Dialing In Clutches

[RNM2399]

My buddy just got a infrared temp gun and we are planning on using it to check the temperatures of the clutches to dial them in. If they are working together they should have the same amount of slippage and therefore heat right? Any thoughts on this?
Ryan

[Nicks800x]

Thats a good idea, but you would have to have a baseline temp on a stock clutched sled..right I know when my freinds clutch was off, it was really hot. He would often compare his temp to mine....I dunno, it sounds like a good idea.

[idooski]

I have on for the same reason. Good idea.

[oldman]

that's the first thing I do after changes are made to the clutch system. Helps one from going down the wrong path.

[speed is everything]

You will have to have a baseline of a stocker thats been alinged properly. The difference in the amount of metal on the clutches will vary the temps also. Sounds like as good an idea as any.

[john breedon]

As OLd man said it is the best way to tell if you are going the right way with your clutching.After a fair long pull the primary clutch(on mine anyway) would be 20-30 degrees hotter than the primaryIn a short burst 660 feet with a warm motor and cool clutches my mach had a secondary temp of 90 degrees,the belt was in the upper 80s and the primary was about 98 f. This was the same conditions for a 660 ice drag.before adding weight the temps were about 20-30 degrees hotter.We use our laser for airconditiong,checking for weak clyinders,sticking brakes,one of those tools everyone should have,and makes neat red dots on your friends heads as well.

[Dynamo^Joe]

slight increase in spring compressive force at full shift has massive benefits to improve clutching.

As example, my most common advice for Polaris riders is to change out the Sil/Blue secondary spring, to the Ski-Doo beige secondary spring. This is quite a bit of final compressive force, but when after a hard flogging you can measure the differences up to 40 degrees cooler by going to a spring with more force, this increases the amplitude of the upshift and backshift signal when applying fuel trigger.

After playing with literally dozens of secondary springs, this change was the best that I could find which allowed better shift [+ & - ] without having to add flyweight.

Polaris - Sil/Blu @ 70 lbs
Polaris - Grey @ 85 lbs
Ski-Doo - Beige @ 115 lbs
A Cat - Yellow @ 120 lbs
CPC - Blu/Wht @ 130 lbs
*springs at full compressed less coilbind.

My bar-none fave secondary spring for Dooey "Roller" clutch is the CPC - Blue/Wht. Yeah it is just a tad larger in outer dia then the beige, but the spring fits easily into an 02 or older roller clutches. the 03 Dooey roller clutch has a bit of a time for installation as it hits the roller capscrews, but under pretension, the spring hits nothing.

This spring here, yes even up to a 700 mxz for example with a roller clutch would have to add less than a gram of flyweight. The pretension values climb much quicker per degree of rotation with the Blu/Wht spring than the Beige spring.
You can start both with pretensions of say 18 lbs, but at full shift, the CPC spring would be considerable more. ...cannot remember exact #'s

Lack of heat = efficiency.
Heat = HP literally going up in smoke

[RNM2399]

We use our laser for airconditiong,checking for weak clyinders,sticking brakes,one of those tools everyone should have,and makes neat red dots on your friends heads as well.

LOL. The first thing I did when I saw it was shoot my arm to see what my skin temperature was. The second thing I did is say you know how good of a pick up line "how hot are you baby?" would be at a bar? LOL!
Ryan

[Revguy]

Dynamo Joe is the first person in this forum that makes alot of sense and from my racing days, everything he said is true. Finally, someone that doesn't BS in here...................

[RNM2399]

Most people on here do not BS, there are quite a few people with valuable info to share. Yes some do jus BS, but thats just how people are in my experience.
Ryan