Snowmobile World banner

1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. I've been a member for quite a while but rarely post because I usually can find all the info I'm looking for by just reading and searching. However, I can't find how to change the chaincase oil on my 95 Mach 1 670. Theres plenty of info on newer Mach Z's but none that I could find on the 1995 Mach 1's. I bought the sled in 1998 with 600 miles on it and only put about 1600 miles on my sled in 10 years, so it has a total of about 2200 on it. I've always kept up with regular maintenance but have neglected to check/change the chaincase oil because I only rode a couple hundred miles a year due to being in college. Now I'm out and will have much more time to ride and am looking forward to it. Is there a drainplug? Once drained, do you just refill it through the dipstick hole? What should I check for if I take the chaincase off and inspect the chain? Lastly, since the end of last season the sled usually idles high at around 3000-4000 rpms when sitting still even after being warmed up. Where is the idle located on the two carbs? Is there one on each carb? I've been so pleased with this sled. I have had absolutely no problems other than the normal of replacing a few suspension parts, belts and carbides so its time I treat it as well at it's treated me. I appreciate the help in advance....Thanks much! Ryan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,782 Posts
First off, welcome back, hope school went well. The chaincase has no drain plug so you will have to remove the cover to drain it. I'd advise drilling a 1/2" hole into the belly pan below the chaincase (rubber plugs are available at most hardware stores). You should be looking for excess metal chunks (not small filings) in the old oil. Take the chain and wash it in varsol and dry it out. Now take a 8 X 11" piece of paper and draw a line down the middle of the long side. Place the chain (standing up on its links) along side the line holding one end in place while pushing the other end side ways. Make a mark where the chain stops its sideways movement. Now do the same in the opposite direction and make another mark. Measure the distance between the marks and if it's more than 3" replace the chain because it's stretched to the maximum. The gears also need to be checked for chipped teeth and grooves worn in to them. The tensioner should be checked for freedom of movement and grooving of the roller. Check the upper jackshaft bearings for smoothness and noise while the chain is off and check the upper seal for leaks. Now is also the time to loosen the track and check the drive shaft bearings and seals. Lastly refill the chain case with whatever lube you prefer be it mineral or synthetic (I use Dextron IV synthetic ATF) and run the sled a few times bringing it up to 20 MPH and stopping, recheck case oil level and re-tension the chain. If you have replaced the chain or any gears, you will need to periodically check the chain tension because it will stretch and seat.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top