So, on my sled, I've been using 87(Shell)/89(Casey's, the 89 is the cheaper there for some reason). I was wondering if maybe I should be running 93(highest I can get).

Also, I had to use some cheapo no name oil last time the oil light came on, I've just been reading up on pour points and all that good stuff, Should I drain the (cheapo)oil I put in and replace it with something different? The cheapo stuff was Do-It-Best brand(hardware store) didn't say anything about TC-W3 or pour points, so I'm kind of worried, but I have done a good 20 miles with the cheap stuff and seen no ill effects yet.

So, on my sled, I've been using 87(Shell)/89(Casey's, the 89 is the cheaper there for some reason). I was wondering if maybe I should be running 93(highest I can get).

Also, I had to use some cheapo no name oil last time the oil light came on, I've just been reading up on pour points and all that good stuff, Should I drain the (cheapo)oil I put in and replace it with something different? The cheapo stuff was Do-It-Best brand(hardware store) didn't say anything about TC-W3 or pour points, so I'm kind of worried, but I have done a good 20 miles with the cheap stuff and seen no ill effects yet.[/b]



I wouldn't use any higher octane fuel than what is called for in your owners manual.
You will feel no increase in performance from running higher octane, and you will definitely see your wallet getting smaller.

As for the oil, if it were my sled I'd have the el' cheapo stuff out a.s.a.p.


Duane

Some brands of "premium" may offer a cleaner fuel although I doubt Casey's would be selling it that way. (Their's is probably an ethanol blend to get 89.) Lower numbers ignite easier which is why we see low in winter and higher in summer. I would stick with the lower numbers especially if you're running where it's colder. By doing that, you'll avoid hard starting problems related to fuel.

I have no problem with cheaper oils. I do have a problem with using oils, especially cheaper oils, which don't indicate or for which there is no information about their quality. On an ordinary, non-valved machine, you can use cheaper oils as long as you see the JASO-FC rating. TC-W3 is an outboard motor rating and isn't really what you want but they can work. Temperature-wise. there are very few oils which will not work as long as you are above 0 , and almost every oil makes at least -20 F for a pour point. FWIW, oils like Phillips Injex, and variations, along with Citgo two Cycle, especially Sea and Snow, are two "bargain" oils which work very well in snowmobile engines even when it gets very cold. There are others, but I'd look at the labels. It's not a good place to cut corners on quality.

Yeah I wouldn't use that oil unless I was out of oil on the trail. If you only put a quart in...I don't want to give you bad advice but I would probably just fill up with good oil and leave the rest of the cheap stuff in there, just this once. If you filled up on "lawn boy" oil (my generic term) yeah I would probably drain it.

Higher octane is only beneficial if your engine requires it. As 63 said, sometimes stations actually do sell better fuel (not just higher octane) in their premium but how do you know which is which? Personally I think if you suspect any problems such as timing issues, lean running, possible intake or exhaust leak, that is the time to run premium (even if your engine normally does not need it) because of the fact that it does burn slower and cooler, it could save your engine from burning up if there is an unknown problem. Also any aftermarket exhaust (especially pipes) or really any mod that is meant to make your sled more powerful, you'd better ensure you have sufficient fuel quality.

I've never seen any downside to running premium (have never experienced hard starting) except it costs more. So if it were me running a stock sled and 89 octane is the same price as 87, I would always run the 89. I always run 92 even in stock sleds (even knowing it is not necessary) and have never had a problem. I've also never had a cylinder overheat despite many intake and exhaust leaks (previous owners are idiots). We ran the SKS for a year with a cracked exhaust header and a 1/4" hole in the left throttle body (somebody took a plug out and forgot it) , but yet absolutely no engine damage once I finally discovered the problems. Are you sure none of your intake boots are cracked? Are you sure a previous owner didn't gut your airbox? Are you sure your exhaust manifold doesn't have a hairline crack? How sure? I firmly believe that my engine would have melted down long ago if I had been running regular. So again, more octane does nothing for performance, but at the same price I would always take more octane for the safety factor.

Good points. When it comes to octane ratings, the only times I have actually seen running issue with too much has been using Aero-fuel low lead (over 100 octane) at -20 F or lower. Even they can work once the engine is warmed up. My perspective is one where we can't buy gas at any regular intervals when traveling. Ordinary fuel is probably a bit more efficient in terms of fuel economy so helps stretch the 15 or 20 gallons of extra fuel we sometimes tow in sleds. I'm sure for most people and their riding habits the extra octane does not hurt a thing so you made a good point about octane beine a safety issue when running modified or damaged engines.

You would be correct that the Casey's gas is a E10 blend, but it is the price of 87 and the 87 is the price that 89 would be elsewhere(it's bassackwards). I'm sure this is in an effort to get people to use the ethanol blend.

I don't have the manual for my sled, so thats why I was asking.

As for the oil I only put in a quart, but it did say for air cooled engines but it was all I could find at that time. Where are some good place to get oil? I have a Polaris dealer down the street and the normal Walmart and Autozone, O'reilleys and Napa. I'm looking for a good low-budget oil and would like to buy by the gallon(or possibly case depending on price).

Right now my sled isn't at my house(I live in the middle of town, so it's sitting out at my aunts) so I'll probably drain the old oil or possibly just dilute it with the new stuff. I'm also thinking it may be a good idea to keep a quart with me for the trails, just in case it gets down that low.

In regards to gas, I would just use the straight stuff. I only add alcohol as a moisture control measure and then only isopropyl when I do. Alcohol seeks water and can draw moisture into itself in blended fuel so, unless you know it's fresh, it's pretty hard to really know the quality.

As far as oil goes, in a standard two stroke motor (one which doesn't have valves which yours doesn't), you can use a good synthetic blend like Polaris Blue. There are also other mineral/ synthetic blends of equal quality available at significant savings if that is important to you. Many times these are oil company brands. Store brands seem to be a real crap-shoot since, like OEM brands it is difficult to learn anything about them.

I am not recommending the following examples, but you can do some basic research to find out how the oils have been tested it you wish. Oil makers usually provide some info.

http://www.docs.citgo.com/msds_pi/10008.pdf

http://www.phillips66lubricants.com/NR/rdo...US2CYCLEOIL.pdf (http://www.phillips66lubricants.com/NR/rdonlyres/F4725C04-CD5B-4299-9DC6-3060C1FEC2A8/0/INJEXPLUS2CYCLEOIL.pdf)

http://www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Pdsheet/Domestic...eSnowmobile.PDF (http://www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Pdsheet/DomesticMarketing/EngineOils/pdf/AdvancedPerformanceSnowmobile.PDF)

http://www.maximausa.com/products/2stroke/tundra.asp

As I said earlier, I have run good, less expensive, non-OEM oils in my engines for many thousands of miles. All I suggest there is to do some research, find an oil dealer who has what you want and buy by the case, or else just stick with OEM oils.

Use AMSOIL HP. Period....