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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,



This is my first sled, I have little to no experience. Only driven one for a couple hours had some good fun including some drifting on ice in a field which led to a roll over :rolleyes: But still good times.

On the weekend I bought a sled from a friend of mine which he had sitting for 2 years because the recoil cable broke and he never got around to fixing it. So I decided I would buy it and it really isnt in that bad of shape I got it pretty cheap, it does need a few things but nothing to big that I can tell. First thing I did was replace the gas cap because there was a crack in it, so now I want to clean the gas tank before I put gas in it. Anyone know a easy way of doing that? I then took the exhaust system off to get to the recoil starter and got the cord to come through and mounted it on the handle, I am worried about the length of cord as its about 6-8 feet. Is that long enough or am going to have to take the whole recoil apart? The handle will reach to the end of the sled. The second issue is that it takes about 2 feet for the cord to catch before I can pull it is that ok? Another concern is the oil, its been sitten in the tank for about 2 years I have been told as long as its not used then its fine which I agree but I am concerned about moister contaminating the oil, anyone else I agree I change it? If so is there a hose I can just disconnect to drain it? Also there is a primer located just above the pull handle, is that to pump oil/gas into the cyclinder prior to starting? How and when would I use the primer? Is it like a choke? To give you guys a idea on the condition of the sled, there is not one hose that needs to be replaced. No cracks on gaskets, even the belt looks good and it also has a brand new belt on the holder. Which I have been told they should be removed from the sled when in storage to prevent warping. True?


Things like Skis and the track will need to be replaced and there are some bends in the skis and the track has lots of wear cracks. Also the brake rotor, is that a floating rotor? Because it feels lose, you can move it side to side back and forth. Is that normal?

There is also a few cracks in the hood nothing major but I want to attempt to fix them, anyone recommend some kind of epoxy to fix them? Is it made out of plastic or fiberglass, I think its plastic.


Thanks guys.
 

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replace recoil

they are a pain in the...........

do not worry about the oil as contaminated oil is milky and 99% chance you do not have any moisture in the oil tank

Gas is a diferent story,drain tank and clean the carbs

Primer is 2-3 squirts,you will feel the pressure of the gas as some time the line is dry and pushing the primer does nothing til you feel the gas/pressure

So no more then 3 squirts,keep primer pull out and pull the recoil and the sled will start 9 time out of ten on the 1st pull,when it goes to stall slowly push primer which should stop it from stalling,remember not to give too much though

get Flex plastic skis you can find good used ones for $100 or so

yes its a floating rotor for the brake disc

BTW is it a Formula Plus 2 OR a Formula Plus XTC(longtrack/2up seat)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
replace recoil

they are a pain in the...........

do not worry about the oil as contaminated oil is milky and 99% chance you do not have any moisture in the oil tank

Gas is a diferent story,drain tank and clean the carbs

Primer is 2-3 squirts,you will feel the pressure of the gas as some time the line is dry and pushing the primer does nothing til you feel the gas/pressure

So no more then 3 squirts,keep primer pull out and pull the recoil and the sled will start 9 time out of ten on the 1st pull,when it goes to stall slowly push primer which should stop it from stalling,remember not to give too much though

get Flex plastic skis you can find good used ones for $100 or so

yes its a floating rotor for the brake disc

BTW is it a Formula Plus 2 OR a Formula Plus XTC(longtrack/2up seat)[/b]


There is no gas in the tank now, but I am worried that there could be debri in there. Also the molding around the airfilter is torn and looks like there some dust in the airfilter box so I wanted to clean it out. I am trying to figure out a easy way to remove the gas tank for a better inspection but cant figure it out and how in the world do you remove the seat?!?! What are flex skis?
 

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To remove the seat you will need some good quality penetrating oil and start liberally spraying the two 10mm nuts under the rear snow flap at the rear of the tunnel. If you don't go carefully removing said nuts you will break the studs off and need to remove the seat cover to repair them. Take your time with these nuts. Once the nuts are removed the seat slides rear ward and you disconnect the plug for the tail lights between the tank and seat. A better way would be to remove the fuel pick up line at the front of the tank and clean the strainer and flush the tank with varsol and a 1" stiff bristled paint brush taped to a stick. Go at it through the filler neck and then rinse with some gas. You could use water and let it dry out for a few weeks and add ISO alcohol to your first tank full of fuel. I would get some storage oil and spray it down the cylinders and in the carburetor throats the turn the motor back and fourth to lube the dry parts. The carbs will need to be completely disassembled one at a time (use the assembled one for reference). Make sure you have some good quality screw drivers to overhaul the carbs. All the jets (pilot & mains) might as well be replaced with new ones from Royal Distributing. The main advice here is take your time and ask plenty of questions.
 

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Flex skis are plastic units which were installed on most Ski Doos starting in 1997. Prior to that there were heavy steel bridged plastic soled units which were marginally better that the dead lead steel units installed on 1984 till 1994. The flex add as much as 4" of suspension to the front end as they "flex" on the Moguls. BTW where in Ontario are you located?. You have been sledding a very long time as your signature says year started sledding: 1007. Wow I thought I was old LOL !
 

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when you reinstall your exhaust, clean each joint with brake clean and a small wire brush, let it dry, then apply some good high temp. silicon sealant to the joints just before reassembly. no exhaust leaks, engine runs better. the recoil should be rebuilt, new rope and maybe a new "lockring spring", this is the spring that you see right away after you take the recoil off. for the injection oil, there is a filter that should be replaced on the hose that comes from the bottom of the oil tank, it looks like a fuel filter but its a oil filter. the primer works better if after no use for a while, pull it out, and then spray the shaft with WD-40. for skis, plastic skis work better than metal ones. after market skis are better than the originals. with your sled i would put wide skis on it to help keep the nose out of the snow. i use C&A PRO skis they work really good at reducing "darting" and they eliminate alot of the small "stutter bumps". they cost more but improve the sled alot. your brake rotor is a floating rotor but the "key" and "key-way" do wear and you get movement. look closely at the "jack-shaft" that the rotor is on, the chain inside the chain case could be loose. there is a bolt on the top side of the chain case with a hair pin clip that goes through the head of the bolt, remove the clip and turn the bolt by hand clock-wise, hand tight not wrench tight, if the holes don't line up, back the bolt up to the next closest hole. the hood is plastic. to repair it, use plastic epoxy and on the inside of the hood there is a tape that you use, its like dry wall tape, you can get it at auto parts stores. surfaces need to be cleaned, lightly sanded, cracks beveled, taped, epoxyed. your carbs have 260 mains, 35 piliots, the "e"clip on the needle on the third or middle position, float level with the carb upside down should be 23-25 mm.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Great info guys thanks!


So I thought I would start with the air intake box. I losened off the hose clamps off the carbs then proceeded to take off the airbox.


Here are some pics












The wiring harness is that 1 peice unit or can I replace just cables?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So anyone know what to do about this Trottle cable harness? Is this a easy to get part or am I screwed?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I might be in luck I was searching through my Royal Distributing catolog and found a throttle cable that I am 99% sure it will work for me.

Its on page 198 part #05-139-57 its $27



And those 2 cables that have nothing connected to it, I believe is for an optional E-start
 

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Yes, I believe the two cables did attach to a battery for electric start. Id say someone removed most of it if you dont see the battery or the electris starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My friend confirmed that it was probably for a battery, but it never had e-start but there was a option for it. So tomorrow I will be ordering the throttle harness from Royal after work. I will keep everyone poseted on this project, its quite exiciting.



Also for those who asked,


I am in Barrie Ontario

Only sled experience I have was last year at the farm on the brother Polaris Indy 440


Other then the 2 hours I spent driving it, thats all the experience I have with sleds. But I love working on them, things are going so smoothly. I just hate when I find something that needs attention.


My Goal for this sled.


It will be a trail sled for me and my better half


MAYBE one day I might do some flat circle racing-keeping the sled stock


So for now my budget is about $600- I figure I can get it going and make it trail ready for $600-


Besides fixing all the little kinks-

I want too-

Clean the stuff off the engine which I plan to use kerosene- works very well
fix cracks in the hood- hope to do in a couple months
clean airbox
clean fuel tank
replace or add fuel line filter
replace or add oil line filter
replace throttle cables
replace track with another 3/4" or 1" (need help in this area)
add a rack to carry extra fuel-tools-blankets-supplies(I cant find one to fit this sled, need help)
check head light- seems a little lose
replace skis- everyone tells me plastic skis are the best and the wider the better ( I will be riding mostly trails and frozen lakes- might not replace them till next season depending on cost)

replace suspension (next season- about $150 per end- most likely going gas, most newer sleds have gas suspension not hydrallic dont know why)
check gauges (speedo-tach-fuel-etc)
change engine coolant(not sure when it was last changed- I did open cap)




Anything else to add? Or suggestions



I am pretty confident in about doing just about anything with this sled, I have a couple hours to spend on it here and there thats why I started checking it over now and not in October. I still want to know what that 3rd cable does on the throttle cable harness just after the carbs.....
 

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My friend confirmed that it was probably for a battery, but it never had e-start but there was a option for it. So tomorrow I will be ordering the throttle harness from Royal after work. I will keep everyone poseted on this project, its quite exiciting.
Also for those who asked,
I am in Barrie Ontario

Only sled experience I have was last year at the farm on the brother Polaris Indy 440
Other then the 2 hours I spent driving it, thats all the experience I have with sleds. But I love working on them, things are going so smoothly. I just hate when I find something that needs attention.
My Goal for this sled.
It will be a trail sled for me and my better half
MAYBE one day I might do some flat circle racing-keeping the sled stock
So for now my budget is about $600- I figure I can get it going and make it trail ready for $600-
Besides fixing all the little kinks-

I want too-

Clean the stuff off the engine which I plan to use kerosene- works very well
fix cracks in the hood- hope to do in a couple months
clean airbox
clean fuel tank
replace or add fuel line filter
replace or add oil line filter
replace throttle cables
replace track with another 3/4" or 1" (need help in this area)
add a rack to carry extra fuel-tools-blankets-supplies(I cant find one to fit this sled, need help)
check head light- seems a little lose
replace skis- everyone tells me plastic skis are the best and the wider the better ( I will be riding mostly trails and frozen lakes- might not replace them till next season depending on cost)

replace suspension (next season- about $150 per end- most likely going gas, most newer sleds have gas suspension not hydrallic dont know why)
check gauges (speedo-tach-fuel-etc)
change engine coolant(not sure when it was last changed- I did open cap)
Anything else to add? Or suggestions
I am pretty confident in about doing just about anything with this sled, I have a couple hours to spend on it here and there thats why I started checking it over now and not in October. I still want to know what that 3rd cable does on the throttle cable harness just after the carbs.....[/b]
The third cable goes to the lever on the oil injector pump. Check what size your carbs are (stamped on the engine side next to the throttl bore. If they are 34mm... I have some and a cable you can have.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the offer but I already bought the harness from Royal. It got me thinking though, if the oil cable was broken does that mean the engine was running strickley on gas? Or is there a shut off for when the cable breaks? Because you would never really know it broke until you take things apart....... And if the engine was run with out the pump going am I now screwed???? Do I now have garbage out in the shed?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the offer but I already bought the harness from Royal. It got me thinking though, if the oil cable was broken does that mean the engine was running strickley on gas? Or is there a shut off for when the cable breaks? Because you would never really know it broke until you take things apart....... And if the engine was run with out the pump going am I now screwed???? Do I now have garbage out in the shed?[/b]

Does anyone know how I can tell if the motor is damaged with out taking it apart, because of the oil injector?Not sure if it was running without it going. I just finished cleaning the airbox out with kerosane and water and armoral. I was even going to replace all the fuel hoses and put zip ties on the ends. Is this really nessary or am I wasting time and money?
 

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The chances are if you can turn the motor over it's OK. The previous owner may have pre mixed the oil with fuel knowing the cable was broken. These pumps on the 521 Rotax gave oil at rest position so the engine would have recieved some oil. As I said turn the motor over and listen for grinding and clicking sounds. Those older motors are bullet proof so I doubt there's too much damage if you can spin it. Besides, cables generally fail from rust during long term storage outside.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The chances are if you can turn the motor over it's OK. The previous owner may have pre mixed the oil with fuel knowing the cable was broken. These pumps on the 521 Rotax gave oil at rest position so the engine would have recieved some oil. As I said turn the motor over and listen for grinding and clicking sounds. Those older motors are bullet proof so I doubt there's too much damage if you can spin it. Besides, cables generally fail from rust during long term storage outside.[/b]

AWESOME AWESOME!


Engine turns over just fine, nothing out of the normal that I can tell. I got the harness all installed now I am not sure if theres enough slack on cable and I really cant find out until I start her up which I plan to do maybe this week!!!


So, I have never started a sled up but it seems pretty simple so here are my thoughts....



Attach safety latch
Pull out primer
Disable Kill switch
Turn on ignition
Pull cable!!!


And also have the parking brake on....

Is this all correct?


Before I start it, I am going to clean up the exhaust and find out about the seal. Am I actually siliconing the exhaust together OR am I just putting a small bead around the ends letting them dry then install the system? :undercover:
 

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All is correct as to starting her up. Gap the spark plugs at .018" and check the spark plug boots inside. They tend to corrode and carbon up causing hard starting and miss firing. You might want to consider placing the two ski tips against a wall and raising the rear end. Never stand directly behind or too near to the side of a spinning track (lots of stored energy when they break). keep cycling the primer to pull fresh fuel from the tank. The primer will feel stiffer when there's fuel in it. Once that's done give her three full shots and pull the recoil rope. Once she starts you may need to give a few additional shots while she's running when the rpm drops off, once warm idle is supposed to be 1800. The pilot air scews at the rear of the carbs (brass) should be at 1 & 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Good luck It sounds like its going to go fine.[/b]

I hope so.

Does anyone know what type and make of plugs are best for this sled? I believe it has NGK BE9R or something like that.
 
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