Was wondering about everyone's ideas about when it's best to stud ?Wasn't the old rule of thumb to wait till it was run for a while before studding to allow for stretching?Also what is a safe number of studs to use if just doing the center belt of the track? Is 96 going to cause a stud tearing problem on a 600ho , I had no problems with that # on my 99 600. Will 120 do the trick for the average trail rider,just for braking and icy corners not dragging. :thumbsup:
Ive heard different opinions on this topic.
Im going to wait till I have a couple miles on it because it cant hurt.....Im also not going to be able keep my self off it once it comes in....
Im was thinking about 144 down the center but will look to the REV guy's because I dont have experience with the set up on them YET.
Where I sled: Central, Eastern and Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,229
I have run 120 down the middle before, works very well for trial riding (hills, corners, stopping!!!)
When are sled makers going to put ABS on a sled?? lol
Oh yah... run it for a few weeks! Usually 1 or 2 hundred miles gets things working good
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<span style="color:green">Cat's Pride Member "94 - 06"
1997 ZR580 EFI</span>
Arctic Cat</span> "What Snowmobiling's All About"
Location: Fredericton (freddy) New Brunswick Canada
Primary Sled: 2004 f6 efi
Where I sled: New Brunswick
Posts: 4,733
never heard of running a sled a few hundred miles before studding it, maybe its a doo thing. we always put studs in our rides before they hit the first patch of snow. I guess it makes sense though. gives me something to think about over these hot long summer days. ???
Stud her up right away, then just keep an eye on tension for the first couple hundred miles and adjust accordingly. The newer tracks don't stretch as much as the older tracks do. With a 120 hp I would not go less then 144 down the centre if you ride hard .
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" WILL WORK FOR SNOW"[ NEAR NORTH SNOWDRIFTERS] ZR-900...THE "APEX" PREDATOR
I have done it both ways. I don't believe in letting the track stretch. It just isn't a factor. What I like to recommend is to ride it for a season just to remind you what it's like to be without studs. I rode the 800 w/o for the first season. I slid across the first road we came to. But after I got used to it (especially in marginal conditions) I had a hard time deciding to stud or not. I eventually did. I found that with the 800 and a 1 1/4" lug, the studs did very little for traction and served best as brake shoes. No more sliding across roads. :thumbsup:
i would drive it for 1-2 hundred k'ms before studding it. Let the track get running and broken in before studding it. You dont want to stud it new and then when it stretches out and studs start coming loose. Not a good idea. ???
just my .02
SWRules
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1994 Ski-Doo Formula STX 583 Rave
1994 Chevrolet Lumina Z34
1997 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4
Will 120 do the trick for the average trail rider,just for braking and icy corners not dragging. :thumbsup:
i would wait until your warranty is up skidoo will not warranty any problems with your track if it is studed FYI
