just loaded the sled and it really wants to jump when I get on it compared to before when I had the stock setup . I LIKE IT lol feels like it did or better when it was a 121 . first trip is in the morn so I will see if I`m going to stay this way or not but I like it so far lol down 3 on top , down 1 on the bottom . 20/39 . I will report back Saturday night . wish me luck

so what are you guy`s running ? M

If I remember right I encouraged you to regear rather than try to reclutch after your mod. :) Good choice if your clutch was already the way you wanted it before the mod. The arguments I hear about "too much torque" from regearing are pretty hard for me to fathom. I've never had "too much torque" in 3 feet of powder. Maybe if you run on ice all the time you could have too much torque. Since you went to a longer track you *need* that extra torque. It's basically a matter of taste at this point. At any rate, congrats. Does your sled have 9 tooth drivers? If your paddle is 1.25" you are probably right where you want to be. My gearings are all a little bit more aggressive (see my signature) but I do almost no trail and my tracks are all deeper lug. Also it depends on how much you want to limit your top speed...to me going over 80 is just not on my list of priorities. And since I ride at higher altitudes my engines put out less power so I need the extra gearing help.

I think the best benefit of gearing very aggressively (for lower top speeds and more low-end torque) is your clutch has much less load placed on it and therefore runs much cooler and more efficiently. It will jump on engagement rather than burn the belt. Some people think a weak engagement/burning belt gives you better traction when you take off from a stop. Personally I don't buy it. Maybe for trail but again that's not what I tune for. Give it a little less throttle if you're spinning out. You can't compensate for not enough torque when you're in that 3 feet of powder.

Case in point, I've put a full year (50 rides) on my Vmax belt and it still measures to new spec. It looks flawless and always runs cool as the other side of the pillow. Because it is not being strained to do it's job.

Oh yeah, you *may* need to tweak your secondary preload since the torque feedback from the track has changed. I doubt it, but it's possible. Give it a full day watching your peak RPM in different snow conditions and adjust the secondary from there.

I'm also regearing my sled, not that big of a jump though. I had 22x41 and I'm changeing to a 20x40. All I'm looking for was a bit more I guess you could say"tork" in the low to midrange for rideing in the loose snow....I mean trail's. Hope this was a good idea.

to each his own, but man that seems like huge jumps for me. the loss up top is not my cup of tea.

to each his own, but man that seems like huge jumps for me. the loss up top is not my cup of tea.[/b]


well I`m back . I actually gained top end lol . full report sunday

well I`m back . I actually gained top end lol . full report sunday[/b]

Sweet! I'll bet that's the increased clutching efficiency going to work for you. Look what happens when you can fully shift-out :)

well I`m back . I actually gained top end lol . full report sunday[/b]
I re-reas the first post. I thought you said 3 down on top one up on the bottom, you said down on the bottom too, so its like a 2 1/2 down up top. I can see a topend gain there, as it let it into od on the clutch. how was the conditions for that? fluffy snow or hard pack? may cause an over rev on ice or pack if it was on loose snow.you can usually see that with a 1 tooth drop on the top.

Mark's sled ran very well !!! We ran mostly loose snow there was not a lot of hard pack anywhere that we ran across. I will say that Marks sled seams a little more snappy than it did last year :thumbsup:

I marked the clutches before I went up and it appears that I am shifting much more than before . I have much more bottom end and it now powers through situations where it would of bogged or spun a belt before . for top end when it was new it would do an indicated 120mph or so ( I know thats not the real speed but that is a different discussion ) after my longtrack project the top end went down to an indicated 85 .now after gear swap it is back up to well over 100 mph (I know thats not the real speed but that is a different discussion ) .I may go 1 tooth up on the bottom yet just to see if there is anything else there or not ( I allready have the gear so its not a biggie ) .I myself would have never believed these results without first hand experience so I`m glad that enough people here had the good sence to stear me in the right direction . one last thing as a result of getting more power to the track I had to add a little more tension to the track to prevent ratcheting

I almost always re-gear in order to get more pulling torque. Of course, I suppose my reasons are a bit different that some of you guys! :D

http://www.hunt101.com/data/562/6772rmkload.jpg

http://www.hunt101.com/data/562/6772meat.jpg

:ohmy: Those are the biggest chicken wings I have eve seen !!!

I geared down 4 on top years ago 22/43 and wouldnt have it any other way.
Lost 10 mph on top but will still do 105 in perfect conditions.

I geared down 4 on top years ago 22/43 and wouldnt have it any other way.
Lost 10 mph on top but will still do 105 in perfect conditions.[/b]


is 22/43 what you geared to or from ?

26/43 was stock on mikadoo's sled

mark im running 21/41 and 23/40 in my sleds this year. the 23/40 didnt chagne its in the 660. i cahgne form 19/43 to 21/41 in the 440 to gain a little more top end for XC racing. somehow 80 is just not enough crossing a lake.