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Old 03-13-2003, 02:10 AM   #21
mxzx600
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Location: Palmer Alaska
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Just my suggestion I run my limiter strap long on my 2001 mxzx 600 and love it. I have major changes in my shocks they are not stock. I run dual rate on the center, with little preload on that. I also changed my front springs and it just kicks butt threw anything. Try letting the limiter out and see what happens, alot of guys I know are doing that since they have rode mine and they love it that way.
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Old 03-13-2003, 05:21 PM   #22
SDRENE800RER
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Location: Epping, New Hampshire USA
Primary Sled: SD MXZ Renegade 800 RER
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Nick...Are you the original owner of that sled? or do you know if any one has made changes to the strap? If it has allready been pulled up 1 hole or more from the factory setting, then yes it will get worse if you also tighten another notch.....maybe thats why your sled sits lower.....tightening or shortening the strap too much will do that.

As far as the coupling blocks, they are the offset square blocks back by the rear axle, set between 2 rubber pads, that run in a shaft from one side to the other. This works with the limiter strap in front and when the blocks are in the fully "coupled" position, it causes the front and rear to comunicate with each other. Un-coupled is great for drag racing, buts sucks for everything else, because the front and rear of the skid frame are basically un-conected and working independently of each other.

If your sled is in the full coupled mode, the blocks will have the fat part with the "R" embosed on it will face the rear or towards the rear axles. If the fat part with the "R" is in any other position, use the wrench with the 2 10mm long pins sticking out and turn them to the rear position.

As far as the rear springs and you weight goes, your border line on needing the next heavier springs.....you should bottom out now and then, but if you are bottoming alot and cranking to #3 or #4 dosent help much, then thats telling you heavier springs are needed.

Other than that, Its hard to say whats got thet sled so out to lunch. Do you jump the machine alot?...will we see you in the next 2Stroke Cold Smoke #9 video????? just kidding! Have you made sure that somethings not bent, broken, missing? or blown shock? Something that isnt letting the skid work properly?

Good Luck
Let us know
Todd
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Old 03-13-2003, 07:50 PM   #23
DoTheDoo800
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Nick, I didn't mean to muddy the waters on you but rather offer up a few setups I've had success with. This is how I get set up.

1) Record your settings for your best set up to date. Worst case cenario you can always go back to where you started at the end of the day but only if you know where to go to.
2) Put everything back to stock
3) Lift rear of sled until the suspension just tops out and let go. Now measure from the rear bumper to the floor.
4) Bounce up and down on the sled a few times and assume your ridding position. Now have a buddy measure form the rear bumper to the floor again. If there is more than a 4" difference between the two measurements crank up the rear springs. If you still have grater than 4" you need stronger springs. Email Bombi with your info and they will give you the part number for the correct springs.
5) Once the rear is set turn your attention to the front. It will now plow through corners. Crank up the spring preload one click or about 1/8' at a time. You are looking for the best ski bite without making the steering too heavy.
6) Now crank up the mid shock spring one at a time. You will notice the rear starting to slide. The sled will start to feel a bit nervous and unpredictable. Now one to two clicks softer from this point is all you will need to get the planted and predictable feel back.
7) If you got this far and the rear is bottoming try moving the upper mounting position of the shock to the mid point within the "C" bracket. Then to the bottom if need be. The X shock is a good piece so you likely will not have to go to this length.
8) Now pull the strap down one notch and see if it suits your ridding style.

Remember change only one thing at a time. Every thing you change affects the entire package. Eg. A little more spring pressure on the skis may require one more click on the mid shock to get it to turn quickly again.

Spend a day and try it out. I hope she rocks when your done.
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