Xtra-10 Settings?

[ebgb68]

Here's a link to look at. This is where I'm at now,thought I would try this.

http://www.off-road.com/snowmobile/project...ct/pps/pps.html

[Polar_Bus]

All of these suggestions are right on the money for a "ski-yankin', snow flap blastin', stud spittin' holeshot terror, BUT let me give you a little tip, most of the above mentioned adjustments will definately compramise cornering bite. Too much weight transfer on the Xtra-10 will develop a nasty push throttleing out of the corners. So try to dial in a happy medium, of good holeshot traction, and good cornering. Good luck,
Rich K.

[Popeye]

I agree, no handling through the corners = trees and brush. I'm in process of getting things repaired and cleaned up, so in the mean time I'm eager to learn more about the xtra-10. What does the frss control? The soaking up of stutter bumps? If I understand correctly, it determines how soon the front of the skid borrows travel or coupling from the rear? So, does a high setting (nub to the back) mean I will handle the stutters better / sooner or harsher ride? Does the rrss then control weight transfer? Does further back equal more transfer? When or why would I move the shaft lower within the scissors? Not that I want to, but I would like to satisfy the thirst for knowledge on this beast. Just killing time waiting for parts and trying to determine what setup I start with. I think Michahicks has a good starting point, but I do know where I am at today and could go extreme and back up. I now have similar handling in the corners, but loose on the straightaways Bad thing is that they closed the trails here in NE Wisconsin due to a lack of snow. I may use the lake as a test and then head north for testing trail performance. Not much snow until the UP from what I hear. By the way, what material or type of grinding wheel (bench grinder) would work for sharpening carbides? I see Shadetree sells a green wheel for $25. I would think there is a cheaper alternative.

[michahicks]

Geez Popeye, your as bad as I am. Lots of questions nobody wants to answer.

On the FRSS, you're right, the higher the setting, the sooner it contacts the scissor arm, when suspension is hit in the front, and the sooner it couples. We've been finding the high setting a little too much of a good thing. RRSS controls the same thing, only with messages coming from the rear, as in coming down off a bump or a jump, landing on the back. We like to run that on high when the going gets rough, back off a little when things smooth out.

The more coupling you are using, the more you will spin your track. End of story. Just ask the M-10 guys. Those machines are full time coupled with very little adjustment available to control it. That's why the guys with the Edge have a slight advantage if they are willing to mess with them. Coupling also sacrifices weight transfer. If you want a lesson on weight transfer, remove your RRSS. It won't hurt a thing...until you get to a corner. Front end becomes a little unpredictable at that point.....

I might be mistaken, but I think the holes in the scissor arm are for lightening purposes?

Sharpening carbides is a waste of material for a trail machine. The guys doing that are racing on the ice. The rocks and pavement will wear them all too quickly anyway.

AL

[Polar_Bus]

I personally didn't care too much about weight transfer, I ride, I am not into constant drag racing all my buddies. I had a '98 XC700, which hooked up very well, once some studs were added. I did however have a bad push exiting the apex of corners. I rotated the RSS blocks to the min. gap, and made a huge difference. It did however stiffen up the overall dampening in my rear suspension. Every adjustment you will make will have a positive, and a negitive reaction, it's all about "balance". Don't be afraid to systematically play with all the suspension adjustments available, and you will quickly learn how each component reacts. Only make one adjustment at a time! This way you will know immediately if you made progress or not. Good luck,
Rich K.

[ebgb68]

Hey Popeye I'm interested in what adjustment you went with?

Have my sled down for awhile.
I'm replacing bearings,rebuilding front shock adding pps to rearand new hyfaxes.

As soon as i find a new used track I can start testing these settings.....

[Popeye]

Here is where I am at now that I have things together. I had a chance to put on about 100mi this weekend and was amazed at what I had done with everyones help. It was like a different sled! I increased preload on the front skid shock to about 2/3 of the total distance. Why? My rubber bumpers on the rails were smashed and split and the rails had hammered spots from the front end of the skid bottoming out on them. I bought new torsion springs and set them to low. The new springs really took out the sag and even on low I haven't bottomed out yet and I'm about 230lbs. I loosened the front limiters to about 3-4 threads showing. The rear limiter strap was left alone at about 2-3 threads showing. I moved the rrss to the back hole and turned the block to high setting and left the frss on either a medium or high setting. I had both shocks rebuilt as well. I also tried sharpening my carbides. Best $15 I've spent. (green wheel from Grainger) It put on a decent edge freehanded by sharpening on a bench grinder. Could get maybe two more sets out of the wheel before it is too small in diameter.

With all of the changes, I get almost twice the holeshot traction as I did before and have gotten rid of the scary shuffle action that took place at 60-90mph. I can actually pull the skis off the ground if I sit or stand way back (it isn't a very light sled like the new twins). I have more ski lift in the corners than before (which was almost none) but the tradeoff is the ability to get traction out of the corners, whereas before I just spun the track for a few sled lengths. If I hold the line in the corners I can power through them pretty decent with the inner ski sort of teetering. It is possible to get some good inner lift in the corners if you go into them turned and jerk it straight a few times for a little one skied excitement and fun if your messing around. I love what I did and seems to suit how I like to ride which is aggresive trail.

The worst part is getting beat by 2002/2003 500xcsp's on the holeshot, but I don't let it get to me too much since my sled is about 200lbs heavier with rider. Plus I paid a lot less. Now, how do I fix the holeshot issue? Clutch tuning or clutch kit? I don't seem to have any flatspots, just too soon of engagement. Motor runs great, so I hate to mess with it, but would like to tweak the clutched if I knew what to do. I read that maybe a tooth less on the top sprocket would help. Is that true?

Another chapter in the quest for knowledge!

Popeye