Ok, look at my sug for my sled. A couple of week's ago I posted about my sled fouling plug's last year. I was going to make some big changes but didn't. The only thing I have done is install Boysen 2 stage reed's, listed to be for EFI. I talked to some one on here that said they used them in same type of sled(EFI) with no issue's.
During the installing I found that the air box had been blocking part of BOTH t-body's. Now of course that's now fixed and on all the way. I took the sled out and babyed around the year on last years plugs(VERY BLACK and WET) after a few lap's in the yard I pulled the plug's.....there getting REALY clean. So I decided to take it out on the road. Ran a good way's then shut it down while still at speed. Pulled the plugs and I'd say there borter line to lean, VERY light gray. Now the instructions say they run rich at WOT.....I'm worried. So I come back being nice.....shut it down and rechecked......they are still just as light colored.
Yes..the oil pump rod is on and the marks are lined up.
Now these plugs DON'T look like coffe w/cream. These look more like the gray soot after you burn paper. How should I proceed, I'm goingto put some new plugs in and check again, but I'm sure that they will still be a little lean. WHAT CAN I DO.....I thought about putting old reeds back in but wife seem's to have misplaced.
During the installing I found that the air box had been blocking part of BOTH t-body's. Now of course that's now fixed and on all the way.[/b]
What do you mean by this? I don't understand how the airbox can block the throttle bodies. They should be connected. If you modified the inside of your airbox, that's why you are lean. You are right to be concerned, this does not sound good.
I have a hard time believing it's the reeds, sounds more like an intake leak.
The lower part of the air box boot's were blocking like a 1/4 of the t-body mouth. I hAD NEVER had the air box off and you cant hardly see the botom of the t-body where they connect to the air box. I could tell they had been blocking part of it......could see the ruber transfer and the lower part of the air box was folded up.
After haveing reinstalled I can see why they could fold and block the t-body's...its a royle pain.
I have checked for air leak's around reed area, with brake clean and propane. NO change in the way it ran.
I have also pulled and cleaned the fuel pick up's....just some sort of realy fine mesh.....clean as can be.
I was able to get a buddy's New plug's. Ran around the yard,started thought they were starting to darken up....jumped on a small trail and opened it up. Rode like I normaily would for about 2 miles....shut it off and fliped open the hood............NOT GOOD......the exhaust manifold by the heads was just barly glowing. Pulled the plugs they were WHITE in the electrode was white....like frosty white.
So I'm back home beating my head against the wall......start the sled and let it run for a while......notice NO smoke. Thinking the oil pump isn't working(never had the lines off though) I unhook the link and set it wide open. Seem's like it started smokeing prety good, made a couple of slow lap's and fogged my self out....so I'm guessing it works.
I pulled the plugs again hopeing to see something black....very little change in color, and no signs of excive oil . At this point I'm lost....top's of the pistons are still looking fine, HOWEVER they are DRY, and I mean like havent been run dry. There is some light color soot on top, but I can tell they are getting TO clean.
I'm still trying to figure this out.....I have now dumped some oil in the cyclinder's just to add some extra time.
I'm at the point I can't tell if I'm lacking GAS or running realy short on OIL.......will a EFI injector work with premix gas, I might add some oil just to make sure I don't tost anything while trying to fix this.
I have also checked and have NO c/k engine light, or blinking led on the ECU.
The lower part of the air box boot's were blocking like a 1/4 of the t-body mouth. I hAD NEVER had the air box off and you cant hardly see the botom of the t-body where they connect to the air box. I could tell they had been blocking part of it......could see the ruber transfer and the lower part of the air box was folded up.[/b]
Ah yes now I get it. I did this several times on one of my sleds before I figured it out, luckily never ran it that way but yeah it's easy to do. You might want to make sure the airbox has not been gutted. It needs to be 100% stock. Check it against your parts diagram at http://www.alpha-sports.com
I would say if you're not sure you're getting oil, yes by all means run premix along with your full oil tank and measure how much oil is consumed vs gas and calculate your ratio.
However, it sounds more like you said, it's running lean. It sounds like both sides are equally lean. I'm concerned. I would try calling the Boysen tech line http://www.boyesen.com/cwo/Contact_Us and see if they have anything to say about this.
The throttle bodies being partially blocked would easily explain why it was running so rich before. It could be that the EFI computer tried to recalibrate for less air, and now that there's so much airflow it hasn't adapted yet. Personally I think that's a reach but I don't know what else to say. I don't know about your EFI system but there may be stored trouble codes in the computer, just because the indicator is not flashing doesn't necessarily mean it hasn't detected a problem.
You're sure you have good gas in there, right?
YUP, drained and refuled with fresh gas toinght. I will be calling Boysen and see what they have to say, even the shop I bought them from said they work in EFI, and asked if I wanted them installed.
The air box is intact, as far as a relearn my AC service cd say's it is with in last 5 start's. I ran over the test them can be done with out the factory scan tool, and came up with nothing.
Now I did clean a few dirty conector's and and let it cool off. On restart I noticed it was smokeing at idle.....let it run and recheck, plugs were a little wet. I'm not sure if it was due to a cold engine of the cleaning. I test tfor mixture again, still lean at low speed and very lean on WOT.
I decided to try a last resort....my sled is By-Fuel. I now have it set(by factery jumper wire's) to run on O2 fuel or E-85(enothal). The sled AND service manule say's all this does is richen the mixture across the rpm range, is not suggusted of "pump gas" due to the richer mixture fouling plugs.................WELL the plugs are starting to get a color to them now. I was only able to "Plug it" once(due to naging wife) and the plugs look like it might be ok here. I just can't figure out WHERE all the extra air is comeing from and WHY I need more fuel. Both cyclinder's have the SAME plug color, so what ever is affecting this is happing on both cyclinder's, so I'm ruleing out a air leak....what are the odds of BOTH crank seal's or even reed cages leaking the same.
I'm lost and wishing I would have never taken the air box off..............
Sounds like you are more on top of this than I am. I still doubt it's the engine itself and most likely something crazy in the intake/efi, but I'm out of suggestions, sorry
I guess if you have a sensor that is malfunctioning but is the efi computer can't tell (because the signal coming from the sensor is still within normal range but incorrect) that could be it. Maybe your sled thinks it's 100 degrees outside or you're at 10000 feet? I know...the possibilities just get more remote...
Where I sled: Newberry, Grayling, Home, anywhere there is snow
Posts: 10,043
I believe I am the one who told you they run boysen in an efi sled. I do and I have no problems with them at all. Have ran a little over 100 mile the last few days with no problems at all. I did turn my oil pump up this summer, but it wasnt burning much oil at all and I didnt like that,,,,
any chance your problem is more electical based?? what about getting a 30$ fuel reducer on ebay (not to reduce your fuel flow) but to check the pressure?? Is there something going on with your fuel return or simply not getting enough fuel to the rail and your putting lots of air in there compared to fuel??
if fuel is your problem and not the oil pump, adding oil to your fuel shouldnt help,,, it may be wise to play very gentle with it right now so your not putting new pistons in soon.
just a thought,,, any cracks in the seams of your y pipe or your pipe?? check the backside of your ypipe (part facing the motor),,, mine split there last winter and I rebuilt a motor because of it.
I haven't seen any crack's, and I don't hear any leak's under hood. I may pull it and check thought.....could that realy cause it to run lean ????
I have a fuel pressure tester at work, lot of good that's doing right now. Any idea what fuel preuuse should be ? My service cd dosn't say....or I haven't found it yet. I did check and the lines arn't pinched or block.
Now something I forgot to metichon.....From the firt time I took it out yester day it seemd REALY diffrent than last year.....or even when I pull it to my house to work on it. It acted like ZIPPY, like it's had a clutch kit or a pipe on it.....but it dosn't have eather. I have heard "Lean is Mean" but that was just crazy pep....from take off to WOT is was a lot diffrent, under hard throtle it ran like a "raped ape", but as soon as you would try and cruse 1 speed it would start blubering and sounding funny, it did that a little last year but not like this.......
After reading my service cd there are ONLY a few thing's that control air/fuel. The Tps, the Coolant senor, and the Air temp sensor. I was able to get my ocoloscope to day and I'm going to check the Freq range on the Air and Coolant sensor.....take's a Arctic Cat test to c/k the Tps.
Ok, made some progress. I had set my sled to multy fuel to try and richen the mixture. Well it seemed to make a HUGE diffrence, they didn't look to bad. The plugs still looked a little shy on iol so I am now running some light premix...like 80 to 1. I made a couple of long hard run's down the road...about 2 miles one way.....plugs look good, I like to see a little more oil on the plug but that is easy enought to fix with adj of the oil pump.
So any one think it will be "SAFE" to ride this way, once I get the oil pump turned up to match. I'm just a little scared that noe my sled is as rich as it can be made(with out moddifying temp sensor readings).
The only thing I can figure is that my sled must have had a REALY poor air flow design from ther factory. My sled also seem's faster than last year in the trail's, it's snappy at 55 now, has NO issue carrying the ski's over hill's.....I hope I'm safe cause I like this.
Now I have more part''s that I have yet to install, a change in gearing and a clutch kit. Will eather one of these affect the Air Fuel mixture. I don't have any way to make it richer if it changes again. Should I be safe, has any one had to rejet after one of those changes ????
Where I sled: Newberry, Grayling, Home, anywhere there is snow
Posts: 10,043
I have always been told that a sled will run its best right before it dies,,, so I would still say be darned careful.
A clutch kit or gearing change will not make a difference as far as your air/fuel ratio,,,
I honestly do not remember where I am running as far as pressure in the fuel line. I know I am running it wide open (no reduction at all) for a while. I have a new motor and want to break it in before reducing the fuel on it.
