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09-25-2007, 08:00 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Stevensville Michigan
Mileage: 42 miles
Primary Sled: 1980 ski-doo citation ss
Where I sled: MI
Posts: 1,438
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After some research im a little confused as to what you need to stud your sled. Obviously you need the studs. But do you have to have backer plates and the nuts? Or do you have to have one or the other? And do you have to use the special drill bit for drilling tracks? One last question, if i have a lug height of 3/4", do i buy .875" studs? Im interested in studding my track just pretty confused as to what i need, and im still debating whether to do it or not because i have sucj a small track.
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09-25-2007, 08:09 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Keene
Mileage: over 1000 kms
Primary Sled: 1994 Mach 1
Where I sled: Ontario
Posts: 94
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Quote:
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After some research im a little confused as to what you need to stud your sled. Obviously you need the studs. But do you have to have backer plates and the nuts? Or do you have to have one or the other? And do you have to use the special drill bit for drilling tracks? One last question, if i have a lug height of 3/4", do i buy .875" studs? Im interested in studding my track just pretty confused as to what i need, and im still debating whether to do it or not because i have sucj a small track.[/b]
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Yes the .875 studs go with 3/4" track, yes you need backer plates, No nuts usually come with the studs, and I would say with your power and the track size that the 45 stud pattern would be plenty enough for your sled. A track cutter is the best way to cut a hole the correct size through the track. Ask around before you buy one though, I bought one and found out after the fact that three people I knew already had a track cutter. Oh well.
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09-25-2007, 08:11 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Stevensville Michigan
Mileage: 42 miles
Primary Sled: 1980 ski-doo citation ss
Where I sled: MI
Posts: 1,438
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ok, so no need for nuts? oh yeah, stupid question, the backer plate goes on the "back" of the track? Not on the side with the lugs?
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09-25-2007, 09:04 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Beaverton
Mileage: 3515 kms
Primary Sled: 04 MXZ Renegade X, 96 Formula 500 watersled
Where I sled: Port Perry, Gravenhurst, Sprucedale & anywhere there is snow & water
Posts: 795
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Drill a hole in the track with the track cutter, push the stud in from the inside, install the backer (lug side) & the nut. I torque the nuts so the studs pull into the track properly & they are all even. I can't remember the torque spec but I will find & post it for you.
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09-26-2007, 11:16 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 530
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A good site for recommondations is woody's website.
www.wiem.com
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09-26-2007, 02:38 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Stevensville Michigan
Mileage: 42 miles
Primary Sled: 1980 ski-doo citation ss
Where I sled: MI
Posts: 1,438
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so you have to have the nut and backer plate? Also, why can you use just a regular ol' drill bit?
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09-27-2007, 07:09 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Keene
Mileage: over 1000 kms
Primary Sled: 1994 Mach 1
Where I sled: Ontario
Posts: 94
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Quote:
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so you have to have the nut and backer plate? Also, why can you use just a regular ol' drill bit?[/b]
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The track cutter is a hollow drill bit that actually removes the prefect sized piece of material from the track. A regular drill bit would just bore a hole through that would kind of close back up.
__________________
If you can read this,
thank a teacher.
If you can read this in English,
thank a soldier.
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09-27-2007, 11:00 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Erie, PA
Mileage: 282
Where I sled: NW PA (Erie, PA) and New York
Posts: 580
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A track template is usually a help as well. We got a plastic one and a track cutter pretty cheap from shadetree and have since studded 3 tracks with them. The template will make sure your pattern is even and will assure a good scratch line pattern. (i.e. if you put all of the studs in a line, they would all scratch the same place on the ground. By stagering them, they all scratch a different line in the ground.) Do not overtorque the nuts on the studs!
Tip: dip the track drill in dish soap each time to ease drilling.
__________________
99' ZR 500efi
96' ZR 580efi- RIP
01' Chevy ZR2
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09-27-2007, 02:13 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Lindsay
Mileage: 30XX kms
Primary Sled: 1999 mxz 600
Where I sled: georgian bay
Posts: 443
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every stud you buy comes with the nut, so 45 studs come with 45 nuts in with the stud price, the backers are a seperate cost, usually 45-60 cents each. the template is a cheap investment, around 5 bucks, and the cutter is around 10 bucks. there 2 sized cutters for the 2 different sized studs available.
__________________
When you skis are straight up in the air and you have no control is........ the best feeling ever
hardcoresledder=snowdriven
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09-27-2007, 03:06 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Richfield, WI
Mileage: -.01
Where I sled: Anywhere in Northern WI
Posts: 430
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Your sled really only needs 72 or less studs. You also don't need the 5/16" or 8mm thread save a few bucks and go with the smaller diam studs.
It sounds like you already have answered your own questions regarding the layout of studs etc.
However, I attached a rudimentary view of a track and studs for reference.
__________________
99' Triple Touring (being customized)
75 T'nt 340
01' zrt 600
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