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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-18-2005, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
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yea but if i gear it down i will lose my topend. won't i? and i'm all about top speed. this thing pulls hard with the gear ratio that i have now. 18-54
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-19-2005, 02:03 PM
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I'm gunna have to agree with awol, if they open all the way under no load. then there is too much load when moving to open all the way. I would gear down.also if they are slipping there is too much load and not enough weight to pinch the belt. Gear down and add weight to the primary. Also add more spring tension to the secondary.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-19-2005, 02:07 PM
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You're saying you're running an 18:54 ratio? That's better than I thought from the picture you have here and the "belt slippage" you told of earlier.

At 8000 engine RPM, not including overdrive of the CVT, you should be around the 60mph mark with 8" o.d. wheels.

Now I'm betting a newer/different drive clutch would help you. What's on there reminds me of an old moto-ski or similar and a different clutch with better tech may be the best cure?

What exactly do you have there? A 340?

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-20-2005, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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yes, its a 1976 rotax 340cc engine. and yes i am running a 18 jackshaft sprocket and a 54 final drive axle sprocket. that would give me a 3 to 1 gear ratio. but what gets me is when i took it out and it ran strong for like 6-7 laps then i shut down to wait for the friend to come , unloaded him and we started up took off and then thats when it started to slip and did not stop. is their something that ether got hot or cooled that changed things. today i took the drive and driven to a snowmobile shop, i wanted to get some new parts for the driven and just took the drive with. the tech said that the drive looked good, wheels looked good bushings looked good and weights the same. but the driven? well that was another story, the plastic runners were shot, and were the runners fit into, it looked like someone had at one time ran it without the runners but with the new runners it should be ok. and that peace that ride on the runner was not looking good. he said it should have a flat surface were it would ride on the runners but they were a bit rounded. and the bushings were ok. SO i don't know if any of that would cause slipping but. all i did was put new runners on it. so what he recommended was to put the spring in the 6th hole turn it 1/4 and see what that would do for me. he thought i should get a replacement driven clutch but right now i need to spend the money on other things, you know what i mean? so i just helped it a bit and see what happens saturday. i don't know what else to do. i guess if i still get slipping i will have to go with the gear reduction. thanks.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-21-2005, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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ok guys,
well i put the clutch together today. first i was putting the driven clutch together and snapped the runners pins off $13 down the drain, went and bought another set, put the clutch together and took it out for a ride behind my house, like, 2 1/2 blocks long and back. what happen this time was that the clutch slipped at takeoff but once it engaged, WOW, torque from engagment till i let go of the gas. unreal power. that was with the 18/54. so then i called the snowmobile shop and told the guy what it had done and he told me to change from the #6 setting on the driven to #3 and see what that would do. he said it need more preload. did that and it help a bit, so then i changed to 16/54 but it seemed to still slip till engagement. i'm just afraid if i go too low with the ratio that the engine would scream too much and not go anywere. but right now i am going to take it out tomorrow and see what happens. but i'll tell you what for a 1976 340 engine it pulls hard. but no slipping at engagement (topend) before i had slipping start to stop. all i did was change the runners. hope it holds up to the test. and a test it will be. thanks.
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-23-2005, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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well guys. i beleive i found my problem. when i put my driven clutch back together i had turned the moveable sheave clockwise insted of counterclockwise. what a BIG differance that made. now i can get my gear ratio back were it was. again, thanks. now what i have to do is see if it holds up to its fix. we'll see. and i'll keep you all posted. thanks.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-18-2005, 10:44 AM
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any updates? working good now? :thumbsup:

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