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Discussion Starter #1
so I just bought my first sled on friday and everything worked fine the seller started it first try after it had sit for a year. I then started it numerous times since but now it will not start. there is something weird with the throttle cables I think. All three carbs are working fine but it feels like there is resistance somewhere and the thumb lever does not return to its original position and keeps the throttle open part way. From the lever the cable goes to something like this

the top three cables go to the carbs and the fourth goes to something down below them that has a spring loaded arm that the cable is attached to that rotates when the cable is puled. I believe to open or close some thing like fuel or something but I couldn't follow any fuel lines down to it but it has three lines that run from the unknown device to all three carbs. If any of you are familiar with this sled and can help or need pictures I can email them to you. thank you for any help.
 

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your 3 main cables all go to the carbs, your other cable goes to your oil pump. I would say that either you oil pump arm is hitting on something, or one of your carbs are stuck open, and thats your resistance. If it will not start, I would say its in the carbs, assuming your safeties are still hooked up,,,,, pull your carbs and see that all the slides are working up and down properly. You could also have a bad cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the arm isnt hitting on anything and I have pulled 2 carbs and both worked fine but I ran out of daylight ( the sled is currently outside on a trailer) and will check the third tomorrow. is there any way of lubing the cable? Would that even help? Also how hard is it to replace a choke lever and the throttle cables?
 

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not hard to swap the cables at all,, you see them come through ebay faily often at a decent price. I have never tried to lube one, but if by chance you have a cable that is fraying (sp), lubing will not help.
 

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Like said above, if your throttle cable is binding replace it with new, adding lubricant will just gum it up and make things worse in cold weather. When replacing the cable you will have to adjust all the settings to get things back in proper sync. The oil pump housing has index marks showing where the arm should be at idle and at full throttle, and each carb needs to be adjusted so that all the slides lift in unison, open the full amount and close all the way down when the throttle is released. Check the online parts micro fische for some help in seeing the breakdown on the assemblies. Brown's
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks but the link didnt work. I figured there was some way to tell where it should be and I thought there would be some adjustment involved with the carbs due to the barrel adjusters on the throttle and choke cables. thatnks for all the help.
 

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thanks but the link didnt work. I figured there was some way to tell where it should be and I thought there would be some adjustment involved with the carbs due to the barrel adjusters on the throttle and choke cables. thatnks for all the help.[/b]
I had a typo in the link. It works now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for the link.
Alright so now when its warm out I can get it started with some throttle which by the way was just slack in the cable that was in the carbs. but I am waithing for the new choke lever to come should be here this week. the thing is when it starts I have to hold the throttle but it will not just idle. What do i do to fix this? Also What canI do that is either cheap or free to shed some weight off the sled?
 

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a carb sync is what I would do , hey its free...
put a 1/8th inch drill bit between your throttle block and lever to hold it partially open . take off the carb boots ( carbs still installed on motor ) back out your idle speed screws so the slides bottom out .loosen the barrel nut on top of the carb slides now one at a time put a finger on the carb slide and adjust barrel nut untill you just start to feel the slide move .back it off till it bottoms back out .do this to all 3 . now run idle speed screw in untill you feel the slide start to move and turn in 2&1/4 times on each. you can now remove drill bit and MAKE SURE that there is at least 3/32 movement in throttle lever before carbs start to open . now turn in the idle enrichment screws untill they LIGHTLY bottom out , back each one out 1&3/4 turns . put boots back on and give it a try with fresh plugs, adjust idle speed to 1500 rpm using the idle enrichment screws 1/8th turn at a time on each .in to raise the speed and out to lower . please report back afterward . Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #11
a carb sync is what I would do , hey its free...
put a 1/8th inch drill bit between your throttle block and lever to hold it partially open . take off the carb boots ( carbs still installed on motor ) back out your idle speed screws so the slides bottom out .loosen the barrel nut on top of the carb slides now one at a time put a finger on the carb slide and adjust barrel nut untill you just start to feel the slide move .back it off till it bottoms back out .do this to all 3 . now run idle speed screw in untill you feel the slide start to move and turn in 2&1/4 times on each. you can now remove drill bit and MAKE SURE that there is at least 3/32 movement in throttle lever before carbs start to open . now turn in the idle enrichment screws untill they LIGHTLY bottom out , back each one out 1&3/4 turns . put boots back on and give it a try with fresh plugs, adjust idle speed to 1500 rpm using the idle enrichment screws 1/8th turn at a time on each .in to raise the speed and out to lower . please report back afterward . Mark[/b]
I'm sorry I'm very new to this. are the carb boots the ones from the air box? and which screw is the idle enrichment? I know the one on top of the carb is the throttle and there is one lower on the side that comes from the choke. also how the throttle lever is designed there is about 1/4 inch between it and the block no matter what due to the angle the cable comes out to the lever. also the plugs are almost brand new there were installed by the last owner this summer because the sled had sat for a full year. Thank you so much for all the help guys.
 

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being very new to this,,, we can help you, but you really need to get a book on the sled. You can pick them up on ebay and learn quite a bit from it. It will be much much easier to get it figured out and running with a book and our help for questions you come across. I am not trying to put you down or anything, only offering advice. I myself have played with sleds for years and still own a manual on every sled I own. Good luck,,,
Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thansk for all the help guys it runs perfect now and I got the book from the previous owner. after the carb sync it runs better than before.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
hope I helped . :thumbsup:[/b]
You definitely helped after I did the carb sync it fired up with only half a pull on the starter. Then once i got the rpm's to 1500 it runs a lot better than before when it actually ran. thanks a ton.
 

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You definitely helped after I did the carb sync it fired up with only half a pull on the starter. Then once i got the rpm's to 1500 it runs a lot better than before when it actually ran. thanks a ton.[/b]
its a great feeling fixing your own stuff isnt it lol . 1/2 a pull is pretty good ! Mark
 
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