember these are not delicate computer circiuts but rather low tech sleds.,it only performs a simple switching function for battery charging.
The oem are crappy relays,so the theory that the clamping diode(not a true clamping function ) is worth the extra money is not valid in my eyes.
The one i placed on my sled is still working fine a year later.
Just my 2 cents