Hey folks just picked up my sled that now has 96 studs all in the middle of the track. *The dealer studed the machine and put on 8" carbides. *I was suprised to see that the dealer put all 96 studs in the middle and none on the otter sides. I have a 02 600 XC SP which I believe is about 105 HP. *I know at 105 HP it should have 96-120 studs. *I am wondering how having all the studs in the middle will affect my performance and handling and do you think the dealer did this pattern to leave me options to upgrade to more studs in the future?
Where I sled: Sandhills of ND, UP, Continental Divide WY, N.MN
Posts: 555
I did that on one of my sleds, it worked great, traction in the straights, in the corners no picks on the outer belt will help you to powerslide, if that is your style. keep in mind that this sled was only about 70 hp.
But with the studs set up that way, I was using 4" carbides, the 8" might stick TOO well.
The Denis Kirk catalog has a handy chart to help you decide what # of studs you may want to install, and the recommended carbide size to match the set for you. they base it on Horse Power and Intended Usage.Dennis Kirk Catalog
I put 120 down the middle on my 02 mxz 700.Works great.I used the aluminum angled backers that get support from the lugs.Time will tell how everything lasts.
Your dealer was right putting them down the middle. The middle is were all of the weight on the track is at so you will get better penatration. If you are into snowcross racing the max you can stud is only 96 and down the middle only. As far as the front carbides are concerned your sled will corner very tight in the corners with the 8s you will like them if you hot rod the corners. As a rule of thumb when you stud a track you now have more track control even in the corners so you need to make the front handle just as well. I know alot of riders that are using 8s and thats all they use. Snowcross racers use 10s because they need to turn quickly. Stick with your 96 studs with your 600 any more will just slow the sled down because of the stud rotating weight. I Have a 97 zr 580 efi and I am a very agressive trail rider I have 144s on mine and using 6inch front carbides. I will try 8s next season. later
I checked Ladyk's track after 1700kliks of abusive riding extended road running pushing corners ... lol All the studs are still attached with carbides none are bent they look great.They are in a long V pattern 144 centre with aluminum backers with three studs per line. I helped the dealer put them on and saved a 100 bucks. My buddy listned to his dealer and put 144 studs on with plastic backers and on the outside of the track on a 02 mxz 800 adreneline and after 500 kliks of the same conditions all the studs on the outside were worn down considerably. Some were even bent. It seems that whenever a stud rips out its on the outside of the track. *The machz that was with us had a couple of studs rip out on the outside *of course. Myself i am into paddles and deep powder, I am thinking about getting a 1.5" challenger for the 800 gade after being in cochrane and busting chest deep powder for hundreds of kliks.
Your dealer was right putting them down the middle. The middle is were all of the weight on the track is at so you will get better penatration. If you are into snowcross racing the max you can stud is only 96 and down the middle only. As far as the front carbides are concerned your sled will corner very tight in the corners with the 8s you will like them if you hot rod the corners. As a rule of thumb when you stud a track you now have more track control even in the corners so you need to make the front handle just as well. I know alot of riders that are using 8s and thats all they use. Snowcross racers use 10s because they need to turn quickly. Stick with your 96 studs with your 600 any more will just slow the sled down because of the stud rotating weight. I Have a 97 zr 580 efi and I am a very agressive trail rider I have 144s on mine and using 6inch front carbides. I will try 8s next season. later
