1994 indy sport 440 bogging [Archive] - Snowmobile World : Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

: 1994 indy sport 440 bogging


rdstude
12-07-2008, 08:27 PM
I just got this sled from my brother. I pulled the carbs ,cleaned them and cleaned the gas tank out. Now it bogs and won't stay running. Any sugestions would be greatly appreciated.

FacePlant
12-08-2008, 01:45 AM
I just got this sled from my brother. I pulled the carbs ,cleaned them and cleaned the gas tank out. Now it bogs and won't stay running. Any sugestions would be greatly appreciated.

a few things ,, first how did it run when you got it?? same thing ?? if so I experienced this with my polaris 500 indy trail,, sent it in for new needles and seats for the carbs and fuel pump rebuild,, all said and done only about 200$ but still ran abit off,, one friggin pesky thing that may be your only problem is check the line from your engine block to the fuel pump if it leaks it will run that way,, mine leaked abit after the work changed it and 100% difference,,

rdstude
12-08-2008, 01:49 PM
Thanks, I will try that line I replaced all of them except that one. Anyone know what the fuel air mixture should be set at?

162Whiskey
12-10-2008, 03:01 PM
The air fuel mixture is controlled throughout the range of operation by various needles, jets, and the throttle slide. Assuming they were put back the way they should have been, there are only two things which might otherwise need adjustment: the jet needle clip setting, and the air pilot screw. The jet needle clip (the jet needle is the "toothpick-like" needle sticking down out of the throttle valve slide) should be in the #2 or #3 position as counted from the top. The pilot screw should be turned one to one-and-a-half turns out from fully, but very lightly seated.

Also, make sure your idle screws - the big ones on the side- are turned in far enough to achieve a decent idle RPM.

rdstude
12-14-2008, 03:52 PM
I pulled the carbs off again, made sure they were good and clean. I changed the vacuum line between the fuel pump and the block. The jet needle clip was in the third position I moved them to the second spot. I also pulled the fuel pump apart and it looked good. All back together now and it still won't run right. It seems like I'm not getting enough fuel?

162Whiskey
12-15-2008, 10:14 AM
Does it run at all?

Does it simply fail to engage the drivetrain and pull - is that when it bogs?

Did you check the air pilot screws? (The small ones on the right hand side of the carbs?

Are they the right carbs for that machine with all the correct components?

Are you sure everything was put back in exactly as it should have been?

How much did you remove? Did you remove the pilot jet? Clean it? The needle jet?

If it was running when you started, it is probably an operator error problem. If your brother sold it because "it didn't run right", it could be components.

The more info you can provide, the better.

rdstude
12-15-2008, 01:49 PM
I for got to mention that it runs. My brother sold it to me becouse it was too under powerd for him. I started it when I got home with it but only breifly. I did adjust the pilot air screws. As for the carbs they appear to be stock. It still starts right up and starts to idle then when you give it gas it it bogs. I can keep it running if I feather the throttle.

retiredpop
12-15-2008, 11:15 PM
Flip the choke halfway on when it bogs to see if that helps. If it does then you are looking at a lean bog. Did you set the floats when you had the carbs apart? Maybe you bent the float arms by accident so now they are shutting off the fuel before the bowls have enough gas in them. Floats should be parallel with the carb body when you hold the carbs upside down.

162Whiskey
12-17-2008, 05:33 PM
When you pulled an cleaned the carbs, how much did you remove and clean? Did you pull and inspect the pilot and needle jets? Both have passageways that are critical to getting fuel and air mixed properly.

rdstude
12-19-2008, 03:29 PM
I didn't pull any thing out of them. I just pulled them apart and sprayed carb cleaner through them.

Iam gonna pull them back off today and see if I can get this figured out.

I should add that chokeing it dosn't seem to make a difference how it runs.

Thanks for all the sugestions, this is an ausome site!

162Whiskey
12-20-2008, 12:36 PM
I will refer you to a site we are working on. It has some pics that may be helpful in taking apart and cleaning a carb. It also shows - and will show more- of the places where junk can get in a foul things up.

http://wiki.bssd.org/index.php/Float_Bowl_Parts

rdstude
12-20-2008, 07:43 PM
Thanks, that will help.

rdstude
12-21-2008, 01:17 PM
I had the carbs apart again. It has 180 main jets in it. I pulled all the jets and the needle and seat. Everything looked clean.

rdstude
12-27-2008, 01:39 AM
I took this sled to a sled shop. They are telling me that I have a problem with the lower end (crank seals and possibly crank bearings). Is this possible or are they trying to pull me in for unnessary work?

162Whiskey
12-27-2008, 02:00 AM
It could be. And those seals are quite easily replaced if you have some mechanical skill. You need to pull the flywheel (with a flywheel puller), as well as the clutch, also with a puller. Aside from that, all you need to do to change seals is remove the lower half of the crankcase, clean each case half sealing surface, slide new seals on the crank, squeeze a small bead of liquid case sealing material on the mating surface, and put the case back together and torque things up. Make sure the stator plate goes back on exactly as it was. (Mark it with a scratch awl or even a Sharpie marker along the edge to create witness marks.)

However, before you go taking the engine out, I thing I'd check a couple of things. Did the shop actually test the seals or did they give you a best "guess/strong hunch"? You can test the PTO end seal by spray a bit of starting fluid or WD-40 behind the inside sheave when the engine is running. (If that seal is leaking - its the most likely one- it will both "blow out" and "suck in" as the piston moves up and down. When it sucks in, it will pull in some of the spray and give that side more fuel which should "perk it up" a bit as it idles.) I would also check really carefully to see if you can move the crank sideways at all - just a tiny bit. In order for those seals to leak, the most likely way is for the bearings to have some play in them. They don't easily simply wear out. Perhaps your engine is high mileage though: 12-15,000 or so. That might warrant the problem (though I have seen many engines get that far with zero seal issues and very strong bearings.)

The 180 main jet is correct.

What kind of miles and use has that engine seen? Stored indoors or out in the offseason?

rdstude
12-30-2008, 11:03 AM
I pulled the moter last weekend and replaced it with an 488 fan out of a 89 indy trail. Changed the main jets to 225s and put 35 pilot jets in it. Also changed the needle and seat in both carbs since I had them apart again. The sled runs good now. I think I will pull that 440 apart when it worms up a bit this spring. Thanks for all the help.

billww
12-30-2008, 11:26 AM
Also try running carb cleaner in the gas make sure your fuel filter is not clogged up. Check sparkplug gap and start the sled at night see if the spark plug wires are arking