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Arctic cat F7 not getting Traction

21K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  jerryl_16 
#1 ·
I have a 2004 F7 not getting traction, it will not even lift the skis.
It has over 170 studs and an exhaust can, I dont know what to do.I need help setting it up.
 
#2 ·
Hmmm, studs on a snopro F7, and it won't raise front end,,, there are lots of ways to set these F's up, it actually says so in the manual... So is the sled still spinning the track?? and if the track isn't spinning, the sled should really be accerating hard, regardles if the front end is in the air, this sled has, what either 1.25 inch lug track or 1.5?? imho, aftermarket cans don't do much but maybe save a few pounds, so i wouldn't thing that would make your engine NOT make power all over the rpm range,, maybe you have to much ski pressure, and or not enough weight tranfer to rear.... just wish i could actually ride mine...:cussing: gl! let us know on this......
 
#8 · (Edited)
No matter how you set this sled up your still going to get some track spin from a dead stop. These sleds are super light and have alot of power thats capable of breaking the track loose easily... I find not dropping the hammer from a dead stop is the best fix. Only crack it about 1/4 to half way as you throw all your weight down toward the back of the seat, then roll into full throttle. I win plenty of drag races on the ice and thats how I usually do it. I am 145 lbs with 120 beat as can be studs, and I don't have any problems lifting ski's/taking off.
If I recall correctly you had atleast one if not two threads going about your traction issues last season also. I know alot of help/info has been thrown your way on this issue already. A couple of things I know have been suggested to you are getting the adjustable limiter strap kit or loosening the stock strap, remove the weight transfer blocks in the rear, and soften up the rear shock..... What have you tried? Just wondering because your most recent post says 170+ studs and a can......(Which the can has absolutly no bearing on your traction issues, and is a whole nother topic in itself as to WHY you would put a can on a F7 when they are proven to do nothing but slow these machines down.) Your post says nothing about any previously made attempts to gain traction. People cannot help you if you don't tell them what you've already tried.
Good luck with your issues. :mellow:
 
#10 ·
Can't help you with the traction problem as I'm riding a ZR that I absolutely love.

You gotta be kidding about the can for sound right? The last thing I want to hear is my buddies sled screaming and the next to the last thing that I want to hear is MY sled screaming. I won't even ride with someone that has a can. All you do is pi$$ people of when you should be trying to be respectful to the peoples land and privacy that your rding on. Can you imagine someone riding through your backyard @ 2:00 am with a can and jumping on the throttle?

JMHO, but then again I'm getting old and laid back at 45 LOL
 
#12 · (Edited)
If you have already done all of the suspension related things mentioned then the next thing to look at is clutching as MattyE said. It is very possible your clutch was set for way too much hole-shot. I'm not too knowledgable on clutching setups, only know the basic mechanics of them. Someone else may have to chime in here and tell you what needs to be done. If I'm reading this chart right, according to the 2003 A/C snowmobile service manual its saying 2003 Firecats with stock clutching should engage at 3700 RPM and Peak RPM 7800-8000. 2003 and 2004 are the same setup. If your not engaging somewhere around 3700 RPM then your clutch is either A.) not a stock setup, B.)the settings have been changed drastically, or C.) is dirty or worn and not working properly. If it were my sled I would be looking at the clutch now that all suspension changes have been made, having not solved much of the problem.
Good Luck with it and keep us posted if any changes.
 
#13 ·
best set up i have come across is adjusting the front ski pressure as light as possible. then the front shock in the rear suspension is also light as possible. I actually loosened it until it rattled then tightened it half a turn. then I have the rear spring blocks on 3 as I weigh over 250 pounds. I would put your blocks back in,,, pulling them out will make your suspension break down sooner and should help you lifting the skis, but will throw your weight transfer off. As for your limiter strap, DO NOT LOOSEN IT BEYOND STOCK,,, this can cause serious problems with your front shock in the suspension. I would almost run it in the stock setting.
Last but not least, get rid of the can. I have yet to see a can that showed more power on the dyno. Less weight is true, but the can WILL make your sled slower. I have many many passes on the radar with cans from various companies and NONE are faster than stock.
 
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