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yamaha phazer

7K views 6 replies 2 participants last post by  mliedel 
#1 ·
runs good now just that when I turn the handwarmers on it sputters and wants to die when you hit the gas at 30 mph any help will be appreciated I replaced the regulater 3 years ago cause the front light kept burning out thanks
 
#2 ·
There should be no relation between the handwarmers and the ignition circuit. They are two separate circuits from the stator so I would suspect your clutches need to be cleaned and adjusted.
 
#4 ·
Okay here goes. I am assuming your Phazer is pre 1998.
First of all do you have a primary clutch puller tool to pull the smaller clutch off the engine? It's easier to work on the clutch if it is removed but not necessary for basic maintenance. If you don't have a puller you can still check some things in the primary clutch by removing the cover bolts with the clutch in the machine. Back them out in equal increments until they are all loose. Pay attention to how the cover is lined up in relation to the rest of the clutch. The clutch is balanced from the factory so needs to go back together the same way. There are some factory alignment marks (usually an x to line everything up). Best thing to do is scribe a line with a felt marker from the cover edge to the rest of the clutch to aid in reassembly.
With the cover removed you can remove the primary spring and check for proper length to see if it is out of spec. Also check the clutch weights to ensure they pivot freely on their pins and that they don't have flat spots worn on the face. You should not be able to rock them very much on the pivot pins. If things look good then clean everything with hot soapy water and a bristle brush, rinse with hot water and blow dry with compressed air. Check that the moveable sheave slides easily without binding and that there is not excessive wear on the plastic sliders. Check the rollers that the weights ride on to ensure they spin and don't have flat spots and are not sloppy on their pins. Do not lubricate anything. Reassemble clutch.

For the secondary clutch remove the retaining bolt and remove the clutch from the jackshaft. Take note of the positions and number of all washers and spacers as they are vital to clutch alignment. The secondary clutch is tricky because you need two sets of hands or proper tools to disassemble it. Working from the back side of the clutch you need to push down on the helix enough to remove the circlip using snap ring pliers. Let the spring push the helix up and take note of the 1/3 turn of pretension on the spring. You will have to turn the sheave that 1/3 of a turn on reassembly. Before lifting the helix too far out carefully look and take note of the position of the secondary spring holes. One end will hook into holes marked as A, B, or C. The other end will hook into holes marked as 1, 2, or 3. Once you have the secondary apart check the ramps on the helix to make sure they are smooth. Also look at the ramp buttons and replace if they are worn. Best thing is to replace them as they are inexpensive. When you have the two clutch sheaves separated you will notice some big washer between them. They are used to adjust belt deflection so unless your drive belt was quite loose just leave them. Again clean everything well and reassemble without lubrication. Remember to pretension the secondary spring or your sled will barely move.
 
#7 ·
ok I think it was the set of handwarmers I put on had a high an low switch and was an of brand so I took it of and hooked them up to the old switch on the snowmobile and seem to stop acting like it was but now only the throttle side is working please help
 
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