Reed Valve Overview - Snowmobile World : Your #1 Snowmobile Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-09-2003, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-17-2003, 09:29 PM
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anything special to know about cleaning the valves i noticed mine need to be cleaned i was going to use the dremael tool on them.Any suggestions?
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-22-2003, 02:55 AM
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I'd say your safe flipping the petals at least once when you find they don't lay down well. Give them the lift and snap shut test,if they close but don't "snap' closed replacement may be in needed.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-25-2003, 01:45 AM
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I was noticing on Boyesen Rad cages that there is no reed stops,just a plate to hold the reeds in place.Is this a better way to allow more air/fuel to the motor.In other words if you removed the reed stops from a stock cage?Any comments?
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-26-2003, 04:19 AM
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motor'n, the stock reeds are long flexable individual fingers and actaully can open against the stops. The boyesons are short wide stiff, they don't need stops beacause they don't move that far. I've bent stops before to allow stock reeds to open farther, kinda a cheesey mod, wouldn't work on the series3 doos, no room. if you pulled the stops the reeds wouldn't last long. I have experimented and tried to make the stock reeds stiffer and remove the stops, long story.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-26-2003, 11:39 PM
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Hillpounder,lets say you ran high tension carbontech's in a stock cage. Would removing the stops then still be a bad idea,even on a modified trial sled?
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-27-2003, 02:51 AM
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I have no experience with the hi tens carbontech, not sure if you run them with or without stops, you'd have to call and ask? Boyesen owns carbontech BTW. The stops allow plenty of lift height on the ser3 cage IMO.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-25-2003, 10:32 PM
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Just read the article, thanks for your time in efforts in this endeavor. Now for the question. Just purchased a 01 MXZ700 with 3900 KM's on it and after reading your article want to change the as preventative maintenance to be safe. Obviously the OEM reeds are decent, but there seems to be a wide variety of options in this market. While extra performance would be a bonus, this being my first sled a stock configuration I'm sure is adequate. That being said should I go with OEM reeds or an aftermarket reed for better reliability. What is the average cost for this type of product and any suggested Canadian suppliers would be appreciated. Thanks so much!


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-27-2003, 03:05 AM
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There are two real options here, based on the amount of cost and performance increase that one is looking for. 1st are replacement reeds. In this catagory, you have 3 real players, stock, Boyseen, and CarbonTech. IMO, the best bang for the buck are the Boyseen Reeds. They are just as reliable (or more than some) as the OEM reeds, and will give a noticeable gains in throttle reponse with the dual petal design, and at a cost for less than OEM.

2nd are the entire aftermarket cage design. While I have yet to use a set, PSI has a unique aproach to their 1st take into this market, with aluminum cages and a 3 petal design. But for what I have used, I am a fan of the RAD valves by Boyseen. I am not trying to being biased, but Boyseen has been in the buissnes for a LONG time, and they manufacture unique cages for each design. Some others use only 1 or 2 different cages and "adapt" them to fit into your engine. I can not see any effeciency coming from such a thought. Many have had great luck with V Force also, but pay attention to what series you purcahse, as they have had recalls and notices for failing components on certain models.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-13-2006, 05:22 PM
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I have 2 REVs and am getting ready to install V-Force 3 reeds in place of the stock stuff and I have heated carbs on both sleds and the throttle bodies on the 600ho SDI REV so I am wondering what special things I might have to do to do this properly?

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Id like to do the SDI without removing the throttle bodies (just backing them out of the way) and also not having to drain down the coolant like the manual says Id have to do. Anyone done this and do you have pictures?

What to plug lines with for the heated carbs also?
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