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Discussion Starter #1
99 800 XCR spins track helplessly at nearly any speed when it can't find something to sink it's studs into. I know there isn't a lot of clearance between the track and the front heat exchanger. Wondering if any one has run a 1.25" track on this chassis.

Next question would be if and what length studs were run?

Would like to do this, and a 136" M-10 conversion soon. Any info appreciated. Currently running stock track, 121" M-10, and 1.075 Woody's.

Thanks,
AL
 

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Michahicks,

I'm surprised you can't hook. I always enjoy reading your posts because I have found you to be one of the most knowledgable people here in terms of suspension setup.
That aggressive chassis weights a ton, if you transfer that wieght to the track and get a little ski lift it should hook up great.

Have you tried tightening up the preload on the front spring? worked great for me. Gives a bumpy ride though.

I would try to better transfer the weight before shelling out $700 for a new track.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mad,
I'm happy with performance on hard pack and ice (arms are permanently stretched!). Second home is on a small airstrip (unobstructed, 1/2 mile dragstrip in winter<G>), can't seem to get out of my own way in the normal 12" + snow out there. Can't seem to transfer enough power to anything ..... until you see a roostertail of grass/dirt (generating complaints from my brother each spring! 15" x200' bare spots are hard to explain..).

I've heard a lot about the ride/handling/traction of the 136" setup. Will need to get a track to do that anyway. Thinking for the extra few bucks, I'd like to try the 1.25" track while I'm at it.

I'm a big guy at 6'2",280. The sled and I get along very well together in the corners. If I add any weight to the front of the rear suspension I get ski lift when I don't want it, and pushing issues in the corners. The front is set up as light as I can get away with now, is I guess what I'm trying to say.

I may have to use this as an excuse to go to the Gen II chassis...

Thanks for the compliment.

AL
 

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I own a 97 Ultra spx(aggresive body),great sled,fast and comfortable,I streched it last year, and it made a world of difference,went to a 136" 1.25" Camoplast predator,w/slp rail extentions and oem tunnel ext.,the long track really gets the H.P.to the snow,and makes the front end a whole bunch lighter,I also am a bigger guy,6',265 lbs,so I can appreciate your situation, had no problem w/1.25",I bought my track from tracks USA,Bruce is real good,and has great prices. :D ,hope this helps,any questions,[email protected] [email protected] Good luck! SWRules
 

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UBuck, why the OEM Tunnel extension and not the SLP extension? I am curious because I am looking at putting the SLP kit on my sled. Is the Polaris extension better fit and finish or is there another reason.

Thanks
 

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I thought the oem looked stock,I did'nt care for the brushed aluminum on slp, I guess its all up to what you like,as far as f/f,my nepew has slp tunnel ext. on his Edge and it looks great,whatever you end up using,it'll work awsome :D
 

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Unclebuck - Great to see a pic like yours. I am currently in the process of doing the 136 conversion on my '99 XLT SP. Should look pretty much the same as yours. Do you know if a 1.5 will fit under the sled. I will post a pic of mine when I am done.
 

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hey slinger,one of my nepews has an 96 storm trip/trip,in the aggresive body,he and I both did the stretch at the same time,but he runs a 136" 1.5" paddle and all he did was remove his tunnel protectors w/no problems,so I would say you can put a 1.5" paddle on yours :) ,and I cant wait to see a pic ;) also,check with your dealer to see if you should regear your sled,the 700 ultra/800 storm worked good,just not sure about the 600,w/a big block you should be in the powerband,anyhow good luck :D later
 

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Great, that's good to hear. Off to the Elk River, MN swap meet here in a few minutes to try and find a track. I am going to put in 19/39 gears to start out with and am also changing the clutching and putting in a T1 helix from a storm. The gearing and clutching suggestions are coming from a buddy of mine that is a polaris mechanic up in Big Fork, MN. Should be great.

Now off to the swap meet with a wad of cash and a shopping list.... :D
 

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micachicks..the 1.25 will help out especially if it is a 136,but the other problem is the m-10 it doesnt like weight transfer,i ran a 136 m-10 with a 1.25 and always had a problem with weight transfer(hook up)the ride is second to none,i loved it but was tired of lack of weight transfer and some top end loss,maybe a 1.5 would help some more(on a 136)
 

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I just found this forum, great site, turns out I am currently in the process of swapping in a 121 1.25" track to my '99 xcr 800. Have any of you guy run studs on the 1.25 tracks in the Agressive body?

Like michahicks, I am worried about the front heat exhanger.

I was able to get a great deal on a track this summer and I was planning on running 1.38" studs in it.
To combat the added weight of the track and studs I was planning on dropping a tooth on the top gear, going to a 23/39.

Would be great to hear that someone has already run a studded 1.25" in this chassis without problems.

Thanks,

George
 

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You will always lose some hook up and top end with an M10. The price for comfort. Any long track will smooth out the bumps compared to a short track. If hook up is one of the things you are looking for, you are probably best just extending your skid. I run a long track M10, 1.25" paddles, and I don't hook up on hardpack like everyone else. In powder it does pretty well, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I originally started this note a while back, thought I might chime in here on what I've done about it. After a lot of research, endless questions, etc., I've sold the aggressive chassis XCR, and have gone with a GenII. Am currently in the process of swapping the original track for a 121x1.125 (1 1/8") Predator finger type track that is SUPPOSED to do pretty well under most trail conditions. Back up plan is studing. We'll see. Sure would be nice to see some acceptable performance without the stud induced headaches...Will add M/10 as part of track swap - you're darn right I kept it !!

AL
 

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Well I have the track and it's just about all studded, I'll see how it fits and what type of clearance I have. If there is not enough room I'll go to 8 tooth drivers or perhaps roll the chaincase.

Thanks,

George
 

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Ok I've got everything apart except the drive shaft. I've read two descriptions of removing the shaft and both say to slide the shaft to the speedo side and then the chaincase side should come free. I've got 4 drivers on the shaft, when the left most driver hits the tunnel on the speedo side, there is not enough room to clear on the other.

Do I need to remove the bearing on the chaincase side to get the axle out? Or am I missing something.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

George
 

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Your at that point where it would be easier to just remove the 4 bolts holding the chaincase and take it out of the sled. Yeah sure you have to remove the brake caliper, but what does that take 3 minutes? I have never had to pull a 4 driver shaft but I've been told it's a pain and i have removed a chaincase without any problems. good luck.
 

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Thanks,

I found a similar answer in the Snowest forum. With the four drivers you need to pull the chaincase too.

Shouldn't take me too much extra time.

George
 

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Hi All
I currently run a 99 xcr800 and had some of the same troubles.. I was also thinking long tracking it but I tried a few thing and it helped.. First off i ran a 97 skid instead of the 99..The 99 is decent for trail riding and long lake racing but does give up the some transfer with the different rail profile.. The stock track was terrible for anything over 5"s of snow. I run a 1" pred cross country track with 192 studs.. On the agggressive chassis you can't run the 1.25 with studs just wont clear.. The Gen11 will allow room for the 1,25 with studs but it's getting close..Just found this site today good to see post on TRIPPLES!!! I have nothing against twins well maybe alittle :p

steve
 

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I did put the 1.25 on my '99 xcr 800. I ended up replacing the stock 9 tooth drivers with 8 tooth drivers.
Had some weird problems getting four matched drivers due to errors from two different suppliers, but it's finally back together.

Only got to ride it for the first time yesterday, but the hookup is was unreal.

Due the the 8 tooth drivers I geared up to 25/39 from the stock 24/39. With the smaller diameter drivers and the new gears I'm running at 7.4% lower gearing than stock. Which is just a little less than if I had gone down two teeth on the top (8.4%).

I'm in NH and the trails are hard packed to say the least. I have 168 1.375 studs on the track and it got pretty decent bite. I might go to 192 just to fill out track with 4 per lug.

Sure brought smile to my face the first time I got to really hit the throttle. I'm definitely glad I went through the swap. The hardest part was waiting for the right parts to arrive.

Going to the 8 tooth drivers gives you a little more than .4 inches more clearance.

George
 
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