Against the gas tank the gas is leaking. What do you recommend I do? Is this an easy fix? The gas is dripping from that white nut.

Also, what's with the tube that doesn't go anywhere?

Thanks!

Remember those things, just don't remember if they are threaded into the fuel tank or pressed in.. Might as well go ahead and get the new white nut fitting thingy. See if it is threaded, which will tell you it turns out.. Just going to guess it is starting to break done from the fuel.. If you can get it out with out breaking it which I doubt.. Put some teflon tape around it and reinstall or just put the new one in also with T-tape one or two wraps.. As for the hose to nowhere.. I believe that is a breather for your oil and fuel tank just t'ed together.. Believe it is routed down in case it would get fuel or oil in to drain out..

Since teflon tape is a thread lubricant and not a sealer, and the fitting and tank are both plastic, I would take it apart, clean both parts dry with brake-cleaner, then assemble using Hylomar as a sealant. Hylomar is just about the only sealer that will withstand the ethanol in fuel. Do not ever use silcones for fuel.
Replace all the hoses too.

Where can I get the hoses?

If I replace the nut, where do I purchase it from?

Thanks.

I think all gas tanks are different. On one of my sleds it was just a plastic grommet that slid into the tank. The tube to nowhere is just a vent tube so when the gas gets taken out of the tank, air can get in the tank to take its place. That nut just looks like it should unscrew. And just curios, what sled is that?

1979 Arctic Cat Trail Cat

That white nut almost looks like brass in the pic. However, assuming it is white, it must be nylon. The side inside the tank also has a barb on it to which the fuel pickup line is attached, so it isn't just a simple barb. Still, there are those made which ar brass. I would suggest getting one of those. The threads are pipe threads so they are tapered and will seal better as they are threaded farther in. I would tighten the fitting a bit more (either the present one or a new, metal one.) It the threads in the tank's plastic are too "worn" to hold and seal, I would go to an auto supply store and get one of the best hose clamps they sell, one that will fit over the nipple on the tank. Usually you can squeeze these polyethylene materials enough to get a tigher fit. It's save having to look for a "new" tank if you can't get this one to work. A gas leak is not worth messing with from either a health or a safety standpoint.

the hose thats unhooked, that shouldn't be a breather if it goes back to the reserve oil tank, Where does that other line go after the T fitting, that one is most likely your breather, the short line was hooked up to something, look at the end, its flared out, what line feeds the oil pump, To me the gas and oil lines looks to be messed up. Are you mixing the oil, Try to get a manual, them trail cats, were great sled for there time.
good luck, Dean

Here are some diagrams.

The problem for me is I don't even know what to ask for when I go to the auto parts store.

Also, don't know if this helps, but the sled will run for about 20-25 secs and then shutdown, giving gas or giving no gas.

That's the fuel pump directly under the tank fuel fitting. Your machine not running for long may be related to the pump not working properly. (Does it run longer if the tank is full? That helps get around a pump issue due to gravity.) You might also have issues in the carburetor.

Didn't seem to run any longer with the tank full.

So, I actually got the cat running a bit. A few things I noticed...

The Sled was having issues running, it was cutting out after about 15-20 seconds. I left the choke on and drove it around the yard a bit and seemed to have no issues as long as I continued to give it some gas. As I was driving around, I turned the choke off and the sled would eventually cut off, unless I kicked the choke back on. Still don't understand what's going on there?!

Also, regarding the gas leak, I looked closer and found a crack in the plastic (tank) around the nut. Take a look at the pic... how the heck do I fix that?

the hose thats unhooked, that shouldn't be a breather if it goes back to the reserve oil tank, Where does that other line go after the T fitting, that one is most likely your breather, the short line was hooked up to something, look at the end, its flared out, what line feeds the oil pump, To me the gas and oil lines looks to be messed up. Are you mixing the oil, Try to get a manual, them trail cats, were great sled for there time.
good luck, Dean
The end of that line may be flared out slightly but it isn't flared out like it was on a barbed fitting. There is a slight oil/dirt residue on the end of the line that clearly shows it has been exposed to the elements for a long while. The end of the line going into the oil tank is 100% the breather. It is going into the top of the oil tank, the oil supply line going to the pump will come from the bottom of the oil tank. As others have mentioned the third "T'd" line is most likely the fuel tank vent just "T'd" into the oil vent. The other side of that line will most likely run to a grommet somewhere near the top of your fuel tank.
As for how to fix a crack in a plastic tank....not sure there is a safe fix. They make plastic gas tank repair patches for automotive applications....but I dont think they would hold around a grommet like that...too much stress in that particular area.

Trust me having gas spilling into the engine compartment of a snowmobile is a BAD BAD thing. I know first hand....79 Yamaha, the gas tanks were 100% under the hood, like a jet-ski. The vent tube was too short. All the way down the mountain it was fine.... soon as I headed up the mountain, gas started spilling out the vent tube then BOOOOOOM hood flies off and I had major flames in my face. Amazingly we got the fire out before the tank itself caught. We bungee'd the semi melted hood back on, lenghtened the vent tube and rode it for the rest of the weekend. HAHAHAHA the memories. :tounge:

So it's probably best to buy a new fuel tank? I'm guessing around $100 or something...

Do you know why the sled runs with the choke on, but cuts off when it's off?

Thanks for the info!

So it's probably best to buy a new fuel tank? I'm guessing around $100 or something...

Do you now the sled runs with the choke on, but cuts off when it's off?

Thanks for the info!

Yup. The pump may be pulling in air from the crack.
getting an epoxy to stick will be a problem. They do make specific bonding cements for different p;astics, but you have to identify what the tank is made of first. $100 is cheaper than a fire or a useless repair.

Do you by any chance know where I can get a replacement fuel tank?

I am guessing they don't manufacture that part anymore, but I could be wrong.

I did a google search, but wasn't having much luck.

The tank might be found in one of various sno-go boneyards. Your engine sounds like it might be having seal issues which allow air in through the crankshaft ends.

Thanks for the information.

Do you think it's possible to purchase a current snowmobile's fuel tank and fit it in?

I'm sure to catch flack for this but, Go to Auto Zone and get some J B Weld Putty.. Works wonders.. I only say this till you find a replacement tank, but no doubt it would hold forever.. The putty I have only seen this year, so it must be a new thing.. But works awesome.. wet, dry, oil covered.. Hell can even apply underwater.. As for your choke problem, IMO i would start with the easy stuff first and I'll bet it's a partially clogged main jet or high speed jet whatever ya wanna call it.. Check the carb or carbs over first before ripping the motor down too do crank seals, I'm not even sure if you have to rip it apart to do that, but again IMO carbs first..
ps: for those that don't know
IMO= in my opinion..

To check the PTO side crank seal you just need a can of carb cleaner. Start the machine and try to get it idleing. Then spray the carb cleaner behind the primary clutch toward where the crank goes into the main case. If the idle changes at all while spraying the cleaner, you have a crank seal leak. I'm not sure if the MAG side seal is accesible like that..if so it can be checked the same way.

I'm sure to catch flack for this but, Go to Auto Zone and get some J B Weld Putty.. Works wonders.. I only say this till you find a replacement tank, but no doubt it would hold forever.. The putty I have only seen this year, so it must be a new thing.. But works awesome.. wet, dry, oil covered.. Hell can even apply underwater.. As for your choke problem, IMO i would start with the easy stuff first and I'll bet it's a partially clogged main jet or high speed jet whatever ya wanna call it.. Check the carb or carbs over first before ripping the motor down too do crank seals, I'm not even sure if you have to rip it apart to do that, but again IMO carbs first..
ps: for those that don't know
IMO= in my opinion..


I went to the JB Weld website. It said this product would work on PVC & ABS, but no other plastics. Anyone know what these tanks are made out of?

Years back I repaired a Sthil weed whacker useing 3-M 5200 boat hull sealant it takes a week to set up and is like halomar or Pro-seal only this is a single base sealant (not a 2 part catalist type sealant) the 5200 sets up to a rubbery type consistancy and will stick to justabout anything as long as it is free of oil's
The crank shaft seals may be bad but then it could also be a dirty carb (plugged idle jet) as the start jet is working so its getting gas there.
it sounds like the idle is blocked and not getting gas..

in 1990 I had bought a old Yamaha ET 340 (a early version of a enticer)
first couple days I had it i managed to blow the crank seals
so it was overhaul time had a buddy do the engine work while it was out he went through the machine with me, we pulled the carburator and replaced the main jet, pulled the clutches and went thru both& undercarrage found a cracked swing arm, the hy-fax's were shot
all the boggey bearings were hosed, the jack shaft bearings (sealed) were replace, shocks and skags, the gastank had a twinky size stick and 7 stones in it as well as a fill spout off a jerry jug along with so much water it was amazeing it ran at all, the engine tub was also a area of allot of work, the fuel pump was mounted on the tunnel and was moved up, pulsor line weather checked and cracked,chain case had a tar like substance that was supposed to be oil, lots of fileings on a magnet, all the fuel lines were so hard they broke
I added a shut off valve, primer,inline fuel filter.

Sometimes totally pulling it down and going thru it helps in tracking down little problems and preventing them from becoming big problems.

Fuel tanks are made from one of several types of polyethylene, a naturally releasing form of plastic. Consequently, there are very few materials that will bond to it. Epoxy will not. And a crack where in that location is subject to the stress of that taper-threaded (pipe-thread) fitting. I suspect the tank is a bit degraded from contact with fuel and perhaps environment over time. Polyethylene, like many plastics, will gradually break down over time.

There may be a number of different machines made by 'Cat which are identical. I would try to find out if there are. Then look for a place that does salvage. I would think you could get a tank for well under $100 from a place that deals in salvage.

Your engine running problem could be a number of things. It does sound like a fuel problem of some sort so looking at anything in the fuel intake and supporting functions is likely where you'll find the problem.It could simply be a plugged circuit in the carb which isn't carrying its weight. Sometimes even a very simple machine can be fouled by a tiny link - in this case it could be a very small passageway being plugged. (I wish I knew what kind of carb you have in it.)

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm fairly new.

I found a fuel tank at the sled shed dot com, but it's just the fuel tank. Do I need the fuel tank, plus fuel line? What all do I need?

Thanks.

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm fairly new.

I found a fuel tank at the sled shed dot com, but it's just the fuel tank. Do I need the fuel tank, plus fuel line? What all do I need?

Thanks.
If you found a tank good!! gas lines are easy to get, and very easy to install,, just pay attention to what goes where.... Alot of folks have givin good advice here,,, hopefully your work will just consist of fuel, tank, lines, pump.. Your paying your dues here, working on a older sled that should still have much life left in her,,, just be patient!! you will learn as you go!! and there are no dumb questions,,, just try and explain your questions accurately, and what youve done, and how it affected your sled...... good luck with this!!!