Bogging '88 Exciter

[zachary140]

I have an '88 570 cc exciter...when I start the sled it idles approximately around 1,500 rpm's I am fine with that. If I push the throttle a little it goes up to about 2,800 rpm's it will never go back down to 1,500 rpm's. I don't think that is normal is it? I take it for a little ride and stop for a stop sign or for whatever reason it goes way down and beyond 1,000 rpm's and dies. Sometimes I can use the choke to revive it and it will move off again without dieing. What could be causing this problem? How could a guy fix it? Any help would greatly be appreciated.

Zachary

[puree]

adjust your idle just a little higher,,,,not much.

at idle you are using your pilots,,,, maybe you have one plugged and it is simply running on the choke when you first start it,,,, once warmed and then you stop, it is starting to plug??? only a thought,,,

with any luck ,idleing just a little higher will help you,,,,

[CORY9]

By flipping the choke on you are richening the engine. This would indicate that a lean condition exists, perhaps a partially plugged carb? You might want to have a look, as if the carbs are dirty you could do some serious damage.

[puree]

when the choke cable on my vmax went bad, it would start up fine with the choke on, but when you turned the choke off, the one carb didnt turn off,,,,,it ran fine,,,,rich, but fine,,,but when you would give it some gas, the one cylander was starting to flood out and I would get that bog. That was my suggestion,,,,,the on is on when he is starting it.

I do agree that simply pulling the carbs and cleaning them would help a lot,,,,,it definetly wont hurt!!!

[zachary140]

I have been messing a lot with my idle speed, I put it higher but the belt shield says 1500 +/- 100 rpm's. I turn it over and its there, I touch the throttle and its up to 2,800. If I ride it and stop I have to keep my thumb on the throttle b/c it will die. If I take my thumb off of it it will die, but I can use the choke to revive it back up before it dies. I have messed a lot with the idle so I am hoping now that its just the carbs that need cleaning? I don't mess with the carbs myself, I heard of guys blowing up their sleds over fixing their carbs and stuff.

[puree]

your not going to blow up your sled by working on your carbs too much,,, I would pull both carbs and clean them real good,,,, when you pull your needle, what notch is the eclip in ??? if you are running rough at idle but you are running good at mid and high, I dont wanna mess with the needle too much,,,,,,

pull em, clean em real good,,,,

you also said it seems to be almost missing from time to time at idle,,, I would still idle it up 1/2 a turn to 1 turn on both carbs,,,, this will only affect your idle, not the rest of the carb

[kgmz]

By your statement of not messing with the carbs, it sounds like they have never been cleaned.

When you have a sled that will not idle down like you have stated, rpm's will hang around 2800. It is a lean high idle condition, meaning it is not so lean to cause any damage in most cases, but causes the aggravating high idle.

So is this a recent condition? Did it do this last year?

If it ran good before and this is a recent condition, you need to clean your carbs, the pilot jets or passageways are probably partially clogged causing a lean condition.

Don't be afraid to work on the carbs, the round slide Mikuni's are easy to work on. But the carbs are kind of a pain to get out.

The easiest way to get the carbs out for me:
Above the gas tank filler cover you will see a small rectangular piece that will pop out. Under this you will find 2 10mm bolts, remove these and it will allow the air box to slide back about a inch.
Next pull your belt cover and belt off.
Next remove the clamps completely from the rear boots on the carb side, this will allow the boots to compress so the carbs can be slid back from the front boots.
Next unscrew the tops so the slides can be pulled out, and pull the choke plungers out.
Next loosen the clamps on the front boots and slide the carbs out
Next remove the fuel hoses, get a couple of golf tee's or a bolt that will fit into the hose tight to keep the gas from running out.
Next unhook the Tors wires form the carbs.
Now you should be able to flip the carbs over and remove the float bowls, get a good fitting phillips screwdriver for this so you won't strip out the head of the screws.
Now you will see if there is any grunge in the bottom of the carb and the pilot and main jets are right there. Pull them out and see if they are clean, also spray some carb cleaner and blow air through all passageways. Also don't forget those small passages in the mouth of the carb.


I also have the jetting chart for your sled on my website, just click on the link below and then click on the Exciter manual button.

http://www.zenitram-inc.com/kgmz.htm

[zachary140]

I just bought this sled about 1 month ago, we haven't had a ton of snow and now its creeping up to the upper 20's and lower 30's for a while. I can't really say much about the old owner but I don't think he was too intelligent. I replaced the belt he put on because it was way too small and I don't think he would have cleaned his carbs. It just bogs down a lot in a 1 mile stretch or so I can get up to 50 mph but thats about tops. So I can't really say if its a new condition or not, but it has gotten a little worse now, so I think I should clean them and check the air box and all that stuff while I am in there, and if they are fine it wont hurt anything to be cleaned. Thanks for your help everyone!

[puree]

I would also pull the old gas and get rid of it, if it was left in from the previous owner,,,

[zachary140]

Thats one of the first things I did...I personally have never seen green gas, I have ran about 2 1/2 (20 Gal) tanks of good gas threw her but the carbs need to be done now.