so I took the skid out to get at the suspension on my 96 touring. (only 4 bolts to drop it out). Now in my attempts to get the skid bolted back in I got the 2 front bolts back in but I can't get the back 2 in... It seems I would have to compress the suspension some how to get the holes to line up?

Or should I have hooked the back of the skid up before the front?

Any hints/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Allan

I have always bolted the front up first. I've also always had to use the gentle persuasion of a pry bar to help align the shaft with the holes on the tunnel. You could I guess enlist the aid of a ratchet strap to help compress the suspension a bit. In the past, I've found that after much knuckle busting and cursing, it finally lines up.
It definately hasn't been easy for me in the past, but maybe someone will have a little trick or two that they'd like to share....

YOU NEED A RATCHET STRAP TO PULL THE REAR ARM DOWN AND IT WILL LINE UP.

yup, what he said.
2 people makes it easier. I did mine by myself last year. No problem with a ratchet strap.

yup, what he said.
2 people makes it easier. I did mine by myself last year. No problem with a ratchet strap.[/b]


alright cool, thanks guys, I figured it would take something like that.

often simply loosenin/tightening the track adjuster bolts at rear will do

often simply loosenin/tightening the track adjuster bolts at rear will do[/b]

This is usually all it takes if the holes are to far behing the mounting holes, tightening the track will push the bolt holes forward.
Now on my old 02 the holes would line up in front of the mounting holes for some reason so I mounted an eyebolt to the wall and used a rachet strap to pull the skid back

If you take the idler wheels of the back of the rails on your suspension just forward of the big rear wheels, then take the straight part of the spring that goes on behind the idler wheels of the block it will relieve the tension off the top of the skid and they will line right up. Works great and takes 5 minutes.

I always compress the skid before installing and have the sled hanging from the trusses. then just lower and raise the sled til the holes line up . sometimes it's really close and I just jiggle it around to get it to go.
There's the other way too ,undo the springs at rails till the skids in and then reattacth the springs in place( sometimes you need to remove the idlers thats right there too)

mutt

often simply loosenin/tightening the track adjuster bolts at rear will do[/b]


This is what I doo!!

Brian

Best way is the ratchet strap. Next time you take your skid out put the ratchet stap on first then take your suspension bolts out then when you put it back in the holes should line up but remember to take the ratchet strap off before you ride my buddy forgot once and it wasnt pretty.

Hey since you're on the topic of the skid. Anyone know how much it would cost to rebuild an old C7 skid in my '94 Mach? The front axle is the culprit of the clunking noise I'm hearing when on the flipper from a dead stop. It is VERY sloppy. there has to be bushings in there that are completely pooched. Or is there an M10 that will fit in there? I have the whole skid out putting in studs and changing the sliders, and found the sloppiness. It's just the front though, the rear seems nice and snug still.[attachment=32188:S3010017.JPG]

get an SC10 for the Mach

as for the other guy

it is much easier if you flip the sled on its side to line up the holes

this way here you can pull back or push forward to align the wholes

no need for ratchet starps or trusses

Will the SC10 fit in mine? thanks. As for the flipping on it's side to line up holes. I don't know if you deer hunt or not but I tie the block and pullys to the grab bar that I hang my deer from in the garage. It's just the one from Princess Auto that is always on sale for $7.50 from $14.00. It's rated for 900 lbs. or something like that. I can lift the sled up at the back so high that I can almost stand to adjust the track. Greg.[attachment=32200:S3010024.JPG]

Yes a SC 10 is an easy fit

all you need is a 96-99 SC 10($150-300) and the 2 back brackets($50)

a grinder and drill

I did this with my 95 with C7 and put a 98 MXZ SC-10 into it a few years ago

I am serious about the sled on the side it is much easier to remove and install the skid

even the C7 on your 94 is easy with the sled on the side

Arctic Cat guys always turn their sleds on their sides to put the supension in, I mean who cares if you scratch that green paint, right?!?
Definitely use the ratchet strap, its a simple one man operation with the sled on a stand and a ratchet strap to compress the suspension.