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10-22-2003, 04:40 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: South Windsor, CT
Mileage: 1200
Primary Sled: 01' MXZ 800 Adrenaline (RED)
Where I sled: All of NH, Rangeley, ME
Posts: 935
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Who has used both and what is your opinion on them?
Using the stud bit, is it better to use a drill with high RPM? Does the stud bit clog with the track material like a hole saw?
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Do the Doo, Think of your children, Ride Safe and Sober
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10-22-2003, 05:14 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Pontiac Lk Mi/Gaylord Mi
Mileage: 3200
Primary Sled: 07 ApexRTX, 06 IQ600 HO
Where I sled: Pontiac Lake (SE Lower)/Northern Lower Michigan
Posts: 2,560
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I'm a fan of the stud bit used in a high speed drill. I use a 1/4 air drill. The idea is to let it burn through the track from the heat being generated as you push on it. The first couple holes are a little slow, but once warm, it cuts like you are going through butter. It does plug on occasion as it warms up, usually ok after that. You need to keep it hot. Drill the entire track at once, don't stop and install a stud every time you drill a hole.
A regular drill bit can snag and cut an irregular hole. I used one turning backwards in a pinch.
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'07 Apex RTX w/Pro X suspension conversion, Fox Floats w/resi's, Doo extro drivers, Cobra track, Dual Ryde FX rear clickers, .375 Edge torsion springs, HyGear Dual rate front skid springs, SLP anti-stab kit, Powermadd handguards/mirrors, 2" Rox riser, shimmed Poo skis w/custom (homemade) ski savers, Black chrome W/S, Graphics by Arctic FX, and a grin every time I think about it! New Project: 600HO Fusion bump sled, Air 2.0 w/hi/low valves, HRM spindles, Retro graphics, .359 torsion springs.
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10-22-2003, 05:22 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: kalamazoo mi
Posts: 160
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:hallo8: STUD BIT IS THE ONLY WAT TO GO DRILL BIT WONT REMOVE ENOUGH
material TO HARD TO PUSH STUD THROUGH :hallo6: 
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10-22-2003, 05:27 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Rats Nest Grafton ND
Where I sled: No longer Sled, I play in the Mud
Posts: 1,042
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I am not a big fan of a stud hole cutter. They tend to cut too many cords in the track. I use a regular drill bit that is smaller then the stud you are installing as it cutts less cords in the track and the track will actually hold on to the stud better giving you less chance of pull through. Once you get through the track with a regular bit you have to spin it at high speed to soften the rubber up a bit then install your stud right away. You may need a plier to pull the stud all the way in. don't wrry about installing the backer and nut till you have all the studs in place and the holes drilled. I used to lose studs all the time due to pull through when using a hole cutter but when I went to the regular drill bit it never happened again.
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SNORAT
aka Rat
2001 Polaris Magnum 500 built to run in the MUD
Proud member of SOPOID and the AXLE EATER CLUB (2 down and working on #3)
Snow is questionable but Mud is forever
My pics pages
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10-22-2003, 07:10 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Southern IL, about 1 hour SE of St. Louis, MO
Primary Sled: 2007 Yamaha Attak GT
Where I sled: Southern IL when we have snow, then Minocqua, WI, U.P. MI, and Grand Lake, CO
Posts: 675
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The stud bit is the only way to go as far as I'm concerned. think of it this way, would you rather have a hole made by the "hot knife thru butter" conept or the "wood chisel and block of wood" concept.
The regular drill bit uses the chisel approach, where as the stud bit uses the hot knife approach.
Heck, they're uner $10 I think too. I've used the same one and studded 6 sleds with it.
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My insane love of snowmobiling is the only thing that keeps me from going insane!
Don't just sit there with your teeth in your mouth, get out and ride!!
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10-22-2003, 11:22 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: S-E Lower, Michigan
Mileage: 1115 miles
Primary Sled: The old purple pile
Where I sled: Frederic to Lake Gogebic & everywhere in between
Posts: 2,422
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In the old days I used to stud using a pointed hot rod 1/4 or 5/16. This worked great and coterized the hole at the same time. Only problem is the stink of burning rubber so I use a track drill now. Regular drills dont cut it "dont cut it" get it, hehehe.
Another way I prefer to stud is jack the back of the sled up so it is at eye level. Then drill your hole and install a stud one at a time, as you continue studding you can look down the track and see your first set of studs then off setting the next set slightly so you have more scratch lines that way. This is why studding templates are worthless, would you rather have 6 scratch lines or 26?
:hallo5: w00t
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2000 Flll 800
SC3 x 136 with a 1.5 track.
MXZ racing shocks up front with precision skis.
Clutched & geared by Joey.
And now RER, ya baby!
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10-22-2003, 11:44 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Burt Mi--Between Flint & Saginaw
Mileage: 1900
Primary Sled: 05 Renegade-X 600SDI w/1.75 track
Where I sled: I like to find the fun spots were nobody else would go
Posts: 3,413
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mikadoo@Oct 22 2003, 09:22 PM
Another way I prefer to stud is jack the back of the sled up so it is at eye level. Then drill your hole and install a stud one at a time, as you continue studding you can look down the track and see your first set of studs then off setting the next set slightly so you have more scratch lines that way. This is why studding templates are worthless, would you rather have 6 scratch lines or 26?
:hallo5: w00t
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[quote]
I do the same thing but raise the back of the sled up with the chain hoist, I also like to make my own templates, this way I can make almost an infinite number of scratch lines(except on the 03 Rev, damn tunnel protectors) 
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77 polaris colt 340
78 artic cat el tigre 440
96 formula sl 500
98 formula z 583
02 mxz 700
current 05 Renegade-X 600 SDI w/1.75 track
04 GSX 500ss (wife)
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10-22-2003, 11:56 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: L7 C2 oakland twp 44 King St N RR 4 Scotland N0E 1R0, southwest of brantford, southern ontario
Mileage: 2487 miles
Primary Sled: 2007 blizzard 600
Where I sled: southern ontario and wisconsin.
Posts: 11,656
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i've never studded a track but i am sure that a regular drill bit would tear out cords in the track the are part of the track strength. i have drilled similar materials with drill bits and the bit looks like a shoe string has been wrapped around it after a few turns in the material.
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IF WE GIVE ALL THE PROFIT TO THE IMPORTS WHAT WILL BE LEFT?
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10-23-2003, 02:19 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Northwest Ohio
Mileage: 1500++++
Primary Sled: 2003 firecat f7
Where I sled: Newberry, Grayling, Home, anywhere there is snow
Posts: 10,043
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nothing but a stud bit,,,,if you have to use a regular bit, use it in reverse,,,,,,and only temporarily
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03 F7
07 F6lxr
03 Z370es
78 Invader 440
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10-23-2003, 02:31 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: South Windsor, CT
Mileage: 1200
Primary Sled: 01' MXZ 800 Adrenaline (RED)
Where I sled: All of NH, Rangeley, ME
Posts: 935
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I have also heard the drill bit cuts less cords and the stud is stiffer in its installation. With a air wrench and a allen wrench head, I can screw the stud in instead of pushing it through after drilling with a bit..... I am only doing two sleds and I will have these rides for quite some time. I was wonder what the masses use here. Thanks for all the input.
Rob
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Do the Doo, Think of your children, Ride Safe and Sober
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