Was out riding yesterday, stopped for a beverage and some food at a restaurant. Came back out, sled started fine but wouldn't rev over about 6000 rpm... was only getting 30 mph out of it. I had previously driven it 70 miles before that, had 3/4 of a tank of gas. I tried changing the plugs, made sure I had no fuel leaks still the same, so I drove it straight home down the roads.


So I removed the carbs, blew through the ports with an airhose, removed the reed's , everything seems fine. So I removed the exhaust manifold to check the pistons, they also seem fine, compression is good on both sides. I also checked the stator, plug caps, and put two new plugs in it. After doing all this I am only getting 7000-7500 rpm, 60-70 mph then just bogs.

It starts without issue and sounds great, just wont go fully....

Any suggestions?

Well I think i'm going to pull the head off tomorrow to have a look at the pistons, is the gaskets for this typically re usable? Any sleds I have seen in the last 20 years usually its a rubber gasket.

sounds more like a clutch issue to me. has it ever been rebuilt or replaced ?

sounds more like a clutch issue to me. has it ever been rebuilt or replaced ?[/b]

Doubt it. I have only owned the sled for 100 miles(all put on yesterday with the exception of 3), and had to replace the stator at mile 3. It seems too instant to be the clutch. It was fine up to the time I stopped.

+1 clutches

I don't really see how the clutch could make it do that, its not like the spring or anything is broke, its all there, I moved the secondary by hand today, it moves good, the primary is also moving in ok.


I think I might have to just park it before I take a sledgehammer to it, lol

What do they say, if I didn't have bad luck, id have no luck at all?

(I also think it's a clutch issue)
You may have primary clutch issues, sacked out springs, buttons, bushings, a bad belt etc,etc,etc..

Dirty carbs usually rear their ugly heads right off of idle and a plugged main jet will let you know it’s plugged as your piston finds it’s way through the exhaust.
So I don’t think it’s a carb problem.

If you feel the clutches and carbs are a-ok check compression again and make sure the stator you replaced is good and that your track is not hung up acting like a boat anchor.

I moved the secondary by hand today, it moves good,[/b]


this statement alone makes me think secondary spring . look ,I dont want to tell you how to spend your money but a sacked out secondary spring will do the exact thing you are describing in your original post . pull the spring and check the specs on it , K ? Mark

i had the the same issue with my srx, i was only revving to 7 grand and it would only do 40 mph, and when i would let off the throttle immediately it would act as if the brake was on it would slow down so much, turns out my clutches were really dirty and it was not backshifting properly.... Its a clutch issue Steve6, I had my dealer take apart both of my clutches and clean them thoroughly, and it was all back to normal plus more snappy at bottom end, i'd get your clutches looked at, you probably Glazed your belt that is on it from running it like it was, thats what happned to mine and i had to have the spare belt (new) put on.


You say you moved your secondary clutch? by Hand? your not supposed to be able to do that.... there is supposed to be some side to side movement for teh self align witht he sheaves and what not.... unless thats what your talking about, moving that would be irrelevent to your clutches needing work.

I meant I opened it up as if you were opening it to change the belt, used both hands to push the non fixed side out. There is lots of tension and its not binding etc...

+2 clutches

actually.. do you have power valves in that sled?

if so, take off the cover for the servo motor that pull the cables and make sure one of the little ends hasn't fallen out.

if this is the problem, you should probably clean your power valves so they dont stick :p

no power valves

+4 clutches

I didn't see it posted in other replies, but that could also be the beginning stages of a stator failure.
Both stators that I lost in my old ZR600 exhibited the exact same symptoms. It started fine, but it would not pull past 7,000 rpm. Kind of acted like it had a rev limiter.

The stator ohmed out fine until it completely failed.

Just a suggestion.

I didn't see it posted in other replies, but that could also be the beginning stages of a stator failure.
Both stators that I lost in my old ZR600 exhibited the exact same symptoms. It started fine, but it would not pull past 7,000 rpm. Kind of acted like it had a rev limiter.

The stator ohmed out fine until it completely failed.

Just a suggestion.[/b]

never heard that one ... thanks

lol that would just suck balls, how do you diagnose that? maybe ill duct tape the throttle down and let it idle on the jack for a few hours... wtf... I ain't gonna ride it the way it is to find out if its just gonna fail again and strand me in the middle of no where.


The stator as it is, is testing fine. It was just repaired (yes I know they break again, but it is still within spec).


Back to the ole reliable XLT.

Have you actually taken a good in depth look at your clutches or are you just speculating?
I mean, Have you take them off and disassembled them on a bench?

Sure you could have a bad stator if you cheaped out and bought aftermarket.
Have you contacted the stator manufacturer for a replacement under warranty?
I have yet to see a non-oem last more than a season.

However, it really sounds like clutches (+5)
It sounds like you have given up without actually attempting to diagnose the problem.

I'm not trying to be-little you but it seems like your just jaw-jackin and not fixin!

We'll i'm stuck at a point where I have to spend money no matter what....

I'm looking $40 just for a puller (32+ship+tax) or... $75 an hour at a shop. (why does the arctic cat puller have to be $10 more than the rest?)

and I know I know, its only $40.. but its still $40 that might get me no where.

just frustrated, tired of fixing it, want to ride it.

I'm looking $40 just for a puller (32+ship+tax) or... $75 an hour at a shop. (why does the arctic cat puller have to be $10 more than the rest?)

and I know I know, its only $40.. but its still $40 that might get me no where.[/b]
Don't look at it like that...The clutches should be pulled off and cleaned regularly anyways as part of routine maintenance. Even if spending $40 on a puller and cleaning the clutches doesnt fix the current problem, its preventing you from a future clutch problem. The clutches need regular servicing and cleaning, which cannnot be done without a puller or paying a buttload at a dealer. Buy the puller, clean the clutches out and either fix or eliminate them as being part of your problem. The $40 spent for the puller is money much better spent than $75 just for a diagnosis from your dealer. :thumbsup:

If it is the driven spring sagging, you dont need a clutch pulled for that, you simply pull it off.
Do you have a spare belt laying around?? Swap the belt and see if that makes any difference at all. If the belt was to have gone, it shouldnt have happened that sudden, but if you can rule it out that easy, do it,,,,
Why dont you also run a black marker across your sheaves and then run it that way,,, see how far your clutches are opening up??

I think its in your drive clutch,,, possibly a binding issue. Could be a bad bushing in a weight allowing it to swing to the side causing a bind,,, Could also have a situation where something got in there with the spring and isnt allowing it to compress all the way,,,

If it is a binding issue, it is something that could have come on very quickly,,,

I think its what versatileman stated, the stator, I have emailed the person who did the repair and I will see what they say. It does have a 1 year warranty, but since its not testing out of spec, I don't know what they will say?!! I have two more weeks to leave them neg feedback on ebay, so i'll do that if they ignore me =)


I removed the belt (yes I know, not the greatest for the engine/clutch) and revved it up and it does the same thing, kicks out at about 7000 rpm. The clutch is coming in and out just fine.

I removed the belt (yes I know, not the greatest for the engine/clutch) and revved it up and it does the same thing, kicks out at about 7000 rpm. The clutch is coming in and out just fine.[/b]
well I wouldnt have suggested it but it is a good indicator

I am not saying that it is the stator for certain, but it sounds likely - especially if it is a rewind. I have one here for a zr600 that was rewound - 3 times. I got tired of sending it back so it is a paper weight on my tool box. I gave up and bought a factory part and ventilated the flywheel housing.
I know some people have had good luck with rewinds, I have not.
Contact your rewinder and tell him what it is doing, most of them will try and make it right.

I still would not rule out clutching, but I would analyze it like this:
If it idles ok, runs good and sounds normal but acts like it hits a wall at a certain RPM it is likely a stator, cdi, or other electrical issue.
If it idles ok but acts sluggish, has too high or two low a clutch engagement and acts like it is in the wrong gear it is likely in your clutching. Look for broken primary or secondary clutch springs (worn springs do not work fine one minute and act massively different one second later - but broken ones do) and check clutches for any binding).

If you haven't looked your clutches over good, you need to anyway. If you want the sled to be reliable you need to make sure they are right.

I contacted them, they are going to change it in 'good faith'.

As for the way it runs(clutches), everything was the same until it got over about 7000 rpm's, they would just boooooooooooooooooooog. I have checked them and they do not appear to have any major defects, they open and close without binding etc.

The (second) stator repair has fixed this issue, I have drilled holes in the bottom of the casing to ventilate some air in there.

Hopefully it does not happen again.

Its too bad I wont be getting much riding in now :(

glad you got it fixed!