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Discussion Starter #1
Just took my Wildcat 700 for it's first ride. About 20 min into the ride the sled shut off. Checked the compression with my thumb and noticed that 1 cyl was dead. Towed the sled back to the garage and started to tear the engine apart. Got the head off but had a hell of a time removing the cylinder. Finally after a few bangs with a rubber hammer it finally let go. Pulled of the cylinder and noticed a lot of small peices of metal around the crank. But the crank seems fine. The metal is from the bearing on the connecting arm to the crank. It blew up!! Peices of the bearing made it to the top of the cyl and messed it up a bit, but the cyl walls seem fine. A couple small scratchs, but nothing deep. Honing should fix that.

I know I will have to replace the piston. There is a WIESCO sticker on the sled. How can I tell of the piston is Wiesco by looking at it. And can I have 2 different kinds of pistons in the sled?

The head has a few small dents in it, can I fix this without replacing?

I'm going to have to strip the engine down to the crank (First time I every did this). Any advice?

ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED!! I'M SLEDLESS AND ONLY HAVE A FEW HUNDRED $ TO WORK WITH.
 

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The head might have to be replaced depending on the size of the dents. The way you should take apart the engine is making it very orginized and keeping the bolts were they go. Sounds like stupid advice but it will save your butt.
 

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It sounds like it may work out cheaper to buy a used engine, having the crank rebuilt and a set of pistons with rings/bearings along with the nec. gaskets etc can add up in a hurry. If in doubt about doing the engine yourself it might be a good idea to enlist the help of an experience friend or find a realiable machine shop in your area.
 

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yeah this is a very common thing with this sled i know i have 2 one is a pro stock set up and the other is just mildly modded. first thin you were running very ####y oil mabe even produmax. u need to run very good oil in these machines they seem to pull evreything out of the case. i blew cranks to find out that a guy on my team he not put in klotz he tried producrap. anyhow back to the suject. if u stopped it quick u might be lucky.it is not that much $$$$. but u should get soemone at least to help u if u have not done this before. u will need to get a machine shop to press apart the crank to change that bearing. and yes it usualy is on the clutch side cennecting rod bearing that goes. it is fairely cheap to do this. remember to make shure u clean out your box there should be some crap in there. and if u go with wiesco the might be a little tight check the clearance. if u can still get stock cat it would be best they are the best i have found. good luck with this and let us know how u made out
 

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crankkits are expensive, my buddy just payed about 700 bucks for an exchanged one through some arctic cat thing.
 

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Machz, you may just have a point there, if it only needs one bearing, a piston and little else it may be economical to repair.
I hope it works out, nothing worse than the sled broken down and a little tight on dough.
Rick.
 

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Man, I don't know who you people bring your engine parts to for work, but they obviosuly rip you off. I would invest in a service manual first. That should give you the know how if you want to do this yourself or not. After reading the manual you will determine that you want to do it yourself (it's not that hard to do). I know where I live I had the crank on my zr 580 worked on including parts done for under $200. The rest is cake. DEFINATELY CHECK THE AIR BOX, CARBS AND OTHER CYLINDER FOR METAL, IT CAN GET TO THE OTHER SIDE. When or if you take the motor apart, my biggest advice is to make sure everything is cleaned very very well before assembly. If you leave a chunk of metal in the crankcase without knowing it, it will come back to haunt you. If you have any questions, ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I will definatly be tearing down the engine. I want to get a good look at all the parts to see if the metal peices caused any other problems. Especially the other cylinder. I did find peices of the bearing in the carb. From what I can see the rest of the crank is fine. The cost of the bearing is $100 Canadian. Depending on the brand piston/rings approx $80. Gaskets - $??? Machine work/honing $40-$50. and I'll do all the work myself.

Will I be able to re-use the oil seals on the crank?
 

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Originally posted by spider@Dec 2 2002, 07:49 AM
I will definatly be tearing down the engine. I want to get a good look at all the parts to see if the metal peices caused any other problems. Especially the other cylinder. I did find peices of the bearing in the carb. From what I can see the rest of the crank is fine. The cost of the bearing is $100 Canadian. Depending on the brand piston/rings approx $80. Gaskets - $??? Machine work/honing $40-$50. and I'll do all the work myself.

Will I be able to re-use the oil seals on the crank?
Get new oil seals and all new gaskets
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This engine was rebuilt before, and they didn't use any gaskets!! Some sort of silicone or something, it was a blue/green color. AND the engine never leaked a drop of antifreeze or oil!! I think I'll use the proper gaskets this time. What ever was there before worked well, but I think it's going to be a ##### to remove.
 
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