Need Help Installing Heated Sheild [Archive] - Snowmobile World : Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

: Need Help Installing Heated Sheild


lobsterbait
01-12-2008, 09:41 PM
I have a 1999 Arctic Cat Panther. Where do I connect 2 wires. I had it hooked to the tachometer but I want to hook this up properly.



Please help me.



Thanks

thundercat900
01-12-2008, 10:16 PM
I bought a wire at cat for a few bucks that plugs into a power connector and gives you 4 power outlets from 1. Then I bought a small 2 prong trailer plug. Connected the 2 wires to the plug and plugged it into the new outlet. Works great.

puree
01-12-2008, 11:29 PM
you should have a 2 prong connector behind your speedo. wire colors are brown and yellow. You dont need to adapter from cat as it simply takes you from 1 connection to 2 or 3. You would only need this if you were also going to run a gps or backlights on a temp gauge or something.
Now I assume your heated shield come with an rca type plug that comes from the visor to the hookup, and I assume you have that hookup also as you did have it attached to your tach. simply get yourself a 4 prong trailer lights connector, hook your positive and negative into that (properly,,, use a meter) and then plug it into your plug with the yellow brown wire,,, tape it up so it doesnt come apart on the trail and your good to go.

lobsterbait
01-13-2008, 07:50 AM
Thanks so much for the help. The question I hope is not to dumb is why do I need trailer connector? Can't I just splice into the brown and yellow wires? or is it easier having a trailer connector plug? At the end of my sheild wires there are 2 round metal pieces with attachements. Is that if you have a battery?



Sorry about the questions, I'm just trying to visulize all of this.


Thanks again for helping a new snowmobiler who loves Arctic Cats!!!








you should have a 2 prong connector behind your speedo. wire colors are brown and yellow. You dont need to adapter from cat as it simply takes you from 1 connection to 2 or 3. You would only need this if you were also going to run a gps or backlights on a temp gauge or something.
Now I assume your heated shield come with an rca type plug that comes from the visor to the hookup, and I assume you have that hookup also as you did have it attached to your tach. simply get yourself a 4 prong trailer lights connector, hook your positive and negative into that (properly,,, use a meter) and then plug it into your plug with the yellow brown wire,,, tape it up so it doesnt come apart on the trail and your good to go.[/b]

Turbocat06
01-13-2008, 08:39 AM
Your cable coming from the shield has a two prong male plug to hook into 12 volt power on the sled if I am reading you correctly. You should also have an female connector, with an pig tail on the other end to tap into 12v. , that came with the shield. You need some means of disconnecting the shield from the sled, and this is where the trailer plug comes in, that Puree and the other guys are talking about. If you have the female plug , use it !. If it were me, I would also wire an inline fuse holder on the + side of the pig tail coming from the sled. Find out how many amps your shield draws, in order to buy the proper fuse. Good luck !

puree
01-13-2008, 08:54 AM
if you are comfortable splicing into your 2 wires, by all means, save your money and do it that way. I do like the idea of putting a fuse inline though. Just for that peace of mind that your heated shield doesnt backfeed somehow into your electical system and blow things up (I know it shouldnt happen, but with electricity, ANYTHING is possible.)
Im not sure I catch what your saying about round metal pieces,,, as for your battery, whether you have a battery or not, your still going to get your power from that yellow/brown wire.
if possible, snap a pic of your heated shield, wires you have, and a pic of the area under the hood (backside of your gauges),,, it will make it much easier to help you that way.

lobsterbait
01-14-2008, 06:05 AM
Here are some pictures of my helmet and behind the gauges. Thanks again everybody for all the help.















if you are comfortable splicing into your 2 wires, by all means, save your money and do it that way. I do like the idea of putting a fuse inline though. Just for that peace of mind that your heated shield doesnt backfeed somehow into your electical system and blow things up (I know it shouldnt happen, but with electricity, ANYTHING is possible.)
Im not sure I catch what your saying about round metal pieces,,, as for your battery, whether you have a battery or not, your still going to get your power from that yellow/brown wire.
if possible, snap a pic of your heated shield, wires you have, and a pic of the area under the hood (backside of your gauges),,, it will make it much easier to help you that way.[/b]

lobsterbait
01-14-2008, 06:07 AM
and...






Here are some pictures of my helmet and behind the gauges. Thanks again everybody for all the help.[/b]

jbellingan
01-14-2008, 02:59 PM
and...[/b]

I have the same helmet - bought it this weekend. So I figure you hook it up to the yellow and brown wire. The wires from the shield are red and black, can you connect it in any order?

lobsterbait
01-14-2008, 06:45 PM
Well I have done some minor electrical things but I'm getting really confused :confused:
I have a 12 voltage tester. The yellow wire has power, the brown no power. I figured the brown is a ground. I hooked the red to yellow and black wire to brown. So I put the tester to the bottom wire of the helmet and I have power. I but the tester to the top wire no power :whatever:

I unhooked the black wire from the brown and then I had power to both the top and bottom wire. I thought I was getting somewhere I tried the test again and I only had power to the bottom.

Do I need an Electrical Degree to do this?


I didn't think it would be this hard.

PLEASE HELP...












I have the same helmet - bought it this weekend. So I figure you hook it up to the yellow and brown wire. The wires from the shield are red and black, can you connect it in any order?[/b]

lobsterbait
01-14-2008, 09:21 PM
Any suggestions??? :lookaround:






Well I have done some minor electrical things but I'm getting really confused :confused:
I have a 12 voltage tester. The yellow wire has power, the brown no power. I figured the brown is a ground. I hooked the red to yellow and black wire to brown. So I put the tester to the bottom wire of the helmet and I have power. I but the tester to the top wire no power :whatever:

I unhooked the black wire from the brown and then I had power to both the top and bottom wire. I thought I was getting somewhere I tried the test again and I only had power to the bottom.

Do I need an Electrical Degree to do this?
I didn't think it would be this hard.

PLEASE HELP...[/b]

joezr2
01-15-2008, 08:47 AM
Since I did this last night on my 99' ZR I'll throw in. Mine was wired with the red to the yellow wire and the black to a bolt grounded to the frame. This seemed to work intermittantly so I decided to fix it last night.

But, first, I'm confused as to why you'd take power from the guages? Wouldn't the console (where the key switch is) be a much easier place to wire this in?

Assuming our 99's have similar wiring (probably a good assumption) here's what I did:
I bought a 2-prong trailer plug extender at Autozone for $1.99. I cut one end of it off and soldered it (in the correct orientation) to the black and red wiring you show laying on your floor. The 2-prong plug will plug directly into the empty yellow/brown plug (half of which is occupied, half not) up by the key switch. Then I ran the RCA plug end out of a hole in the console. (Note, if you drill a hole in the console for this plug, put the wire through the console BEFORE connecting the plug-end to it.

No need to cut or tap into wires and it's easily removable if needed by just unplugging.

If I wasn't at work, I'd take the console apart and take a picture for you of the accessory plug I'm talking about. Maybe I can find a diagram... gimme a minute

lobsterbait
01-15-2008, 07:44 PM
I figured it out!!! IT IS THE HELMET!!!





I returned it and got another one.


Thanks again to everyone for their help.










Since I did this last night on my 99' ZR I'll throw in. Mine was wired with the red to the yellow wire and the black to a bolt grounded to the frame. This seemed to work intermittantly so I decided to fix it last night.

But, first, I'm confused as to why you'd take power from the guages? Wouldn't the console (where the key switch is) be a much easier place to wire this in?

Assuming our 99's have similar wiring (probably a good assumption) here's what I did:
I bought a 2-prong trailer plug extender at Autozone for $1.99. I cut one end of it off and soldered it (in the correct orientation) to the black and red wiring you show laying on your floor. The 2-prong plug will plug directly into the empty yellow/brown plug (half of which is occupied, half not) up by the key switch. Then I ran the RCA plug end out of a hole in the console. (Note, if you drill a hole in the console for this plug, put the wire through the console BEFORE connecting the plug-end to it.

No need to cut or tap into wires and it's easily removable if needed by just unplugging.

If I wasn't at work, I'd take the console apart and take a picture for you of the accessory plug I'm talking about. Maybe I can find a diagram... gimme a minute[/b]

joezr2
01-16-2008, 07:13 AM
Glad you got it figured out :)

lobsterbait
01-16-2008, 03:50 PM
OK would someone with an electric sheild please do me a favor or give me an answer. Could someone who has an electric sheild please test the 2 connectors on the sheild. When I hook everything up and I test the sheild I will have either the bottom or the top electric sheild light up. I'm wondering if there is a relay to prevent the sheild from having to much power brought to at is why the shield will intermitent from top to bottom.

If someone who has a electric shield can test to see if both the top part and bottom part light up it will help me answer this question before I permenatly hooking everything up.



Thanks for all your help






Glad you got it figured out :)[/b]

lobsterbait
01-16-2008, 03:51 PM
OK would someone with an electric sheild please do me a favor or give me an answer. Could someone who has an electric sheild please test the 2 connectors on the sheild. When I hook everything up and I test the sheild I will have either the bottom or the top electric sheild light up. I'm wondering if there is a relay to prevent the sheild from having to much power brought to at is why the shield will intermitent from top to bottom.

If someone who has a electric shield can test to see if both the top part and bottom part light up it will help me answer this question before I permenatly hooking everything up.



Thanks for all your help






Glad you got it figured out :)[/b]

lobsterbait
01-16-2008, 06:13 PM
I just need to know if this is right.








I have a 1999 Arctic Cat Panther. Where do I connect 2 wires. I had it hooked to the tachometer but I want to hook this up properly.
Please help me.
Thanks[/b]

rws
01-16-2008, 07:36 PM
hook the red to the yellow sled wire...hook the black to the brown sled wire...please put your meter away!!!

joezr2
01-17-2008, 09:00 AM
I think the question is- does the face sheild alternate between the top and bottom heating element to reduce current draw. Sorry, that I do not know. Mine only has one connector that I can remember.

puree
01-17-2008, 10:22 AM
mine did not switch between the top and bottom, but rws is correct, red is hot on your helmet and yellow is hot on your sled, black is ground on your helmet and brown is ground on your sled. Did you find the connector or did you hard wire it in?? Just a thought, it might not hurt to throw a fuse in the yellow line if you hardwired it in,,, just in case you end up with a short in your cord or your helmet, this way you dont fry things in your sled. I did put a fuse in mine just for piece of mind on my part,,,, I have never blown one, but I am prepared if I ever do,,,

lobsterbait
01-17-2008, 10:35 AM
I did what was suggested I belive by puree which was getting a 2 prong trailer connector and hooking it up to the existing 2 prong connector.
Will I need a fuse as well? Or will that be ok?
I figure the helmet must work on a relay system for it switches. Its probebly done to avoid overloading the helmet.
Thanks again for all the help everyone.
This fourm site is amazing










I think the question is- does the face sheild alternate between the top and bottom heating element to reduce current draw. Sorry, that I do not know. Mine only has one connector that I can remember.[/b]

joezr2
01-17-2008, 12:21 PM
I hard wired mine in w/o a fuse but I should put one in. Puree, what amperage fuse did you use?

lobsterbait
01-19-2008, 02:50 PM
I got the shield working and today was the test with -32 plus the wind chill made it well freezing. The shield worked no fogging at all!!!



Thanks everyone for the help.












I hard wired mine in w/o a fuse but I should put one in. Puree, what amperage fuse did you use?[/b]