92 Venture - When I pulled the secondary to replace the spring, I noticed that there were no shims b/n the plates. The exisiting belt (aftermarket) was worn, but in fair shape. I'm putting a new Yam belt on it (preventative reasons only) and I'm wondering if I need/should put a shim or two between the plates? I measured the width of the non-OEM belt against the new OEM belt and they're identical (or very close to)? Does the need to shim just depend on where the new belt sits on secondary or should I be using the shims regardless becasue it's a brand new belt? Any help is appreciated. Tahnks

If the shims were removed.... they should have been placed sorta behind/inside the helix. They are just 2 VERY THIN washers.

On this model it should be at least one shim between the sheaves just like a Polaris secondary, the parts diagram implies that you might need two shims on a new belt. Your new belt will probably be too tight at idle without the shims. This will probably cause a squeal at idle, which may be intermittent or constant, but is annoying either way. It may also drag down your idle causing stalling, or the sled may creep away on you. Or it may fit fine, who knows, but it will probably be too tight. You can run the belt too tight if you don't have a shim and you need to ride right now, once you get going there's no difference, the shims only affect idle belt tension by not allowing the sheaves to close fully together.

If the shims were removed.... they should have been placed sorta behind/inside the helix. They are just 2 VERY THIN washers.[/b]

Thanks Rob....yup, I found them. Belt sits a 1/4" off the secondary, but idle was fine. However, once warm, it would squeal a bit when going slow through tighter trails. Also, after rebuilding the secondary (your directions were spot-on and priceless), the primary started to act funny and then got stuck open and wouldn't engage leaving me trail side for a while. It was burning hot and I couldn't push or pull it to re-engage it...it looked as though it was seized to the shaft. Rollers and weights moved freely with no problems though and the spring was not cracked. I was able to gather some oil to use as lube and it started moving again. I assume I need to remove and clean the primary now...replace rollers, weights and spring while it's out? Is this something I should leave to the dealer? If so, is tehre a way I can just bring the clutch in or do they actually need the entire sled? THANKS

On this model it should be at least one shim between the sheaves just like a Polaris secondary, the parts diagram implies that you might need two shims on a new belt. Your new belt will probably be too tight at idle without the shims. This will probably cause a squeal at idle, which may be intermittent or constant, but is annoying either way. It may also drag down your idle causing stalling, or the sled may creep away on you. Or it may fit fine, who knows, but it will probably be too tight. You can run the belt too tight if you don't have a shim and you need to ride right now, once you get going there's no difference, the shims only affect idle belt tension by not allowing the sheaves to close fully together.[/b]


Thanks for the reply Beaxch! You answered my question...much appreciated.

If your primary won't engage check the spider guides they usually get gummed with belt dust. So you can usually just clean them.

If your primary won't engage check the spider guides they usually get gummed with belt dust. So you can usually just clean them.[/b]


Thanks KK, I'm new to sledding and wrenching this year...can you offer some directions on how I go about cleaning the primary? I blew it out with an air compressor really well beofore that ride and it didn't seem to help. Sorry, I'd just hate to pay for a rebuild at the dealer if all it really needed was a cleaning that I could have done myslef....just no idea how to go about it. Thanks in advance.

If you get a clutch puller(need one for the primary) there usually about $20. So first you remove clutch bolt then thread in the puller tighten with a rachet untill its fairly tight, Then if you give it a sharp rap with a hammer the clutch should pop off. If not tighten the puller. Once the clutch is off you can remove the cover. The best way to do this is by having someone hold the cover down while you undo the bolts. This is because you want it to come off staight. Once that is off you ccan clean. The check the spider guides kind of U shaped, should be 3 of them. If they are black you can pry them out with a flat head screw driver and clean up. Scotch-brite pads work good then blow off with air. Then re assemble. Remeber to torque the clutch when you put it back on.

If you get a clutch puller(need one for the primary) there usually about $20. So first you remove clutch bolt then thread in the puller tighten with a rachet untill its fairly tight, Then if you give it a sharp rap with a hammer the clutch should pop off. If not tighten the puller. Once the clutch is off you can remove the cover. The best way to do this is by having someone hold the cover down while you undo the bolts. This is because you want it to come off staight. Once that is off you ccan clean. The check the spider guides kind of U shaped, should be 3 of them. If they are black you can pry them out with a flat head screw driver and clean up. Scotch-brite pads work good then blow off with air. Then re assemble. Remeber to torque the clutch when you put it back on.[/b]

Thanks a ton KK! I appreciate the quick response. I will call the dealer tomorow to see if they have a puller for my seld. I'll follow up once I get at it. When u say to give the puller a rap with a hammer, do you mean I actually hit the end of the puller or somewhere else?

When u say to give the puller a rap with a hammer, do you mean I actually hit the end of the puller or somewhere else?
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Yes you just have to give the puller a quick rap on the end. :)