Ski Doo Clutching - Snowmobile World : Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

BubbaDoo · 07-09-2003, 06:12 AM

I am looking for info on whats the best clutching set for up for my 97 Mach 1 imp stock. I am thinking about using the Thunder Shift over the Heel Clicker, I thought about the bearcat secondary(know body real knows a good setup for belts etc.). I have herd of using the bigger camed helix off the rev or newer mxz, is this a roller secondary. Would it be better to use my stock secondary with the roller kit from SkiDoo. Last year I run it in the amature class with mag arms ground down 280 rams 44-36 helix 180 hp @9000(dynoed) best run 5.7. I am getting new pipes alot more motor work and the sled went on a major diet. Any body know of good setup for the suspension(springs straps wheels anti ratchet blue printing all the shafts) does any body have the way to get the old DSA frame out of the hole better alway seems like the first 8' suck then it screams after that. If any body has any real god info I like to hear it.

Bubba

idooski · 07-09-2003, 10:09 AM

Hi Bubba...You would probably get some help here, but I'm thinking that you would get more of the help you are looking for in the racing forum. Have you posted there?

Limskii · 07-15-2003, 03:16 AM

BubbaDoo, if you have these parts, try this setup, which worked really well on my '97 Mach 1 with trail porting and Jaws trail pipes. Prim.: blue (240-430), 287 ramps @ #4 or #5 clicker, 16.4 g pins(stock). Sec.: beige (stock), 48-44 cam, set @ 20-22lbs. Gearing for 500' grass drag and running @ 9000 rpm should be around 21-44 or 22-44. I ran this setup with the Bomb. 067 belt that is broken in properly. As for rear suspension setup, I drilled another hole in the front limiter straps to be able to strap the front of rear suspension down a little more (drilled hole same distance as other hole distances). After having front limiter tied down, I compressed rear of suspension with turnbuckle and used a locking strap to hold rear supension down. I would do all of this after having strapped front ski suspension down and allowing the 2" of travel. Once front skis are strapped, then do the rear suspension until the front of rear and rear of rear suspension touch ground at same time, when lifting rear of sled off ground and slowly bringing it down. Also, loosen rear suspension spring tensions, but tighten ACM nut to almost tightest. I hope this is not too complicated, but when launching on grass with 192 chisels and a 0.5" speed track, the sled launched hard and just barely had the skis an inch or two above the grass. Anyways, this is something you could try that worked excellent on my sled.
Hope this helps !

purple punisher · 07-15-2003, 08:36 AM

what spring and weights are you using with the mag arms?
Seems like a real low helix.

BubbaDoo · 07-17-2003, 05:28 AM

Purple, I am planning on starting with a 228 ramp spring around 230/250-410 spring, Thunder shift kit, Goodwin buttons(maybe Ski Doo Roll secondary if someone can show me it works better for drag racing), helix starting with a 44 deg or 47 deg. The motor should rev around 10,000 this is where I will start the dialing in.
Bubba

purple punisher · 07-17-2003, 02:06 PM

I am running same sled on asphalt. Revving 9500 crankshop pipes.
Got Mag arms PINK/White spring 15 grams and 53/47 cam at back. Starting to pull hard and my 600 ft times are 6.1s and 6.5s at 660 101MPH on the tar.
Your cam angle seems real low??????
Am I missing something?