Had this sled, more than likely chokes (enrichers) are corroded and stuck. Remove all 3 from the carbs and clean and lube. Be very careful when re-tightening them the brass on the holders is extremely thin and fragile at the threads. (from a dufus who knows)
1997 Polaris Xlt 600 Engine Question
Hello everyone
I got a quick question. I have a 1997 xlt 600 triple and i just changed the 3 muffler manifold gascets cause they were all worn out and leaking. But now its being a pain to start. It take a lot of pulls to pull it over and sometimes when i go to start it, it will backfire on just the first pull?
Could it be the valves are kinda burnt out or what?
Thanks
I got a quick question. I have a 1997 xlt 600 triple and i just changed the 3 muffler manifold gascets cause they were all worn out and leaking. But now its being a pain to start. It take a lot of pulls to pull it over and sometimes when i go to start it, it will backfire on just the first pull?
Could it be the valves are kinda burnt out or what?
Thanks
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Will that fix the backfiring to?
Sure could if the enrichers are stuck open, even it that isn't the prob it sure won't hurt to ensure they are freed up and working properly. (unless you overtighten like I did when re-installing of course) They aren't really a 'choke' they are enrichers which just allow more fuel in instead of restricting airflow like a choke would.
Hello everyone
I got a quick question. I have a 1997 xlt 600 triple and i just changed the 3 muffler manifold gascets cause they were all worn out and leaking. But now its being a pain to start. It take a lot of pulls to pull it over and sometimes when i go to start it, it will backfire on just the first pull?
Could it be the valves are kinda burnt out or what?
Thanks[/b]
ok, this sled doesn't have any valves to get burned. is this the first time you've started it for the year? did you do anything else when you changed the gaskets?
just a hint: any time you change those gaskets, u can usually use the old ones instead of replacing them. almost every sled like that i've worked on leaked. all you have to do is take the gaskets out, clean them up and get all the oil off them, and put a layer of 'ultra copper' silicone on them and reinstall them on the sled after you've cleaned up the block and manifold. any of the 'ultra' series of silicones by Permatex are better to use cuz they withstand higher temps. even the new gaskets should have the silicone put on them or eventually they will leak again!
anyways, my money is on the needles and seats leaking past and filing up the crankcase. an easy way to tell is to take out the three bolts that are in front of the engine, low in the block, and have a 10mm head. most of them can be loosened a few turns and will drain, but others have to be taken out. if you take them all the way out, you have to be careful to not lose the aluminum washers that are on there as well. about a teaspoon of oil/gas is normal and will always come out. however, if you have a seveer leak of the needles and seats, then you'll get up to a cup of gas out of the drain plugs. sometimes only several ounces, but there shouldn't be much more than a tablespoon full.
when this happens, it will be next to impossible to start the sled and will want to backfire like you describe and not run.
it is true that the chokes could be stuck as well so make sure you check them too. since it's the beginning of the season, it's not a bad idea to completely remove the carbs and clean them. also you can perform a leak test of the needles and seats then as well. good time to look at the intake sides of the pistons too when the carbs are off. exhaust side when you have the manifold off.
anyways, check these things out and keep in mind the basics: fuel, air, spark. not a bad idea to put in a new set of plugs while you're at it. if you need any more help or need to know how to service and sync the carbs, just ask. good luck. -Polaris Doc
Its not the first time it was started this year. It started fine at the begining. Then it got harder to start and sometimes would backfire. When i take the drain plugs off and will i have to fill the crankcase backup? The old gascets worn warn and burnt and riped so thats why i replaced them.ok, this sled doesn't have any valves to get burned. is this the first time you've started it for the year? did you do anything else when you changed the gaskets?
just a hint: any time you change those gaskets, u can usually use the old ones instead of replacing them. almost every sled like that i've worked on leaked. all you have to do is take the gaskets out, clean them up and get all the oil off them, and put a layer of 'ultra copper' silicone on them and reinstall them on the sled after you've cleaned up the block and manifold. any of the 'ultra' series of silicones by Permatex are better to use cuz they withstand higher temps. even the new gaskets should have the silicone put on them or eventually they will leak again!
anyways, my money is on the needles and seats leaking past and filing up the crankcase. an easy way to tell is to take out the three bolts that are in front of the engine, low in the block, and have a 10mm head. most of them can be loosened a few turns and will drain, but others have to be taken out. if you take them all the way out, you have to be careful to not lose the aluminum washers that are on there as well. about a teaspoon of oil/gas is normal and will always come out. however, if you have a seveer leak of the needles and seats, then you'll get up to a cup of gas out of the drain plugs. sometimes only several ounces, but there shouldn't be much more than a tablespoon full.
when this happens, it will be next to impossible to start the sled and will want to backfire like you describe and not run.
it is true that the chokes could be stuck as well so make sure you check them too. since it's the beginning of the season, it's not a bad idea to completely remove the carbs and clean them. also you can perform a leak test of the needles and seats then as well. good time to look at the intake sides of the pistons too when the carbs are off. exhaust side when you have the manifold off.
anyways, check these things out and keep in mind the basics: fuel, air, spark. not a bad idea to put in a new set of plugs while you're at it. if you need any more help or need to know how to service and sync the carbs, just ask. good luck. -Polaris Doc[/b]
Its not the first time it was started this year. It started fine at the begining. Then it got harder to start and sometimes would backfire. When i take the drain plugs off and will i have to fill the crankcase backup? The old gascets worn warn and burnt and riped so thats why i replaced them.[/b]
when you take the plugs out, you might want to put some rags down there or if you can fit it, a little cup to catch gas if it comes out. the crank cases on two strokes are meant to be dry. it's not like a four stroke that has a wet or dry sump. there will always be a wee little bit of fluid in the bottom of the case and sometimes nothing will come out. when you replace the screws, ensure you have that little aluminum washer on the bolt. tighten it snug, dont break it off.
how old is the gas? when was the last time you replaced the fuel filters? when was the last time you cleaned the carbs and had them syncronized? how about the compression; what does it read? let me know if you find anything when you take the case plugs out. start there first. good luck.
-Polaris Doc
I got this sled it runs beautifully but the right cylinder from front left from sitting on it is leaking oil out exhaust manifold what is the cause and fix it doesn't seem to be running incorrectly and has lots of power but that cylinder is much colder than others after running for awhileok, this sled doesn't have any valves to get burned. is this the first time you've started it for the year? did you do anything else when you changed the gaskets?
just a hint: any time you change those gaskets, u can usually use the old ones instead of replacing them. almost every sled like that i've worked on leaked. all you have to do is take the gaskets out, clean them up and get all the oil off them, and put a layer of 'ultra copper' silicone on them and reinstall them on the sled after you've cleaned up the block and manifold. any of the 'ultra' series of silicones by Permatex are better to use cuz they withstand higher temps. even the new gaskets should have the silicone put on them or eventually they will leak again!
anyways, my money is on the needles and seats leaking past and filing up the crankcase. an easy way to tell is to take out the three bolts that are in front of the engine, low in the block, and have a 10mm head. most of them can be loosened a few turns and will drain, but others have to be taken out. if you take them all the way out, you have to be careful to not lose the aluminum washers that are on there as well. about a teaspoon of oil/gas is normal and will always come out. however, if you have a seveer leak of the needles and seats, then you'll get up to a cup of gas out of the drain plugs. sometimes only several ounces, but there shouldn't be much more than a tablespoon full.
when this happens, it will be next to impossible to start the sled and will want to backfire like you describe and not run.
it is true that the chokes could be stuck as well so make sure you check them too. since it's the beginning of the season, it's not a bad idea to completely remove the carbs and clean them. also you can perform a leak test of the needles and seats then as well. good time to look at the intake sides of the pistons too when the carbs are off. exhaust side when you have the manifold off.
anyways, check these things out and keep in mind the basics: fuel, air, spark. not a bad idea to put in a new set of plugs while you're at it. if you need any more help or need to know how to service and sync the carbs, just ask. good luck. -Polaris Doc
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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