[xltier]

we have installed a edge with extensions on a xtra 10 model.the problem were having is that we cant get enough spring pressure and shock pressure on the first part of the rear shocks travel.it has way to much sag in and bottoms out a lot.tried springs on thye high setting and moved the rollers back a hole.ive noticed following him that his skis spend a lot of time in the air.doesnt turn well and lifts alot.is it possible that the skid is in wrong causing us to lose help with the front spring on initial squat.weve tried adjusting that one too.im thinking from reading on here lately that the front of the skid is too low to the ground.thus holding up the front of the sled and causing all these problems.also what would it do if we moved the center pivoting mount back one hole??seems it would cause the rear too work sooner.tia.

 

[timespentsearching]

move the front torque arm hole down 7/8 of an inch, make sure you have the same distance to the rear hole so it will not be exactly striaght down. you will have more traction and will get ride of the sag

 

[xltier]

cant go any lower,besides,wouldnt that put more of the weight on the front of the skid???its light out front now.

 

[michahicks]

<<<move the front torque arm hole down 7/8 of an inch>>>

That would be the wrong way. Where did that come from?

Jerry Butler, a shock rebuilder that goes by jbshocks.com has some dimensions posted on his website that have been used many times for this conversion. I've helped out answering questions on many of these conversions too. Have done 4 of my own. Be glad to help. The best place to start is to confirm that the suspension has been installed properly, make changes as required. From there it's all a matter of setup - easy. If install is close, but not spot on, holler. Sometimes it's possible to compensate knowing what's not right.

Go here: http://jbshocks.com/edgemount.JPG

 

[timespentsearching]

you would think its the wrong way but its not. i just did it a few eeks ago to my pro x and it amazing. i got the tip from AKracing. my sag went from 4 inches to under 1. the suspension angle change some and it makes the front and rear torque arms couple better and the wiehgt is tranfered across the skid better = less bottoming. it will take a little more ski pressure away though. as for the ski pressure, looses the front torque arm preload, tighten up the rear and loosen the ski preloads some. also put the rear transfer blocks up a setting or two, from low to med or high or from med to high. this will also imporve ski pressure.

 

[xltier]

you would think its the wrong way but its not. i just did it a few eeks ago to my pro x and it amazing. i got the tip from AKracing. my sag went from 4 inches to under 1. the suspension angle change some and it makes the front and rear torque arms couple better and the wiehgt is tranfered across the skid better = less bottoming. it will take a little more ski pressure away though. as for the ski pressure, looses the front torque arm preload, tighten up the rear and loosen the ski preloads some. also put the rear transfer blocks up a setting or two, from low to med or high or from med to high. this will also imporve ski pressure.[/b]

all that is assuming that the skid is properly installed.if you read the original post it says after a swap job.we tryied a 2x4 under the front shock and that made it fall down by itself.

 

[xltier]

<<<move the front torque arm hole down 7/8 of an inch>>>

That would be the wrong way. Where did that come from?

Jerry Butler, a shock rebuilder that goes by jbshocks.com has some dimensions posted on his website that have been used many times for this conversion. I've helped out answering questions on many of these conversions too. Have done 4 of my own. Be glad to help. The best place to start is to confirm that the suspension has been installed properly, make changes as required. From there it's all a matter of setup - easy. If install is close, but not spot on, holler. Sometimes it's possible to compensate knowing what's not right.

Go here: http://jbshocks.com/edgemount.JPG[/b]

al-sorry to hear about your crank,good luck with getting it done quick!!.hope i dont seem to ignorant but i dont seem to be able to make heads or tails with that pic of m.m. measurrments. we tried to follow me 02 edge.i know your busy with yous own probs but could u explain those measurments to me.thnks

 

[michahicks]

Timespent - I'm very familiar with who you are talking about. He obviously understands suspensions really well and is right on the money generally, as he was with the fix for your ProX (mostly due to the way high front end most guys insist on having those set up with). I've read his article regarding that and agree with most of it.

Xltier - the important dimensions are the ones between the suspension mounts (23 7/8" - 24") and the distance down to each mounting hole from the top of the tunnel. Get those close, matching what you have to your Edge or any way you'd like, and we've got something to work with. -Al

 

[xltier]

Timespent - I'm very familiar with who you are talking about. He obviously understands suspensions really well and is right on the money generally, as he was with the fix for your ProX (mostly due to the way high front end most guys insist on having those set up with). I've read his article regarding that and agree with most of it.

Xltier - the important dimensions are the ones between the suspension mounts (23 7/8" - 24") and the distance down to each mounting hole from the top of the tunnel. Get those close, matching what you have to your Edge or any way you'd like, and we've got something to work with. -Al[/b]

moved the skid back 1 inch and up the tunnel 13/4 inch.back of sled sits up where it belongs now.before the flap would hit on sitting.now it only sags 2 inches when sitting on.still hard to believe that the front being down would cause the rear shock to be weak.thanks mhicks.