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Old 12-26-2005, 11:54 AM   #1
ef7cat
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was going to take my 03 f7 in for a timing key of 3 degrees.maybe a silencer,exhaust manifold, and a fuel pressure regulator. looked thruogh the forums and this site is the best i have been on yet, found lots of info on the topic i am asking about. just wanted some peace of mind on the part upgrades. DO NOT WANT TO HURT MY MOTOR.am interested in the low to mid range getting better if possible, top end is ok if it comes with but not an issue. would greatly appreciate any help or info on the type of products that have been used and didn't hurt your engine, even if they are mismatched name brands to make stuff work.have heard some silencers make the sled slower than stock,and that fuel pressure adj. can make the sled lean in the midrange. timing keys can make your sled overheat. was wondering if someone was daring enough to reply with helpfull answers.(I ride in ditches, the river, and occ. drag ,sno pro w/1.375 trck) thank you very much.
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Old 12-26-2005, 04:18 PM   #2
snowstorm6420
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I spoke to my dealer last week about the pressure regulator adjuster. He sells and recommends the one from D&D Performance called the POWER AUTHORITY CONTROLLER ($208 U.S. onsale right now) . They specilize in Cat.

The regulator brings the PSI down from about 44 to 39 only at 3/4 to wide open throttle thus increasing the horsepower by 3-4. He says its the best bang for the buck and still safe on the engine. It is suppose to also increase full economy as well, but I guess that depends on how much wide open running you do. There is a good article in the Jan/06 Snowsport magazine on this product.

Not really sure about the other items you mentioned. I'm going to install the PAC in mid January once I have had a chance to go up against a few of my friends on the lake just to get a feel for the improvements.
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Old 12-26-2005, 09:30 PM   #3
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I'm not big one the F7 stuff but am learing cuz my buddys got one. The PAC system is the best bang for the buck and a 3 degree key way is ok on the 03 models. I talked to a guy and he says no single pipe works (cats are his business) but the D&D can does help. Clutch it and its good to go. this guy has his own clutch kit better them the ods and the others. my buddy getting one soon. if interested pm me and i'll give ya info on his shop.
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Old 12-26-2005, 11:14 PM   #4
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Stay away from the 3 degree key, run a two degree max IMO. Seen good results from D&D y pipe, I personally don't have one. Check your head squish, some 03 have a lot of room for improvement in this area. Looking for .057". A good clutch kit is probably the best for your low/mid range. Stay away from cans, only make noise not power. You will have to run high test with that key and head cut. Some will beg to differ but for bottom end pull put a set of v force 111 reeds in it or even the $90.00 boysen petals. If they are original cylinders there is a lot to be desired from a mild trail port also if you have the money.
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Old 12-27-2005, 03:52 AM   #5
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Give Bikeman Performance a call. They can put togethor a package for you. They sell some products from Speedwerx and D&D as well as there own stuff and really know there stuff. They can tell you how much regulation or addition of fuel you will need for the ofset timing key with there pipe or whatever. I'd also add some reeds help the bottom end. BMP also has a can that saves about 7#s looses no HP and has a sound just a lil better then stock but not alot louder.

I would suggest maybe some reeds, there can and a pipe mod, the D&D Ypipe a smaller offset key, and whatever they suggest for fuel control. If you really want to add some HP add the Head Mod and some porting for them with a Boondocker box and you can be up in the 160hp range. Personally I started with reeds, TPI valves, pipe mod, and a D&D Ypipe and can't believe the power it has all the way through now.
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Old 12-27-2005, 04:07 AM   #6
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I have heard good and bad from the vforce reeds on these sleds,,,, some claim serious HP gains, others claim to get no difference at all,,, I have been tempted many times to get a set and throw them in to see for myself, but have failed to do so this far.
I really think that the best bang for the buck is getting your clutches set up for YOU. I had a brand name kit in mine (no names mentioned) and it was absolutely horrible. It was from a very reputable company and I will continue to buy from them, but in this case, they were WAY off. I took the time to do some radar runs, making changes in the clutches between every 3 runs and came up with a kit that is dead on for me. It didnt cost that much as I have quite a few parts and pieces here from sleds I have owned and it really made a big difference.
I do have a can on mine (brand name, no names mentioned) and through the radar runs, it made no difference in my speed at all. (neither faster or slower). It does sound a little better (NOT TOO LOUD), but it has a nice growl to it.
I also ran a pipe on mine last year,,, got it for a pretty good price through ebay,,, made 2 trips with it and a couple of radar runs and put it back on ebay. I was getting better results with the radar with the stock pipe.
I guess the steps that I will take from now on,,, instead of trying to make my 700 run like a 900 or 1000, I am simply going to get the 900 or 1000 and be done with it.
Am I getting old????
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Old 12-27-2005, 01:02 PM   #7
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Just wanted to add two more things. Like Puree said clutching is still the biggest gain you can make on a sled but do your mods first then get it clutched is my suggestion. The nice thing about putting togethor a package all from one company is they can suggest the fuel flow and clutching to go with what you have.

The other thing I wanted to say is on reeds. Your right Puree don't expect any top end HP gains. You will normally see nothing on a dyno peak number, but the way reeds work you never should see a top HP gain if you do something else is wrong IMO. Reeds only help throttle response and low and mid range pull and they definetly work for that IMO.
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Snopro Mod Airbox
Vforce 3 reeds
Oles 3 riser
Ice Scratchers
MMP 2 wheel kit, and Fabcraft Composite wheels
Rox Tread Grips
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Old 12-29-2005, 09:17 PM   #8
ef7cat
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SWRules thanks alot for the info. appreciate the input and the time eveeryone took to answer.decided for now to leave timing key alone,pipe and can. ordered a d&d clutch kit to see if that does enough for me. will let you know how it preforms. once again, thank you very much!
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Old 12-30-2005, 02:12 AM   #9
puree
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Well I didnt mention names in my original post,,, I really like d&d and will continue to deal with them, but they had the clutch kit I put on mine and it made it MUCH worse. I ended up using parts of it with other parts that I had along with buying a few other parts (if you catch what I mean) and I ended up getting it down where I wanted it.
When you swap your pieces out for the d&d pieces,,, find out where it engages, where it launches to, and where it climbs from there. You want to be right at 7850 rpm. The d&d on mine was only pulling mid 6's,,, I now launch to 7500 and climb to 7850,,,, I need to replace my driven spring though,,, I think I have a 190/290 in it and I need a 210/290. I am stuck engaging around 2800/3000 (not positive as it is down right now). Anyhow, good luck
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Old 01-02-2006, 09:08 AM   #10
ef7cat
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wondering if anyone could tell me where to find a horsepower, torque, and rpm curve for a 03 f7 (stock). thanks :undercover:
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