My Hot Seat clutch kit works great for both. Everyone that rides it also says the clutching is "perfect." Awesome in the trails for backshift. MBRP B & B Eliminator silencer too so you can hear the motor working.
I would like to know of kits made of polaris parts, spring rates, weights, helix etc. I know most people will not share their secrets, I'm new to clutching and would appreciate the suggestions.I am currently using an almond/blue primary spring, 60 gram arms, stock r11 helix and stock silver/ blue secondary spring. This helped pull down the rpm to 7800 and gained about 2 lenghts over stock, but I have a friend with a 2001 600xcsp that is stock other than clutch mods and beats mine by about 2 lengths and runs more mph to continue pulling away the further we run. I have spent quite a bit on clutch pieces to help figure out what works and would like to get some input.
7900 RPM is not where the 600EV should run. Try a Black/Green spring: 120-340 instead of blue/wht: 120-310 or alm/blue: 150-310..I think. With 10-60s or 62s and the black green spring, the engine will engage at a lower RPM, but be forced to rev out in the low 8's.
Peak torque on this motor is around 7700 and peak hp is at 8000 but it drops off quick after 8100 so I would shoot for 8000 rpm to 8100 any more and you will lose hp.I clutched mine to pull 77 to 78 in the midrange and to pull 8100 top end.
Before you go into clutching this close find someone that can check the Calibration of your tach because I have seen them off as much a 300 rpm.
If I understand correctly, (and please correct me if i'm wrong), heavier weights will create more "squeeze" on the belt and shift it out quicker thus loading the motor and pulling down rpm, but the extra mass from the increased weight will make the clutch open slower, making for slower backshift. Is this were the multitude of primary spring choices come into play, and what effect does pre tension and shift tension rate have on the clutch ?
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