Hey guys new member here seems like a really good forum.Having a weird problem with my sons 96 zrt 600.Last winter we were out and the motor started to mis after 6700 rpms,then the duel lead coil failed.So I thought that was the problem but no.Then we were out on a ride and we stopped for gas after filling up, the machine was idling fine but as soon as you gave it any gas 2 cyls,would cut out .{the ones with the duel lead coil].Anyway after fooling around a bit we found if we turned off the hand and thumb warmers it ran fine,other than that mis at 6700 rpm. A couple days later we went for a ride every thing was fine until we stopped for a coffee when he tried to start it it fired once and that was it no spark.I thought it might be the stator.It was the end of the season so we just parked it.Now we're about to start to work on it and the darn thing started right up!Any ideas of what could be wrong?O ya I forgot to mention that I did clean the carbs to see if that was the problem for the miss but no,I couldn't anything wrong there either. Sorry for the long post.

Check and clean all your grounds and electrical connections.

It almost sounds like the saftey kill switchs for the carbs

I don't think it could be the safety switches on the carbs as they do not turn off carbs individually, they are just part of a system that would turn off the whole sled.

If I had to guess, I would say check out the Stator. Those things can be real funny in their symptoms, They will work cold than fail when warm, or work warm than fail when they cool off a little. Once you check out the connections and grounds as suggested above, you should use a meter to check the resistances on the various windings in your stator. There have been a number of posts here, and on the Arctic chat and HCS sites about how to do this. Be sure to check it when both cold and warmed up

Thanks guys I'll test the stator hot and cold.I know we lost spark altogether on our last ride last winter and now its back.It runs great right now so I didn't think it was the stator I didn't think they would work again once they failed.I will bypass the Saftey and kill switch's.I just finished cleaning the grounds and other connections.I did fined a lose connector on one coil.Could that have been the problem?

I would agree, stator.

If it happens to run bad again before you narrow it down, try bypassing at the main four prong to remove most of your electrical to see if it helps at all.

I tested the stator and it seems okay hot or cold its still with in spec's.But it isn't really cold out yet,so I don't know if it'll get worse when it dose.Can a stator quit and then start to work again?We did bypass the carb safety switches and the tether switch because ti looked like someone had trouble with it before.There was a screw in the cap so I thought they put it in to try to make the switch make contact.The sled runs great right now?

The safety switch deal can certainly affect the way the engine fires. A partially or poorly grounding switch can even cause firing intermittently which can cause some very confusing symptoms. One way to eliminate all of that potential is to disconnect the ground wire near the stator. If you have a single, usually black/dark wire coming out of the bundle of wires from the engine, that will generally circumvent all the switches including key and emergency shut-offs. (You have to be careful as the engine can then not easily be shut off.) The engine electrical circuit portion of the stator generally either works or it doesn't. The power for the rest of the machine can become faulty due to breakdown or fault in the coil(s) (such as a broken wire or loose connection.)

it sounds to me like a loose connection or a wire broke in the stator. the same problem happened to my buddys xl500

Well we went for a ride the other night his sled ran great until we were playing in the powder.Then it started to miss fire.We limped it home and found the duel lead coil was sparking right were the spark plug wire goes into the coil.This was a brand new after market coil maybe had 100 kms. on it.Can I unscrew the wire and cut it and put it back on to fix the problem?Or am I going to have to replace the hole coil and wires?