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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2006, 08:39 AM
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I would almost bet that we can find more testimonials from cat owners running amsoil with good luck that we can find with them having bad luck. I have personally ran the amsoil interceptor since 03 and regularly clean my valves and it seems every time I pull them, they are clean. But I still pull them and check them along with keeping the cables adjusted properly. When I can get these kind of results with the amsoil and spend half as much per gallon as I would with the cat synthetic,,,, I know I will continue to run the amsoil.




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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2006, 11:01 AM
 
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I have always used APV in the cat's I have owned. My 02 zl 600 ss has only has 2400 miles on it, but all w/o any power valve issues. Valves cleaned at the end of each season and cables check at the beginning of the season.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2006, 09:01 PM
 
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[quote]
I would almost bet that we can find more testimonials from cat owners running amsoil with good luck that we can find with them having bad luck. I have personally ran the amsoil interceptor since 03 and regularly clean my valves and it seems every time I pull them, they are clean. But I still pull them and check them along with keeping the cables adjusted properly. When I can get these kind of results with the amsoil and spend half as much per gallon as I would with the cat synthetic,,,, I know I will continue to run the amsoil.
[/quo
If I could buy ams for half the price of apv and not have to worry bout cleaning my valves again that would be a gift from God.You must be an ams dealer.You cant buy ams in michigan for half the cost of apv.If I could I would consider it ,but its more than apv at the shops I have dealt with!
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2006, 09:21 PM
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IMO the issues revolve more around proper jetting and settings of the oil pumps that the oil themselves.

We have had to turn 4-6 turns leaner on F7s to get them at a "normal" range.

If you are running that much oil into it, I dont care what brand it is, it will gum up the valves.

But again, guys will spend $8000-$12000 on a sled, $500 on a Helmet, $700 on a set of clothes, $300 for a muffler, $2500 for a trailer, but limit themselves to the cheapest oil they can find to save $5 a gallon.

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-17-2006, 04:56 PM
 
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Heard alot of amsoil testimonials from cat owners.Needless to say they werent pleased.Run your manufacturers oil.Do you think amsoil does more r&d on cats with there oil than team arctic with apv?Its your choice but id run apv cat lubricants.[/b]
like I said earlier

it is not the oil

it is the poor design of the system

My valves are clean using Bardahl

it is my cables that are the problem with fraying on my sled

same goes with the 500 and 8/900 issues

it is not the oil

its the pins on the 500s and the 800/900s valves that need shimming

If you use more oil your valves will gum up or stick and it does not matter what 2S oil you use its the oil ratio

The guy I boutgh my sled from switched to Shell from Cat APV and found the valves to be cleaner

I switched to Bardahl from Shell and notice no dif in cleansyness(sp?)
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-17-2006, 05:05 PM
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"If I could buy ams for half the price of apv and not have to worry bout cleaning my valves again that would be a gift from God.You must be an ams dealer.You cant buy ams in michigan for half the cost of apv.If I could I would consider it ,but its more than apv at the shops I have dealt with!"


Nope, I am not an amsoil dealer,,, got a friend who is one and I am trying to talk them into just getting a couple of 55 gallon drums next year and then sell them bulk. I know I can help them right here on the site and it will also get oil to our members cheaper.
I would have to go out to the garage, but I believe I bought my last gallon of interceptor from her for 25-27$$ A gallon of cat synthetic (apv) at the dealership is 40$. So it isnt quite half price, but when I save 15$ a gallon or so,,, and I get a GOOD QUALITY OIL,,, thats a bargain to me. As it was mentioned earlier,,, why do some people go out and spend thousands of dollars on a sled and then 10$ on a gallon of elcheapo oil??? That doesnt make sense at all,,,




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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-17-2006, 07:56 PM
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Another issue that causes the valves to repeatedly stick is not having the passage they ride in 100% clean. The valve starts to float on the grime, doesn't adequately pass exhaust heat to the cylinder head and gums up quickly. Guilotines with excessive clearance are candidates too. The new 800R Rotax has better cooling around the valve to address this issue on E-Raves.

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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-18-2006, 12:49 PM
 
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In 3300 miles I have only had two issues with mine...

Once two years ago, the cables apparently had water in them. When sitting at an idle the valves wouldn't cycle. I warmed the sled up, shut it down and let it sit for 20 min. and they broke free.

Last year, I managed to wrap the cables the wrong way around the servo drum , apparently had to many beers while finishing the job....doooouh!

I don't clean my valves until fall, it took me like 40 min. from start to finish this year with no problems.

I use Injex Pro...the valves are gummy but funtioning after 1500 miles... about what I would expect from any oil.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-19-2006, 09:34 AM
 
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I blew a spark plug on my last ride at 50mph on my F7 2004. Is it possible I'm too rich in oil? I also noticed that the engine seemed to run richer in the midrange. The guy who had my sled before used polaris synth oil. Really messy in there when I opened it up. Also last weekend, I took out the cylinders. I removed the ''stopper Gasket'' on the APV valve and put it back. I slided the piston and could feel it rub the valve. So beware to this gasket, it can cost you a piston kit.
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