I am going to stud my Rev 600 with 144 studs (once the tunnel protector kits arrive). I have heard people say that placing them "down the center" is the best way. I have a woody's template and anything over 96 studs shows the extra studs on the outside of windows. Could someone explain or better yet post a picture as to how the studs are arranged in a 144 center pattern. thanks.

Bump to that! Just about to stud my sled and i've got the same question.

Check out Woodys web site. They have a new Universal Template that has a couple of 144 configurations down the middle. I'm currently in the process of instaling the "double digger" 144 - combo dual / single stud layout. Hope this helps.

Yes, like ttbone said the new Woody's univeral template has the 144 down the center. An alternative would be using the old 192 pattern and skipping the outside lugs.

Thanks Guys,
Just what I was looking for!!! :D

I heard that you shoudlnt stud REV's yet. what is the story on that?? other than that, drewalt said the template!

Studs in the REV are hitting the tunnel in front of the heat exchanger and getting all the way thru to the gas tank. ??? They are working on a tunnel protector kit for that area.

Now this is just my opinion, but I wouldn't go with more than 96 down the middle on a 600. But, that' s just me.

why wouldnt anything over 96 in the middle be good? i was thinking 144 in the middle, roetin hornets. it seems the rev spins more than a conventional doo cause your more forward. how can i get it to lift the skis and not spin, besides studs?

I would try 120 down the middle first. You can always add more later. I have 120 roetin hornets on my 700, right down the middle, and it gets plenty of bite, enough to lift the skis without spinning the track. Placing studs in the outside of the track will only help you a little more in the corners, but with the deep lug tracks of today, I have found that it really isn't necessary. Plus, I have had a few tear out on the edge of prior sleds, and that just ticks me off. It had been suggested to me to try the 120 right down the middle, and it really works. Plus, you don't have all the added weight of the extra studs to hurt your top end.

As far as pattern, I took a normal 96 pattern and added one stud in every other pitch, alternating sides and placement. You also want to vary the exact placement of the studs a little to maximize the scratch pattern for the most bite. Don't bother with a pattern template, you want a little bit of a random pattern, otherwise the studs will be grabbing the same place on the snow/ice. I use a white paint marker and lay it out first, then drill all of the holes at once.

I'm going with 168 down the middle on my 800 REV. I have about 160hp. I have made my own pattern with 48 scratch lines. The pattern is about 30 inches long. This is how long the track is that touches the ground at any given time. Repeats only 4 times around the track. What that means is every stud that hits ice will be a clean scratch. Should launch like the space shuttle. :D

I have a rev mxzx 800 and a mxzx 600 h.o., both with 1.25" tracks. What stud length should I use and how many?

Where do you ride and in what typical conditions? Will you sacrifice top speed a bit for gobs of traction? If you rarely see icy hills or big patches of ice, those tracks will not benefit much with studs. I would put 96 (1.325" Woodys)on the 600 unless you ride in crap like I doo in Vt. 144 (1.325) on the 800. Put them in the middle. Get good backers to prevent flex and pull through. I too am dooing the 144 double digger setup on my 01 800x w/ new predator track. Good luck!

When I was studding my sled last year, I read somewhere that you are supposed to have 1/4 inch between scratch lines. You might want to check that out.

What I did was make my own template. I got 2 metal bars, (the kind to join furnace ducts together and hang them from the rafters). I drilled 6 holes evenly spaced across one of them, and then drilled 5 holes across the other bar, 1/3 the distance from the previous bar. I did this so I can flip the bar with 5 holes in it, to get 5 more scratch lines to make ip the other 1/3 distance between studs.

I hope that wasn't confusing. I will try to describe it below.



|* * * * * *| bar #1
| * * * * * | Bar #2
| * * * * * | Bar # 2 flipped over

My pattern went something like this:

|X X O O X X| Bar #1
| X X O O X | Bar # 2
| X O O X X | Bar # 2 Flipped
| O X X X O | Bar #2
| O X X X O | Bar #2 flipped
|O O X X O O| Bar # 1

In this pattern, using 18 studs, I have 16 scratch lines, all more than a 1/4 inch apart. Repeat this pattern for 144 studs.

Steve