Hey everyone, Does anyone have a manual for a 2001 Ski-Doo MXZ 600 std? I'm looking for torque speces on a top end rebuild.

Almost 9,000 miles on my sled before I lost compression in the left cylinder, not too bad. I took the head off and the piston looked like someone took a chizzle to it. I never did find what was banging around in there.

thanks in advance,
Ryan

I will in a couple of day. Bought it yestereday. Will advise then if no one does.

I will in a couple of day. Bought it yestereday. Will advise then if no one does.[/b]

Thank you I appreciate the help.

From what I've found so far it looks like it's 21ft/lb for the head, and 22ft/lb for the cylinder.

Hey everyone, Does anyone have a manual for a 2001 Ski-Doo MXZ 600 std? I'm looking for torque speces on a top end rebuild.

Almost 9,000 miles on my sled before I lost compression in the left cylinder, not too bad. I took the head off and the piston looked like someone took a chizzle to it. I never did find what was banging around in there.

thanks in advance,
Ryan[/b]

Ryan,

You really need to "Root Cause" the failure. From your description of the piston crown it sounds like chronic detonation on that cylinder. Maybe check the carburetor and air box for water intrusion. Check the piston rings for severe flaking and possibly ring locater pin falling out allowing the ring to rotate and hook the exhaust port.

The build specs are:

Flywheel Nut, 125 N-m (92 Lb-ft)
Cylinder head bolts, 29 N-m (21 Lb-ft)
Cylinder to crankcase, 29 N-m (21 Lb-ft)
Crankcase 6mm bolt, 9 N-m (7 Lb-ft)
Crankcase 8mm bolt, 29 N-m (21 Lb-ft)

Be sure to clean the bolt threads with a wire brush and chase the hole threads with a tap or a bolt with grooves filed into it. Apply a tiny amount of grease under the bolt heads to assure acurate torque readings. Replace any bolts that don't give you full torque load (they frequently stretch and are longer good).

Happy wrenching !

Hey everyone, Does anyone have a manual for a 2001 Ski-Doo MXZ 600 std? I'm looking for torque speces on a top end rebuild.

Almost 9,000 miles on my sled before I lost compression in the left cylinder, not too bad. I took the head off and the piston looked like someone took a chizzle to it. I never did find what was banging around in there.

thanks in advance,
Ryan[/b]
WhtUpDo,just in case<<< there mite be bolts for your cylinders that are long and short. and the same for the head. if its like my ski doo, on the cylinder the long bolts go on excaust side...... and the head, the short go on excaust side because of the rave valve. dave from madison

Ryan,

You really need to "Root Cause" the failure. From your description of the piston crown it sounds like chronic detonation on that cylinder. Maybe check the carburetor and air box for water intrusion. Check the piston rings for severe flaking and possibly ring locater pin falling out allowing the ring to rotate and hook the exhaust port.

The build specs are:

Flywheel Nut, 125 N-m (92 Lb-ft)
Cylinder head bolts, 29 N-m (21 Lb-ft)
Cylinder to crankcase, 29 N-m (21 Lb-ft)
Crankcase 6mm bolt, 9 N-m (7 Lb-ft)
Crankcase 8mm bolt, 29 N-m (21 Lb-ft)

Be sure to clean the bolt threads with a wire brush and chase the hole threads with a tap or a bolt with grooves filed into it. Apply a tiny amount of grease under the bolt heads to assure acurate torque readings. Replace any bolts that don&#39;t give you full torque load (they frequently stretch and are longer good).

Happy wrenching ![/b]

Thanks for the specs.

My sled is in the shop right now getting the carbs looked at to root cause the problem. I originally asked them to rebuild the entire thing and get it running for me. They wanted an arm and a leg for the work, so I decided to do it myself. I have rebuit a car engine before so I figured I could handle this. I did however want to find out if everything else was ok so it wouldn&#39;t happen again. That&#39;s why it is in the shop.

I bought a top end rebuild kit, so everything will be cleaned and replaced. I&#39;ll make sure to get all the bolts cleaned and torqued to spec. If I feel like i&#39;m in over my head it&#39;s going back to the shop to get fixed professionally.

WhtUpDo,just in case<<< there mite be bolts for your cylinders that are long and short. and the same for the head. if its like my ski doo, on the cylinder the long bolts go on excaust side...... and the head, the short go on excaust side because of the rave valve. dave from madison[/b]

When I took the bolts out I sepeated and labeled everything. I have been down that road before, :)!
Thanks for the help!

Just an update on my sled. I got the engine rebuilt on Saturday it fired right up and ran good. Well as good as it could run with out being moved. I&#39;m in south east Michigan and we don&#39;t have a lick of snow.

The guy who looked at my carbs said they were ok. He said what could have happened was the left cylinder started to loose compression over time, and kept getting worse. This caused the cylinder to start missing and getiing too hot until it finaly melted the piston crown.

He told me to keep an eye on my plugs and make sure they are both the same color. If one side is burning too hot adjust the carbs.