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Old 11-25-2004, 09:57 PM   #11
michahicks
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Brent,
My machines are set up for REALLY aggressive trail riding and bumps. Tons of weight on the front end, and fully coupled rear end. Most people would most likely find this set up all over the trail due to the dodgy nature of a very positive front end, and very rough riding due to the RRSS being all the way forward with the scissor arm set in the rear hole at the bottom. The RRSS being forward will force both front and rear arms to compress together as a pair (coupled - as in M-10) when either end hits a bump, and also compresses both front and rear springs at the same time as the suspension collapses when hitting a bump - causing the stiff ride. The front and rear ends of the suspension are not able to act seperately.

If you set your sled up for maximum acceleration on hard pack, you need to use a lot of weight transfer (RRSS located in back hole (or removed completely for some real grins) to allow scissor arm to swing back). This takes weight off the skis when accelerating, transfers weight to the track. Looks/feels cool when going in a straight line, but no fun at all as you head off into the woods because there is no weight on your skis as you try to accelerate through a corner. You say fine, I'll just compensate by tightening the limiter straps. Bad move. That will help the immediate problem, but it also costs you some of that expensive suspension travel you just payed all that money for. Coupling the suspension arms together will not allow this transfer to happen. This setup dictates that the front and rear must be able to move independently.

My point to all this is that the suspension settings are all about compromise. It's not going to be a drag racer and handle well on the trails with the same settings. You will need to tweak the factory settings, one at a time, to suit your riding style. You'll most likely end up somewhere between the 2 extremes above. Your idea of setting everything in the middle isn't that far off.

Use the suggested starting points listed for the suspension on the stickers under the hood. Put a few miles on it, and pay attention to how the sled is behaving under different conditions. Then try to change the part you aren't happy with making ONE ADJUSTMENT AT A TIME. That way you can see how what you've done
affects the sled. Make big changes that will be obvious at first to see what's going on.

Mikes idea for extra traction, if you are thinking of a new track, works very well too....no matter how the suspension is set.

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Old 11-26-2004, 12:56 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by michahicks@Nov 25 2004, 10:19 PM
Your time is greatly appreciated! I have learned a lot from you all. The track is only a year old along with studs. I'm going to do as you say, "Make big changes that will be obvious at first to see what's going on", now that I have the jist on Weight Transfer and Coupling. I wish I only did the one type of riding. It takes a lot of time to get to know your sled. What a great sport/hobby. I'll give you an update once it really starts snowing here.

Brent
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Old 11-26-2004, 08:54 AM   #13
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if you find yourself cranking all the springs way up, revalving is always an option too. mike
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Old 11-26-2004, 10:09 AM   #14
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Mike,
IMHO, springs should be set for proper sag, that's it. If you are bottoming out constantly after that, or never bottoming out, that's when decisions need to be made regarding coupling/transfer setup and valving. Or is that what you were saying?
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Old 11-26-2004, 10:10 AM   #15
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Definatley start by reading the info under the hood.
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Old 11-26-2004, 10:51 AM   #16
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yeah, you just said it more clearly.
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