alright... long story short i bought a 94 xlt and it lasted about 20 minutes. Apparently it had 1 ride on a fresh top end so i was being gentle. heres some pics-

crankshaft hitting case:
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z312/beastlyjeep/IMG_5718.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z312/beastlyjeep/IMG_5716.jpg

metal shavings in bottom end-
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z312/beastlyjeep/IMG_5713.jpg

pto piston-

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z312/beastlyjeep/IMG_5708.jpg

center piston-

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z312/beastlyjeep/IMG_5707.jpg


im am new to the sled world, im sure theres people on here that could make sense of this before i get out my sledge hammer.

looks like i cant put as many pics as i would like to at one time... ill try later and show cyl. walls, and sled pics.

cyl. wall-

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z312/beastlyjeep/IMG_5702.jpg

and finally... what i dont get to ride this year.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z312/beastlyjeep/IMG_5719.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z312/beastlyjeep/IMG_5720.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z312/beastlyjeep/IMG_5721.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z312/beastlyjeep/IMG_5722.jpg

how does the crank feel smooth?? look at the piston and see if the pins are still in it. looks like either a rod bearing let go or a piston pin fell out. thats why the chips in the piston. does the head look like the top of the piston?

your sleds on fire.....

Yea my sleds on fire... Thank you for contributing your help to my situation.

RAD RACER 38X (and everyone else):

The crank was very hard to turn and made a nasty metallic screech when i forced it to turn. The motor never made any noise indicating something was wrong (before it died at IDLE) , and there was no debris in the chambers.. the heads themselves have minor marks in them compared to the pistons. I was the heads are SLP power dome heads, how can i verify that?

lol! my guess would be water in the crankcase.

sorry, i know its not funny.

Yea my sleds on fire... Thank you for contributing your help to my situation.

RAD RACER 38X (and everyone else):

The crank was very hard to turn and made a nasty metallic screech when i forced it to turn. The motor never made any noise indicating something was wrong (before it died at IDLE) , and there was no debris in the chambers.. the heads themselves have minor marks in them compared to the pistons. I was the heads are SLP power dome heads, how can i verify that?[/b]
I had a 580 arctic cat last year that I blew the motor in...The reason was it is jetted for higher elevation so when I held it wide open at low elevation she blew, I actually had a indentation at the top of my piston. I replaced the jug (unfortunatly I think you have to replace the entire head because aren't all the jugs connected?) piston, rings, neddle bearing, and wrist pin just on the bad side left the other side alone, cleaned the crankcase with a shop vac (took a while) oiled the crap out of everything put it back together and she ran great I just remembered down low go slow. Does the crank turn nice when the pistons are removed? I see your in B.C. I am as well and I ordered most of my stuff from Royal Distributing and ebay. I actually found a jug at a scrap yard that is close by. There isn't any xlt parts up there I looked earlier this year for a buddy. Hope this helps.

alright... long story short i bought a 94 xlt and it lasted about 20 minutes. Apparently it had 1 ride on a fresh top end so i was being gentle. heres some pics-

crankshaft hitting case:
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z312/beastlyjeep/IMG_5718.jpg
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z312/beastlyjeep/IMG_5716.jpg

metal shavings in bottom end-
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z312/beastlyjeep/IMG_5713.jpg

pto piston-

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z312/beastlyjeep/IMG_5708.jpg

center piston-

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z312/beastlyjeep/IMG_5707.jpg
im am new to the sled world, im sure theres people on here that could make sense of this before i get out my sledge hammer.

looks like i cant put as many pics as i would like to at one time... ill try later and show cyl. walls, and sled pics.[/b]

I blew mine up to, clogged jet. You should have seen my piston, it has peices notched out of it, plus the jug was shot, gettin my parts this week. all i got left to do is to clean the crank out and put it back together. sucks when it happens!!!

guys, its not a meltdown like a lack of fuel will cause. it was idling, main jet not an issue. at least your jug looks salvagable.

your transfers arent supposed to be covered in brown crap. antifreeze will do that. it will also wash the piston-causing the scuffing, and wash the bearings causing them to fail as well. is just the rod bearing shot or is the crank bearing toast too?

guys, its not a meltdown like a lack of fuel will cause. it was idling, main jet not an issue. at least your jug looks salvagable.[/b]


Those speckles on the top of the piston indicate that water was in the fuel.

one last thing, one ride on a fresh top end wont put 5000 miles worth of carbon on the piston. JMO

PTO bearing are toast ! look at the space between right side of rod and cases. Possible you have spun the PTO cheek walking it into the case. Looks like you have a large gap at the bottom rod brg

so my guess is the only good parts left are the jugs, heads, and probably con rods. any chance the case and crank are salvagable? It managed to rub chunks of metal off the surface of the case, if you look close at the bottom of where crank meets case in pic 2. There is a fair amount of metal that you can see where i dragged a magnet through it in pic. 3. Could the crank be bent?

Edit: does anyone know where i can get a complete bottom end or motor thats not pooched for a reasonable price? Any recommended pistons?

my guess is the crank let (what ever bearing) all the speckles is aluminum from a bearing geting sucked up and through. I had it happen to me owned 4 xlts. youll need a new crank send it out and theyll send you a new one. (yours is a trade in for the core) you can get the holes honed if its not nicked if it is you can go one size over( its just iron lined)
I would recomend all 3 not jut the one.
and for your head question, a stock head has all 3 domes conected together and the slp is 3 seperate domes. do you run triple pipes on it?? xlts are bullet proof untill you start moding them heads pipes etc. thats when the cranks seem to always let go.

The shavings are definately not aluminum as they are magnetic. Here is a pic of the crankshaft rubbing on the case, you can see a piece of metal lifting away.

no triple pipes but they were dome heads.

any possibility extreme flooding/ fuel washing away lubricants could be a suspect?

looks like your rod pin let the lobe come loose and run into the case. fuel wont cause the wet blackness in the transfers. ebay usually has some deals on bottom ends. i think your cylinders are nikasil. either way i dont see a reason yet to get cylinders from your pics.

I'm with Rad, your crank bearings are probably toast, and you will need a crank rebuild. The crankcase "should" be OK, but you won't really know till you split the cases and pull the crank. As long as there are not major gouges in the cylinders, they should be OK, you might want to have them checked for being out of round. Low quality gas and if those are high compression heads, that combination will cause problems. A crank rebuild is not something most sledders can do on their own, at least not for me, but even with sending the crank out for a rebuild, you could be back on the snow in 3 weeks. Of course there is the problem of that $300-$400 for the crank, and maybe a couple more c-notes for the rest of the stuff you may need. :confused:

Wow I'm sorry about that. That really sucks. :confused:

best thing to do in this case is to part it out and sell me the track and rail extensions.

The shavings are definately not aluminum as they are magnetic. Here is a pic of the crankshaft rubbing on the case, you can see a piece of metal lifting away.

no triple pipes but they were dome heads.

any possibility extreme flooding/ fuel washing away lubricants could be a suspect?[/b]

Where is the oil inthis botom, did you clean up?, it' s look like a desert! and the cactus grow

where can i get crankshafts rebuilt in western canada? Im new to this sled so is there any popular mods chassis wise? what about big/inner wheels? is this sled pre extra 10/12 suspension?

Canada's leader in engine rebuilding is AAB CVTech.
Click (http://www.cvtech-aab.com/contenu/index_ang.cfm)
Phone them, they will answer all of your questions.

where can i get crankshafts rebuilt in western canada? Im new to this sled so is there any popular mods chassis wise? what about big/inner wheels? is this sled pre extra 10/12 suspension?[/b]
Just about any competent machinist shop can redo your crank, though I'd be sure to find one that's done lots of sleds.
I know if that motor was here in North Bay it'd be back on the snow in a couple of days. The hardest part in rebuilding one of those motors is getting the damn mag off the crank.

well i just ebay'd myself a motor... about 800 big ones after shipping, but came with electronics, triple pipes, carbs, clutches, oil tank blah blah blah... the guy bought it for an ultralite project he never started, and claims it is nearly fresh top to bottom. If this motor blows, you guys can fight over the remains...

well i just ebay'd myself a motor... about 800 big ones after shipping, but came with electronics, triple pipes, carbs, clutches, oil tank blah blah blah... the guy bought it for an ultralite project he never started, and claims it is nearly fresh top to bottom. If this motor blows, you guys can fight over the remains...[/b]
That's simple, though a little risky.
Don't run those triple pipes though. THe monoblock triples make nice power at 9200rpm, but they don't last long at that speed.