I am looking for some info on what type of mods I can do for cheap on a 2000 Mountain Lite.
I have access to machine shop so I can mill the heads. Anyone have any specs?
How about some used performance exhaust?????
Another idea I have been kicking around it widening the front end. I assume it would entail more than just replacing the tie rods, radius rods and shocks... I guess what I'm really wondering is the mounting plate for the trailing arms the same on the regular Phazer and the Mountain Lite?
Will other Yamaha skis bolt right on this thing? I would like to ditch the stock skis and get something that will turn a little better...
you can check the your current squish with some solder wire..... i dont know how much you can mill off the head to be in the safe zone with the squish but prehaps some one else can on here
Afraid I can't give you any helpful information at this time but I have a related question.
Do the 2000's have canted (tilted) plugs like the earlier Phazers? I'm looking for a way to machine my (1991) heads but the only way I've seen to cut them down is chucking them in a lathe using a custom fixture. Straight plug heads are simple.
Will you be using a lathe or mill? Just looking for some ideas.
on my 85 phazer i have a psi pipe, reeds, a diff clutch spring and preformance pistons, it improved the preformance by a lot, she has no prob stayin with the newer 500's and some 600's , but still kept it fairly easy on fuel and so far the reliability is still there, it works for me
no offense or anything, but iof your running 95 psi in both cylinders, i suggest rebuilding your sled before you do any type of engine work. 95 psi is not very healthy and will cause your cylinder to oval out. rebuild your sled and then check the compression. at 150psi or more you have to run race gas to prevent detonation. acfter a rebuld you should have 125-130 psi. i personally think you are in the safe zone to have 1/1000 milled off
no offense or anything, but iof your running 95 psi in both cylinders, i suggest rebuilding your sled before you do any type of engine work. 95 psi is not very healthy and will cause your cylinder to oval out. rebuild your sled and then check the compression. at 150psi or more you have to run race gas to prevent detonation. acfter a rebuld you should have 125-130 psi. i personally think you are in the safe zone to have 1/1000 milled off[/b]
i have an 84 enticer 340 thats pushing 125psi in both cylinders cold. and the top end was fresh 5 years ago......... thats where im getting my assumptions from. i also have a blaster pushing 130 psi. and im not sure about my 440 xcr. but keep in mind that the enticer and blaster both have stock heads............
i have an 84 enticer 340 thats pushing 125psi in both cylinders cold. and the top end was fresh 5 years ago......... thats where im getting my assumptions from. i also have a blaster pushing 130 psi. and im not sure about my 440 xcr. but keep in mind that the enticer and blaster both have stock heads............[/b]
When I was driving home yesterday I remembered that I'm waiting on a borrowed compression tester to verify these numbers. It seems a little strange that both sleds would pump the same psi.
I need to verify these compressions with at least another gauge if not two before I get crazy.
That Blaster number is interesting considering it's a free air motor...
I will research this some more and post backup info....
I do have a tester...it just doesn't have much trust from me right now.
I plan on getting another one, but to say funds are tight right now would be an understatement.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Snowmobile World
587.8K posts
201.3K members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to snowmobile owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, troubleshooting, trails, maintenance, riding tips, modifications, classifieds, accessories, and more!