11-09-2007, 04:28 PM
Ok tomorrow im going to take the rear skid out of my 1995 vmax 600 and put in a new shock. The skid is off a 96 mx-z so its been out before in its life. Getting it out shouldnt be a problem, all i gotta do is unbolt...
Getting it back in however, what should i do? I know i should de-grease the bolt holes and bolts, should i use anti-seize or loc-tite or something? what flavor of loc-tite if thats the answer? How about suspension bolt torque?
Im going to grease everything up while im in there as well, and adjust the track tension.
Thanks for the help!
11-09-2007, 09:08 PM
9 views and nothing for help? come on guys/gals i need to know if i should use anti seize or loctite...
11-09-2007, 10:41 PM
I dont use alot of loctite on my sled. If you must, go with the blue stuff. Comes apart easier later. I just check my skid bolts before each ride.
I find best way to re and re the skid is with a chainfall, you can jack it waaaaay up when needed. I dont use antiseize on the bolts. Then again I pull my skid and disassemble every fall. Remember to grease the snot out of everything b4 you put it back in.
11-09-2007, 11:44 PM
I would suggest you do use never-sieze.
Mainly because you're putting steel bolts into aluminum shafts.
If you're worried about them spinning out, just put a Sharpie mark on top of each bolt after tightening them. If it comes loose you'll notice your mark being in a different spot.
Of course, you'll only notice that if you inspect them regularly.
Also make sure you inspect the for broken welds as well as any idler wheel bearing play.
With you using a Skidoo skid in a Yamaha you've probably confused most of us. LOL
11-10-2007, 02:01 AM
I took out the skid on three of my sleds this summer including the 96 Vmax. I feel like it's gotten pretty easy, so here's what I do. I don't turn it in its side at any time. First use a jack on the rear bumper to just fully unload the suspension, but not lifting the sled off the ground. That way the bolts come off easier. Take off the rear bolts first. Make sure you can get both sides loose before you remove either. You might need to raise/lower the jack for the front bolts. After all 4 are out, lift up the rear end of the snowmobile body high enough so that when you slide the skid forward, the rail tips do not get caught up in the drivers. It will need to be a few feet up there. Generally the higher the better. You need a buddy or a really secure way to do this if you want to do it by yourself. Personally I have a 5 foot pipe that I use to stand the rear bumper on (it's not much weight, you only lift it this high after the suspension is fully unbolted) but I would never do this without a friend who had one hand on the pipe and one hand on the bumper. I usually slide the skid as far forward as possible (rail tips under the drivers) and then just try to lift and pull it out from the rear axle end. Make sure you fully loosened the track tensioners of course. Take the brake off while you are positioning the skid but you may want to set the brake again before you pull out the skid. Don't bother unloading the rear springs, there should be no need. It doesn't sound easier than turning the machine on its side, but after having done both ways I feel this one is much easier, the skid just pops right out and never gets caught up in the track and is much easier to install as well. I believe that gravity pulling the track down/open makes it easier or at least more predictable to work with. Plus you don't lose any fluids. Plus you don't scratch your paint. Just figure out a safe way to do it.
It can be really hard to get a stuck bolt off of these shafts because once you get one side loose, the other side will just spin the shaft and never come loose. That's why I avoid loctite. Your call.
11-10-2007, 06:47 PM
When you put it back in its better to have the torsion springs loose so you can line it back up.I like to use a come along to lift the rear up on my sleds but the yamy I always seem to have to get it on its side in the end to get it lined up.Its because it has these things in the tunnel that only let it get to the holes in front from the back & these are the ones you want to put in first when putting back in.I don't like lock tight either put check the skids the first few times out for the year.I might even put a dap of grease on them if they look like they are getting corroded
11-10-2007, 08:00 PM
Thanks for the pointers, I got it done today, took about 3 1/2 hours by myself workin on it. My moms boyfriend has a chain hoist in his barn, manual up and down with internal ratchets so it only moves if you pull on the chain(s)...neat....
anyways, getting it out was a bear because i couldnt loosen the track tension screws, but i got it out and got the tensions bolts off and loosened up. Shock replacement was simple, Greased all the fittings till grease squirted out, etc etc.
Reinstall was easy. very easy. I used a ratchet strap to compress the suspension a few inches (did this to get it out as well) and it worked VERY smoothly. The shock i put in is cheap, but it sure stiffened up the suspension, cant bottom it out by jumping up and down on the rear bumper like you could before. old shock was original and very soft. I used some anti-seize on the suspension bolts, figured it couldnt hurt any. I will go through and tighten bolts every so often, I used to do that on my old snowmobile as well, and I do it on all my bicycles. I might have to put a new track on if i keep it for next winter, this one isnt in the best shape. Its definitely solid, but a lot of the lugs are torn off near the edge and in some cases rods are showing.
Also adjusted chain tension while i was playin around with wrenches!
Later this week ill take the left front shock tower off and see if i can straigten out the flange and see if the internal shock is straight and free-moving. I hope it is, I dont feel like buying a used one...once thats done I just need to register, insure, and wait for snow!!!